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What to do with my Brakes

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Old 09-22-2017, 09:43 PM
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Thanks for all of the input guys. I am looking through the Hydroboost threads. Trying to decide between second Gen and GM set up.

This post might make you roll your eyes but I am ordering from Canada and cannot confirm anything over the counter. Any input would be much appreciated.

I am looking at these calipers on RockAuto:
RAYBESTOS RC4158
RAYBESTOS RC4157
They state Casting Number 2238451 or 2238452, is this on my existing calipers? I cannot see any markings on mine. Also, they have the same part numbers with the Suffix SS,does this stand for Stainless Steel? If so, what part would be different?

Do you think it is worth while replacing the hydraulic brake hoses with braided?

As for upgrading the Shoes, RAYBESTOS 314PG are under the W250 but state Rear; w/ 12" X 3" Brakes, are these the shoes I need? How do I know I have 12" shoes without pulling the brakes apart?

I will likely have more questions as I find more info. Thanks in advance for your help guys!
Old 09-23-2017, 01:10 AM
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Those are it, the 12"x3" shoes. 314PG sounds very familiar as a part number.
When you open your drums up, you should(unless someone already converted over to 3" prior to you taking ownership)see 2 1/2" wide shoes. The drums for the 3" and 2 1/2" shoes are the same. But, having said that, you cannot just slap the 3" ones on there. If you run your fingernail across the width of your drums inside, you'll feel an edge, scored by the 2 1/2" shoes. You'll either have to have your drums turned by a shop, or just purchase new drums and be done with it. Stick with the raybestos drums if you buy new.

As far as switching over to stainless braided brake lines, that there is a no brainier, especially if you're still running the original 25+ year old rubber hoses. Those stainless ones will last you a long time. Pricey, but you get what you pay for. If you have a shop local that makes stainless braided brake hoses, you can take them your old rubber hoses and they can reuse the ends.
Unsure of your questions on the calipers, as I still have my original ones
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Old 09-23-2017, 08:52 AM
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I put 3rd gen master cylinder and hydroboost on mine only requires redrilling 1 hole and the brake rod is correct for the pedal. Don't know how it would work with stock brakes . I have 3rd calipers and Rotors even got 3rd gen parking brake
Old 09-23-2017, 09:06 AM
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Can you show pick and give a writeup of your conversion?
Old 09-23-2017, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by samiam4
Can you show pick and give a writeup of your conversion?
I used torque motor sports front caliper brackets Drilled one hole in the firewall for Hydro boost to bolt up Chevy military truck power steering reservoir for the extra return line on the rear I used 3rd gen caliper brackets cut off original backing plate flanges from housing and made new ones I'll try to get some pictures
Old 09-23-2017, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cabtruck
I used torque motor sports front caliper brackets Drilled one hole in the firewall for Hydro boost to bolt up Chevy military truck power steering reservoir for the extra return line on the rear I used 3rd gen caliper brackets cut off original backing plate flanges from housing and made new ones I'll try to get some pictures



1 st pix is the rear bracket off a 2006 I Machine new flanges for the rear axle the master and hydro are also 06 the front are the torque motor sports brackets they used 2009 calipers and rotors
Old 09-23-2017, 08:10 PM
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I upgraded to the 1 ton brakes and deleted my abs module because it failed years ago. I can say I am very happy with my brakes and I didnt have to spend time trying to convert the brakes to hydroboost.
Old 09-23-2017, 08:45 PM
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If you don't want to spend the time or money to upgrade, at least do 3in shoes and keep them adjusted, it is amazing how much better they stop when adjusted.
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:21 AM
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Thanks guys, I think I will be ordering the new brake hardware right away and piecing the hydroboost together when I figure out everything I need. Anyone have experience with the new drums? I see 3 different ones, RAYBESTOS, one with 3.91in Overall Height, one with 6.29in Overall Height and one with 4.50in Overall Height, any idea how to tell which I have without having them apart, maybe it doesn't matter?

Also, while I have the front and rear apart is there anything else I should look at doing? wheel bearings? wheel seals? Thanks!
Old 09-24-2017, 11:15 AM
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I'll check on the NAPA part numbers for you on my raybestos drums. I know at the time I bought it, their was confusion with the parts guy also. I told him to cross reference the part numbers between a W250 and a single wheel W350, and to make sure the application was for 12"x3" shoes, and the matching part number for both models of trucks was the one I went with.
Give me about an hour or so
Old 09-24-2017, 01:22 PM
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I got centric on closeout at amazon. $19.

amazon has a better selection. New hardware kit too.
Old 09-24-2017, 01:25 PM
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Great pics!!

Maybe I can find some newer hydro and calipers. Just time before I switch.

Did you change proportion valve and remove the rwal?
Old 09-24-2017, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by samiam4
Great pics!!

Maybe I can find some newer hydro and calipers. Just time before I switch.

Did you change proportion valve and remove the rwal?
did away with abs and you'd a adjustable proportioning valve
Old 09-25-2017, 11:57 AM
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GCam, sorry I'm getting back to you the next day on this vs that hour I told you. The NAPA part number for the Raybestos drums are #440-1417(14" Drums). The 12"x3" shoes were Raybestos part #314PG.

Other needed part numbers- Axle seals- National #417158, (2) required, and Axle flange gaskets, 8 hole, Felpro #12579.

If you're feeling like installing new brake cables, Drivers side, Raybestos, #BC93587 which is 50 7/8" in length. Passenger side, also Raybestos, #BC93876 which is 95 3/8" in length.

Main brake cable from cab to the union of the two, is part #BC93586, 96 1/8" in length for a single cab truck.
All brake cables were sourced thru Amazon, by the way.
Heck, with this info, shoot...go all the way since your already in there! The cables are not that expensive, and they have those bulletproof connector ends where it connects to the parking brake arm inside the drums. These connectors are way better that the factory ends.
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Old 09-25-2017, 01:12 PM
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Thanks bigragu! I think I am going to have my drums turned unless someone thinks that's not worth while. I am looking at about $200 shipped for the new drums vs $50 to have them turned.

I will look into seals. How do the wheel bearings hold up?

I was actually going to ask about the cables! Would the front cable for an ext cab be BC93940 (114" overall).

I also wanted to ask, is it worth while to replace all the hardware inside the drums?

Return Spring - RAYBESTOS H547
Override Springs - CARLSON H2141 and H2140
Adjuster Kits - RAYBESTOS H2588 and H2589
Drum Brake Adjusting Lever
Drum Brake Adjusting Screw Assembly
Drum Brake Adjusting Spring Kit
Drum Brake Self Adjuster Cable
Drum Brake Self Adjuster Cable Guide

Anyone know about the calipers??

Thanks again!


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