When you get tired of trying to get the thick gunk off with little success, with the engine dry and cool, spray everything lightly with kerosene. Let it soak for a while (hours) re-wetting the thick spots occasionally. Don't put so much on that it runs right off and causes more harm to the water system. Just enough to wet the gunk. Umm, . . .. . . NO SMOKING?

Then let the high pressure spray rock!

You may find it a good idea to afterward spray everything lightly with some WD40 or the like, don't, rust will set in quickly.

 

other than the mess in my driveway, i'm not too concerned about getting the outside of the engine clean. That will be relatively easy I think, compared to getting the inside of the engine clean without making things worse.

 

Ya, i did, and tried the same thing (jack the rear in as hi as i could, let it set over night)
all ya can do is clean clean, tell you got is as good as ya can and put it back together and start sucking the oil off from the top of the radiator(take the t-stat out.)

run it, shut it of and suck the oil of the top. Top of the radiator and run it again!..and again, and again, exc.

Its a long slow process.............that you won't want to do again so REPLACE THE OIL COOLER WITH A NEW ONE. whether you find it to be bad or not!

When i pulled mine out i couldn't make it leak(but replaced it any ways) after words i put i in a hot bucket of soapy water..........and then found it to be leaking!

Spend the $$$$ now for a new one and be happy!!!!!!.......later! just my .o2 worth

 

hmmm...

i've ordered a clean used one off ebay, and i was planning on pressure testing it before using.

$400 for a new one would require a credit union loan at this point!

should have the old one off today.

 

Make sure you us regulated air pressures,less then 50 psi or you may make a good... used..... one? become bad.

Do not pass go, and go back to the start of the game.

 

yeah i figured regulating the air would be essential..

 

Well, I got mine off and it LOOKS fine anyway. Still pondering how to pressure test it. Wish I could afford a new one... but I'm already $600 into this mess, and I still am missing a couple of things I need. of course, that $600 includes the $120 I threw away on the shop looking at it, and $135 for a new belt tensioner that I needed anyway.

 

So my brand new cummins service manual tells me to test the thing at a minimum of 65 PSI and a max of 75. There is also a part number for a kit that lets you hook the air up. I am going to call my local cummins distributor tomorrow and see what that kit costs. Might be easier than trying to make something that would hold 65 psi.

When I was 18 and had my first job in an engine building shop, one of my jobs as low guy on the totem pole was pressure testing heads. We had all kinds of rubber plugs and blocking plates to cover up all the coolant passages and then we would drop the head in a drum full of water and shoot the air to it, looking for bubbles. So I had this chevy Vega head (remember Vegas? ) in the tank and I thought I saw some bubbles so I gave it a little more air. Still wasn't sure, so I leaned down closer over the tank and shot a little more air in, forgetting that I was on unregulated air. Well, I saw some bubbles but they stopped before I could pinpoint them, so I gave it another shot... and KABOOM! I must have been all the way up to 100 PSI when it went. Blew the freeze plug out of the end of the head, emptied about 30 gallons of water in a column straight up to the ceiling, with me leaning right into it of course, and gave the steel drum a big old bulge in the bottom.

Spent the rest of the day cleaning up water from every corner, and wiping down the old man's precious and gigantic South Bend lathe, which had gotten drenched.

 

That's funny! i can just picture it!

We all learn from our mistakes.