JyRO

Guys,

I hate to start a new thread, because there is a wealth of info on this sensor that I've searched and read.

I've got the year model truck that has the crank p.s. and the cam p.s. I am replacing the crank p.s. Last night I removed the starter, and the bracket from the sensor.

But I cannot budge the sensor. The only thread I found that mentioned fighting the sensor mentioned "soaking" the sensor. I don't know what they're soaking it with (unless it's motor oil, but they never said) and how exactly would you soak it. I don't care to have engine oil all over the garage floor.

But, the most important thing is, my truck is out of service until I can get this sensor out! Help!

I've heard I can drill and tap and pull it out, but man that sounds like a PITA. I tried working it loose, rotating pulling. I sent PM's to 3 of the guys from the thread I was reading, but that thread was 2 years old. They haven't responded. Those guys may not play on here much. I can't wait for their response.

Like the thread I was reading: CPS: 1 JyRO: 0

Thanks.

bentwings

Try any kind of penetrating oil. Let it soak in and get a good hold of it. It's just plastic and if you bust it off it's going to be a real PIA to get it out. Don't forget the tone ring is on the crankshaft right below it about 1 inch in. If you damage that you are in even more trouble.

Sometimes just a light tapping with a small hammer on the end can break the rust loose. Usually just flexing the thing back and forth will eventually break the rust loose. Be patient. It took me a half hour to get the first one out.

If you do bust it off don't drill any more than you have to and try not to mark up the bore or it will leak oil. Today I'd use my Dremel with the flex handle and a 1/8 carbide point and go after the side wall so I could get a small screw driver in and flex it. Should pop right out.

Do put some oil or grease or never-seize on the new one befor you put it in.

JyRO

WD-40?

- JyRO

bent valves

Here is my story of the CPS replacement. First I unplugged the wire to it, and then removed the 10 mm hex bolt holding it to the block. I was able to rotate it with my fingers but it was not coming out. Spraying it down with penetrating oil I next removed the dipstick clamp. Why Cummins blocked this sensor with the dipstick tube and starter makes me wonder what they were thinking. At last I was ready to try and remove it. Fishing my arms up around the front drive shaft I tried to twist and pull but got nowhere. There is not enough room to pry with a standard size screwdriver so a small one was used. The sensor moved out 1/16” and I could no longer twist it. It became clear that this sensor would meet its death when I reached for the channel locks. With the first twist the plastic wiring connector cracked but I was able to rotate it. This went on for about an hour trying various pry tools. I ended up bending a cheap screwdriver to 45* at the end and this allowed more leverage. After another hour the old broken sensor was extracted.

Now it was time to insert the new sensor. I first cleaned the hole in the block and lubed the new sensor for an easy fit. HA! The new sensor got stuck about 1/8” in. I had to sand the plastic using 220 grit paper to reduce its diameter enough to be a slip fit. Use engine oil on the sensor also.

Any kind of penetrating oil, WD-40 or PB blaster.

Rockrawler

I ended up brakeing the whole end off mine, driled a small hole in the center screwed a drywall screw in to it then used a flat nail bar with lots of presure before it poped out. Clean the hole and coat with never seize when you install the new one

george7941

I did not have any problem at all removing mine nor did I have any difficulty putting the new one in. The old one had been in place for about four years. In my case it helped that the starter is on the passenger side, I did not have to remove anything at all to get at the crank sensor.

JyRO

THAT'S IT! I'M DONE! Sensor - 3, JyRO - 0. I consider that a strike out and need to go sit back on the bench.

All I'm doing is making it worse. And I'm going to make it real bad if I don't stop. There's probably nobody close enough who could actually get this thing out, but I'll give someone $100 if they can get this stupid thing out.

Otherwise, should I put the connector back on it, put the starter on, and take it to the local Cummins dealer?

I didn't realize this, but if Cummins goes by their own word, this should be covered under the powertrain warranty. I'm less than 8 years, and less than 136k miles.

I need HELP!

JyRO

I've had a few hours to settle down and got to wondering. If I dropped the oil pan, would I have enough access to the inside of the sensor to knock it out of the block from the inside?

george7941

I am puzzled as to why the sensor is so badly stuck, after all it is only plastic and a rubber O-ring. It is not as if we have a metal-on-metal seizure here. The previous suggestion about a screw in the centre and a prybar should work. Of course a screw in the centre makes the sensor inoperative and I don't think your engine will run at all without the sensor and then it is tow truck time. Some tough decisions ahead for you. Good luck.

The first step is to get the sensor rotating in the hole in the block. Have you been able to do that?

I believe warranty on the engine is handled by Dodge and not Cummins since Dodge buys the engines from Cummins without any warranty.

JyRO

Yessir, I've got the sensor to rotate in the hole, it just will not come out. Must be lots of rust built up in there preventing the o-ring from sliding by. My sensor may already be inoperable, the connector broke at the L-shape of the sensor.

Does anyone know if dropping the oil pan will give me enough access to knock the sensor off from the inside?

vzdude

Use the drywall screw that you have put in and a small slide hammer. I've had to do that on several to get them out! A little dent puller slide hammer, and once I had to use a 5 lb slide hammer with some washers on the drywall screw, but it did come out!

JyRO

About the drywall screw;

1) Would you drill into the center of the sensor? I ask, because the wires likely run down the center and my make it difficult to drill there.

2) Would you break of the connector L to make drilling easier?

Thanks.

george7941

Since I have never had to drill into a crank sensor, this is my uninformed answer to your Question 1. Any wires/busbars inside the sensor will be copper which is very soft and will not hinder drilling into the centre of the sensor.

george7941

One more suggestion. If you have a small puller bridge then you will be able to use it on the drywall screw to pull the sensor out. You will be less likely to strip the threads holding the screw in with a steady pressure.

vzdude

Most of the time I just screw it in without drilling right in the middle. Haven't had it NOT work yet! Good luck!