2002 with NV5600 - Clutch bad at 65K
2002 with NV5600 - Clutch bad at 65K
I am getting near the end of my 70K warranty on my drivetrain, so I took my 2002 HO 2wd to the Dodge house to get my oil leak fixed (turns out I had both a leaking main seal and oil pan gasket). While the transmission was off, they noticed that my clutch was getting worn and was nearing need of replacement. It wasn't shot yet, but some of the grooves in the disc were worn partially away and the pressure plate had some hot spots on it.
This is the heaviest truck I have ever had, but it works less than any truck I have ever had. The only thing that do I that is hard on it is the fact that I drive in suburbia a lot. Lots of starts. I generally use 2nd gear to start when empty. Should I be using 1st? Is less than 100K miles typical for a lightly used truck like this?
Unfortunately, I am replacing the clutch with another Dodge unit since I wasn't planning on this expense right now. The labor is free since the tranny is already off and I've gotten them to give me some relief on the price of the parts, but I'm wondering if I'll be doing this again at 150K miles.
Reading over the forums, I do see the suggestion to not tough the throttle until the clutch is all the way out. Does this apply when loaded as well? Perhaps I just need to change my technique. Still, I'm not used to getting less than 125K out of a clutch.
Thanks for any thoughts,
Tad
This is the heaviest truck I have ever had, but it works less than any truck I have ever had. The only thing that do I that is hard on it is the fact that I drive in suburbia a lot. Lots of starts. I generally use 2nd gear to start when empty. Should I be using 1st? Is less than 100K miles typical for a lightly used truck like this?
Unfortunately, I am replacing the clutch with another Dodge unit since I wasn't planning on this expense right now. The labor is free since the tranny is already off and I've gotten them to give me some relief on the price of the parts, but I'm wondering if I'll be doing this again at 150K miles.
Reading over the forums, I do see the suggestion to not tough the throttle until the clutch is all the way out. Does this apply when loaded as well? Perhaps I just need to change my technique. Still, I'm not used to getting less than 125K out of a clutch.
Thanks for any thoughts,
Tad
ouch
ours just went at 78K...not the same year truck though
if ya ask me as long as your not riding the clutch there is NO reason for a clutch to go that soon
we had a Napa clutch put in and it turns out its the same clutch......hope we have better luck this time......
ours just went at 78K...not the same year truck thoughif ya ask me as long as your not riding the clutch there is NO reason for a clutch to go that soon
we had a Napa clutch put in and it turns out its the same clutch......hope we have better luck this time......
Interesting update: I just got the truck back and the clutch predal needs about 1/2 the pressure that it ever did, the clutch engagement is much more sure and crisp than it ever was, and it just generally feels and shifts better than it ever has. Apparently something WAS wrong with the original clutch from the beginning. Does anyone have any idea what that might be? I am going to meet with the district rep in a couple of weeks (I have the old parts in my posession). Of course getting them to warranty a wear part is hard, but it's worth a try, especially if anyone can help me be specific about what might have been wrong since the beginning.
Thanks
Tad
Thanks
Tad
Originally Posted by TXTad
I generally use 2nd gear to start when empty. Should I be using 1st? Is less than 100K miles typical for a lightly used truck like this?
Reading over the forums, I do see the suggestion to not tough the throttle until the clutch is all the way out. Does this apply when loaded as well?
Reading over the forums, I do see the suggestion to not tough the throttle until the clutch is all the way out. Does this apply when loaded as well?
2. Empty or loaded (towing - see signature), I ease out the clutch until it's fully engaged, then roll into the throttle. The governor function in the ECM will keep the engine from stalling - it automatically adds more fuel as the engine tries to slow down. If I do otherwise, the drivetrain goes into a bucking, jerking fit.
Rusty
Oh, I doubt it too. I know that a new clutch will feel different, but I have always thought that the clutch pedal was heavy, now it's not, and that the transmission shifted like crap. Now it doesn't. Something is different besides just a new clutch and throwout bearing.
Tad
Tad
Only reason i comment on the NEW clutch feeling different compared to the old is from my personal experience.
Plus new parts have certain refinements built into them that will make new more user friendly in most cases than the old.
Plus new parts have certain refinements built into them that will make new more user friendly in most cases than the old.
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I think most people get premature clutch wear in these trucks from operator error. I think it is crucial to use the clutch like an on/off switch and not touching the accelerator pedal until the clutch is fully engaged either from a stop or during normal shifting while driving. Everybody I have ever let drive my truck that are not Diesel manual transmission owners butcher shifting real bad. I always explain don't touch the go pedal until you have let the clutch out all the way, no need to slip it like in a gasser. Just my opinion, Eric
There was a really long post here not that long ago about starting off in 1st or 2nd. The arguement was that starts in 2nd were harder on the clutch. There were pretty good arguements back and forth, I could see how each side was right. Myself, I start in 1st about 90% of the time. I've got 3.55s so it helps. I don't slip it at all(I can't afford a clutch right now) don't do too much hot doggin either. Maybe you just had a defective part(presure plate)? Without abuse I think these things can go on for quite a while. I've heard 200+. I'm at a hair over 100k on mine and I'm pretty sure it's the orig. clutch, still holding strong.
Originally Posted by ellerman
I think most people get premature clutch wear in these trucks from operator error. I think it is crucial to use the clutch like an on/off switch and not touching the accelerator pedal until the clutch is fully engaged either from a stop or during normal shifting while driving. Everybody I have ever let drive my truck that are not Diesel manual transmission owners butcher shifting real bad. I always explain don't touch the go pedal until you have let the clutch out all the way, no need to slip it like in a gasser. Just my opinion, Eric
BUT theres also no reason for a clutch to go at 65K--78K even IF you were driving with the gas a little sooner than you NEED it.....they should be able to stand up longer than that.
unless your towing then you better drive it like a truck NOT a stinkin' mitsu Evo!

'sides you would have to really drop the clutch and slam on the gas to have a clutch go at 60K....wouldnt ya???
What provides the clamping force on the clutch disk? What happens if one of the levers or springs fail and it looses clamping force? Is that user error. No Period. NOTtrying to be an edit but I've seen that. I've also seen someone buy a $65,000 car not knowing how to drive a stick and obliterated it in 2000 miles, got a new clutch and did same thing again. That is user error. There are a lot of variables that can go on. - Max
Last edited by wannadiesel; Jun 8, 2006 at 09:27 PM. Reason: symbols to evade censor


