Wonderful (broke bolts)
I recently removed the 1.5" body lift from my heap. While unbolting the bed from the frame, I managed to wring off three bolts (three of the four to the rear of the axle / around the spare tire).
Pretty-much can't get to them good enough to drill out from the bottom. Can't get to the other side at all (Blind tinner-man's nuts welded to the inside of the rails that run from side to side of the actual bed).
. . . . .
Perhaps I can make a 1/2" hole through the bed to expose the tinner-man nuts and drill them out?
Perhaps make a new hole adjacent to the broke ones, install replacement bolts/washers and be done with it?
. . . suggestions, comments, rude remarks?
Pretty-much can't get to them good enough to drill out from the bottom. Can't get to the other side at all (Blind tinner-man's nuts welded to the inside of the rails that run from side to side of the actual bed).
. . . . .
Perhaps I can make a 1/2" hole through the bed to expose the tinner-man nuts and drill them out?
Perhaps make a new hole adjacent to the broke ones, install replacement bolts/washers and be done with it?
. . . suggestions, comments, rude remarks?
If you havea welder, mig works best.
Turn the bed over, and place a small bead on the "bolt portion" left in the nut. Then place a new nut over top of that bead, not small bead. and weld the new nut fast to the old broken off bolt. The heat of the welder and the fact that now there is no "holding" power of the original bolt, it should back right out.
I had to do 3 of my broken exhaust bolts in the head this way and it works great.
Turn the bed over, and place a small bead on the "bolt portion" left in the nut. Then place a new nut over top of that bead, not small bead. and weld the new nut fast to the old broken off bolt. The heat of the welder and the fact that now there is no "holding" power of the original bolt, it should back right out.
I had to do 3 of my broken exhaust bolts in the head this way and it works great.
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