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Will not run after fuel filter changed

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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 08:43 PM
  #31  
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Hey pal, that Baldwin filter I use is a BF788. It does not have the water drain on the bottom. Some may find that a little disconcerting, I just change it every oil change.
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 09:32 PM
  #32  
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Ok boss !!! I'm askin I'm askin ...
Went to NAPA to get new center o-ring... Turns out they could match it up for $8. Ended up getting a new Donaldson #P55-0587 (fleetguard FS1221) fuel filter with center o-ring for $15...

So tomorrow morning I'm gonna install the Donaldson filter...

Are these step correct ?
1)tighten threaded stud with large screwdriver
2)install new center o-ring after it is lubed
3)fill new filter with fresh fuel, lube gasket and spin on
4)tighten 3/4 turn with wrench
5)crack #4 injector and crank engine until diesel spurts out... Tighten injector
6)crank engine until she fires and hold throttle about half open until she smooths out and then let her idle a bit

If this does not work am I looking at a lift pump? I have no way of checking fuel pressure at the moment
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 09:34 PM
  #33  
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Thanks hillbilly... I got a few filter numbers and will probably be using Donaldson filters as this is what local NAPA stocks ... Thanks for checking the number
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Old Jan 15, 2016 | 10:04 PM
  #34  
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You're welcome, they are good filters as well. The steps you have listed should work. keep in mind the engine could fire while you are cracking the injector line.
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 07:49 AM
  #35  
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youll still have air in it if you don't open the bleeder.
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 07:43 PM
  #36  
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Ok fellows ... Got the sermon ready for tomorrow morning... Plowed driveway with quad as we got about 8" snow last night... Finally got to the dodge this evening...

Installed new fuel filter and new center o-ring (lubed them with Vaseline) ... Filter was filled to the brim with fresh diesel... Cracked #4 injector and cranked until fuel was spurting out ... Tightened injector and cranked her till the battery almost died (30sec. intervals) ... She was coughing but no fire??? Put the trickle charge on overnight.

I cannot hear air sipping anymore ... The LP lever pumps freely (never builds resistance...as I think it would) ...

Am I looking at a new LP?
Should I crack #2 injector and work backwards on each one until each has fuel?
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 08:12 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Ol-dodge1992
Ok fellows ... Got the sermon ready for tomorrow morning... Plowed driveway with quad as we got about 8" snow last night... Finally got to the dodge this evening...

Installed new fuel filter and new center o-ring (lubed them with Vaseline) ... Filter was filled to the brim with fresh diesel... Cracked #4 injector and cranked until fuel was spurting out ... Tightened injector and cranked her till the battery almost died (30sec. intervals) ... She was coughing but no fire??? Put the trickle charge on overnight.

I cannot hear air sipping anymore ... The LP lever pumps freely (never builds resistance...as I think it would) ...

Am I looking at a new LP?
Should I crack #2 injector and work backwards on each one until each has fuel?
well, i'm far too lazy to go back and read 3 pages of posts, so i'll probably repeat whats already been said. but you need to install the fuel filter full of fuel as you said you did. then bump the key over until you have resistance on the lift pump lever. even if the diaphragm is bad, it will have resistance on the lever once it's sitting on a high spot on the camshaft. if the diaphragm is bad, your crank case would likely be full of diesel fuel, so lets just say it's good. once you have resistance, crack the bleeder loose in the center of the banjo bolt above the fuel filter. now pump the lift pump lever about 47 times until you have a steady stream of diesel and no air. now tighten that bleeder screw and start the truck.

turning the truck over that much will not only drain your battery, but it will burn up your starter real quick! ask me how i know.
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 08:14 PM
  #38  
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in addition, DO NOT CRACK OPEN THE INJECTORS!!!
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 08:17 PM
  #39  
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My last Lp the lever didnt work from the day it was new. I'd bleed all the injectors, one at a time of it was trying to start.
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 08:24 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Hillbilly66
My last Lp the lever didnt work from the day it was new. I'd bleed all the injectors, one at a time of it was trying to start.
Sorry, but I hope the OP doesn't read this and run to replace his lift pump. My bet is that it wasn't on the high spot of the cam lobe.
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 10:04 PM
  #41  
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Ok so jfounder says that if the diaphragm in LP is shot there will be fuel in crank case oil ... If I pull the dipstick what will it look like if fuel is present?

Is fuel in the oil a sure sign of needing to replace LP?
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 07:37 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Ol-dodge1992
Ok so jfounder says that if the diaphragm in LP is shot there will be fuel in crank case oil ... If I pull the dipstick what will it look like if fuel is present?

Is fuel in the oil a sure sign of needing to replace LP?
what would be better is if you bumped your engine over until you feel resistance on the lift pump lever, then cracked the bleeder screw open and pumped said lever. if you have fuel coming out, your lift pump is fine.

times like these is also when a fuel pressure gauge comes in handy. great troubleshooting tool!
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 08:28 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by j.fonder
in addition, DO NOT CRACK OPEN THE INJECTORS!!!
Why are you yelling at him ?? He said he turned his hearing aids up...
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 08:35 AM
  #44  
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From: Montucky
Originally Posted by j_martin
For clarity, the IP is the injection pump. The lift pump is the pump behind the fuel filter.

The banjo bolt on the fuel filter exit has a 10mm bleed screw in it. Geno's sells a banjo bolt with a 1/8" pipe thread hole in it. That is ideal for hooking up a fuel gauge. If you crack the bleeder screw and operate the lift pump, either with the lever or cranking the engine, it should spray lots of fuel at you.

Anyway, it's looking at this point like it is not getting fuel. Either the lift pump is bad or there is a new leak between the lift pump and the tank sucking air, or the tank is empty.

The IP is likely OK. However, it does have a pickup pump in it which is adequate when this IP is used on much smaller engines, like a VW Rabbit. (yep, same pump). If the lift pump were bad, it would still run a little, which fits the symptoms. It is, however, very hard on the IP.
In agreement with j martin. When my lps have failed in the past ive been able to get rig started by cracking injectors and help from someone else at the controls. Last time I was even able to drive around, but rig would not stay running without help. Change lp (simple and fairly inexpensive) and be done with it.
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 09:56 AM
  #45  
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could someone please post a pic of the bleeder so we can get a confirmation of use
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