Does the front axle have a sliding collar vacuum disconnect or is the front axle truly "solid"?

 

Whether or not it has the vacuum disconnect depends on when it was built. This TSB has the dates and part numbers:

http://www.dodgeram.info/tsb/2002/03-004-02.htm

 

An easy way to tell which one you've got is to look for the axle vent. The early models have the vent on the right side of the axle. The revised axle has the vent directly on the differential cover.

 

Anyone have any opinions or expirience as to which design is better? Any good reason for Dodge making the change?

My 02 was built in Oct, 01 - so I assume I have the disconnect.

Rowland

 

IMHO I would rather NOT have an axle disconnect. It's just a weak link in the chain. I have personally seen several instances where there was a failure (vacuum leak, wire severed, collar binding, ect) and the unlucky soul is stuck in something that he should have been able drive out of. One Exploder, couldn't figure out why he kept going in the ditch trying to follow my Cherokee in a snow storm .
Fate seems to be on my side.
I see no accuator motor on the either side of the drive shaft.
It was built 4-02

 

Perfect world would we'd still have manually locking hubs.

Late 2002's don't have the disconnect.

Front driveshaft is turning all the time, lowering MPG a little, 1-2ish.
(I pulled mine off a year ago, chasing down a vibration, ran a tank of fuel through and saw an increase of 2mpg, sure not all of that is just the driveshaft, so figured 1-2)

Also putting more wear on parts I would think.


You shouldn't have to crawl under to tell, as Commatoze said, the newer, un-CAD version has the vent coming out of the front cover instead of the axle.


phox

 

Always assumed I had earlier version, but... Changed my Transfer Case Oil at 35,000 miles (assuming I was being overly cautious) and was surprised - very black and some burnt smell! I use 4x4 maybe 5 miles @ week - making deliveries to farmers & construction sites. Was shocked the fluid showed so much wear??

 

I guess there are tradeoffs involved in most things. I'd agree that there are fewer things to fail without the CAD, although I've had two previous half-ton Dodges with CADs and never had either of them fail. I do think the CAD-less one I have now *feels* better, more mechanical and positive, when I put it in 4wd.

On the other hand, who wouldn't like to get even 1-2 more mpg?

 

I would rather HAVE the disconnect.

Especially with the 2Lo modification, it makes it REAL easy to snake a heavy trailer into a tight spot.
Not to mention the fuel savings, and less wear and tear.

This is one of the biggest reasons I will NOT get a 3rd Gen truck, with it's locked up front axle...and excessive drivetrain vibrations.

I haven't had mine fail in 3 Rocky Mountain winters...

 

Anyone esle find black oil in trasnfer case at 35,000 miles or less? I'm assuming it was factory oil - changed it out for Amsoil. With light 4x4 operation how far can I reasonably expect to go between changes?
Rowland

 

I'm going to do mine, If it's black or yucky, I'll change it again in 6 months. I'll put it on a semi-annual schedule till it changes reasoably clean. ATF is cheap.
I did the same thing with my jeep, after the third change it started changing clean, now it's on an annual schedule. The jeep t/c has a full-time setting that gets used alot in the winter. shifting and operation was never a problem, but it is noticably smoother.

I wonder if our beasts are shipped with a break-in oil from the factory?

Everyone seems to be using a little Amsoil in everthing, maybe I'll give that a try, I've heard nothing but good things.

 

I had to rebuild my front driveline @ 15K with my lift as the angle was just too much. For $180 I was able to get a bulletproof dline that will never fail, even with the angle. A small price to pay for reliability...........................LE

 

LE,
I couldn't find a pic of your rig. How much lift?
My experience with rebuilt drivelines has been great variances. I shoot the zerks on mine twice a year. It seems that most my drive lines last 40k, with the occasional one doing twice that. My opinion is THAT is the one that was assembled and balanced correctly. Still on the jeep (no axle disconnects, synthetics), seen a lot of 4x4 action, pulls a boat.
Driveshafts are alot more complicated than they seem. I like to remove mine completely, examine for damage and check for uniform tightness in the cups, also lets me wiggle them when greasing. Now, after reading your post I might pull it at have the balace checked (R&Red 60k ago).
$180 is cheap compared 4wheeling into something 2wd cant get you out of.

 

I feel the same as roadranger. I love the CAD on my truck, especially with the 2 lo set up. Makes boat lanches/retreivals, trailer moving soooooooo much easier. And I am not happy with the new axle design. All I hear about is vibration problems. That alone will stop me from getting a new truck.