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01 47RE R&R question

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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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01 47RE R&R question

Well my Goerend is on its way to me . I wanted to ask you gear heads when removeing an reinstalling do you pull the transfer case or have it on there ? An also I was womdering if you have a way of torqueing the bolts that mount the flex plate to the converter ? Also how do you turn the motor too install those bolts ? Thanks
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 12:25 AM
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Pull the TC off first, especially if your doing the repair on the garage floor, you can make a frame spreader with an old sissor jack, and weld a piece of pipe on it that way you can spread the frame to get the cross member out, otherwise you gotta beat the death out of it.

remove tin cover on bell housing and use a screwdriver to rotate the engine,screwdrive blade against flywheel teeth, and pry against bellhousing. works easily, little slow, but there is no rush. another hint is to mark the TC with marker near one bolt hole, so you know when you have been around once(installing)

use a 3/8 drv torque wrench to tighten TC bolts
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 08:16 AM
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Thanks nickg did not know about the frame spreading . Question how heavy is that t/c case do you use a jack to assist ? Do you remember the torque on those bolts?
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 11:17 AM
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The TC is about 100 lbs.
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 01:03 PM
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I,ve been under it trying to get my game plain down . I've got access to a commercial trans jack like used on class 8 road tractors . So I can proubly shore it up with some wood an get it off there fairly easy . An now I know what it weighs . The guy at goerend said they made a bracket too bolt up useing the the bolt holes that cross member uses then its solid with the jack . If that could be done I suppose A guy could leave the transfer case on it just have to check it out when I get the jack . Thanks
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 01:39 AM
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I just unbolt the tc, slide it off the tranny onto my chest then roll it on the the ground. (this method when rolling around on a creeper)

when on a hoist, one man can easily man handle it, 2 makes it easier

think the weight is closer to 75, could be wrong though
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 06:36 AM
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I found it easier to take the t/case off first, its not that heavy or hard to take out and once it's out the auto balances pretty good on the pan. I used an ATV lift and some ratchet straps. Have fun! Make sure you have some good wobble extensions to get to the upper bell housing bolts.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 08:21 AM
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Thanks gorms I picked up the trans jack yesterday but that atv jack is a ideal .
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 11:24 AM
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Getting started an was wondering why do you have to pull the starter to remove this trans ? The access cover on the passenger side is the only way to get to the coverter bolts isn,t it ?
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by travelingman
Getting started an was wondering why do you have to pull the starter to remove this trans ? The access cover on the passenger side is the only way to get to the coverter bolts isn,t it ?
Nope, there is no reason at all to remove the starter.
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 01:01 PM
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Thank you sure glad I stopped for dinner an read this . I just could not see what it was going to help but everything I read said to do it must have been for gas burners. Next little question does those linkages just pop out of there brackets or is there a trick to that ? Hope to have this thing on the floor by supper. An i'm assumeing you guys are draing that transfer case before you pull it ? I'm going to put a front seal in it while i've got it out, an a rear main in the motor don't want to be doing this again any time soon . Keep a eye on me guys may have more questions before the days out,thanks a million .
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 10:15 PM
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Yes, the transfer case linkage pops out of the green plastic grommet, sometimes with a bit of a struggle. I always drain the t-case first then stretch a rubber glove over the rear output, to keep that little bit of fluid from running into my armpits.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 09:03 AM
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Well did not get it on the floor all the little stuff takes time an i,m working by myself . I've got everything unhooked an opened it up too drain over night can't have any fluid for shipping back to Goerend . Did you take the line s off the engine mounted cooler looks like they might get in the way an I don't want to bend them . I've got this thing up on some pretty tall jack stands but the worse part for me has been working off the creeper . Its not up high enough for me too set straight up an thats made this old man use muscles that i'd forgot about . But the cheapest quote I got was $ 530 so I guess its worth it. I read it said to mark the torque converter in relation to the flex palte but since i'm installing a new flex plate don't guess thats nessasary,other than seeing how it lined up, an marking my new one ?
Hows the weather in Alberta just noticec where you are Torquefan ?
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by travelingman
Well did not get it on the floor all the little stuff takes time an i,m working by myself . I've got everything unhooked an opened it up too drain over night can't have any fluid for shipping back to Goerend . Did you take the line s off the engine mounted cooler looks like they might get in the way an I don't want to bend them . I've got this thing up on some pretty tall jack stands but the worse part for me has been working off the creeper . Its not up high enough for me too set straight up an thats made this old man use muscles that i'd forgot about . But the cheapest quote I got was $ 530 so I guess its worth it. I read it said to mark the torque converter in relation to the flex palte but since i'm installing a new flex plate don't guess thats nessasary,other than seeing how it lined up, an marking my new one ?
Hows the weather in Alberta just noticec where you are Torquefan ?
Yeah, I know the pain you are talking about, working on a creeper isn't much fun wrestling with heavy parts. Good idea comparing your flex plate to the old one and just make sure they line up the same before installation. One other thing I do is go around and install all the converter bolts just slightly loose, then go around again and tighten them all once they are all in. I had a problem once lining up the last bolt because I had all the rest tight already.

It's pretty mild here lately, little skiff of snow this morning, but hovering right around the freezing point. Where are you at?
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 09:39 AM
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I'm in East tennessee real mild winter this year. Good ideal not tightening the bolts until all are installed . When I get get the new one bolted to the bell houseing then I should be able too move that converter about 1/8 th inch correct before bolting it to to the plate ? When you flushed your coolers an lines did you use the flush in the aresol can ? I got one from Napa but the fitting on the end isn't really made to fit any of the lines . Did you just put the line down in the tubeing an go for it I suppose that will work but it want create any pressure that way, an the front line is pressure rear return right? I checked something else last night band adjustment . I payed a shop to do that about a year ago an thought I would check there work . Well the front one was backed out about 1 an 3/4 turns close enough but the rear was maybe 2 turns the book says 3 . I hope that wasn't what was causeing my trimbling shifts what I was thinking was torque converter shudder an others had said might be OD clutches slipping . Oh well to late now but I did get a education on band ADJ an even though my pan an magnet were clean from frequent service its got 153000 mi on it . An I just bought the camper an did not want to start out worrying about those shakey shifts .
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