1STGENFARMBOY

No ....when I painted it I didn't go all the way to the metal on the hood because it was pretty slick, so I just sanded it and painted, well the guy before me did the same thing over the original paint, so this winter the paint started turning loose on the hood, and not wanting to strip and paint at this time I taped it off and sprayed bed liner in the center, I will have to paint the rear flairs by winter due to rock chips and bird poop, so I will fix it right, but I couldn't stand looking at it all crappy.


thanks by the way.

edwinsmith

I finally got the Metal fuel line from China so I installed the Piston pump today. The most difficult part of the install was scraping the old gasket off the block. Cutting the insulation on the tappet cover was easy with the heat gun. Just heated it up a bit and the utility knife went right through. Getting the banjo bolt in was a PITA but I bent the line a bit and got it lined up. I had to make a trip to the parts store for a new hose clamp for the line to the tank.

I started it up to check for leaks and of course the fuel filter started gushing fuel out. I figured it was time for a change so off to the parts store again. They didn't have one in stock so I had to order one. Now the truck is stuck in the garage door so I can't close it overnight.

I screwed to old filter back on and gave it some extra torque and it sealed. I was afraid the gasket in the fuel heater might be leaking but apparently not. The old filter doesn't have that many miles on it so I decided to keep it for the time being. I'll keep the new one as a spare.

I looked at the old Diaphragm pump which had stopped working. the shaft coming from the diaphragm wasn't attached to the lever anymore. It didn't have that many miles on it so I figured it was just a crappy made unit. The piston pump shouldn't be subject to that problem and looks to be repairable. Do they make kits for them?

Took it for a spin down the 405 freeway and it still runs strong as ever. I love how I can pull away from the stream in 5th gear at 80 mph.

Edwin

NJTman

Really fun, yesterday, on U.S.81 in PA, heading up hill at 80mph, giving,it more pedal, and it pulling up the hill with ease. Running 950* max on the pyro, and tapping 24 psi on the boost from time to time.
Its great when all is in tune

oliver foster

My daughter and I took Poncho [91.0] on a 9 hr road trip to see Iron Madien in Ma. last night.
The show was really great and the old truck ran awesome! I was super pumped when my daughter asked me if I would take here to see Madien for her first concert. We had a great night together.

NJTman

The pulley's do wear out, and cause lots of noises.

You tell by looking at the valleys of the pulley. If the pulley valleys are shiny all the way to the bottom of the valley, then the pulley is worn out. If the belt doesn't go all the way down into the bottom of the valleys, it should still have some life to it.

My screeching didn't go away until I replaced the pulley with new.

peckens

My sis in law just saw them about a month ago.

KRB

Not today but last weekend drained, refilled and adjusted the auto after, um, well, about ten years. And delivered 6 loads of alfalfa today. Details in my tranny noise post which I hope to upadate in the morning, long day...

bigredbrick

Just got back from RV camping at Stampede, north of Truckee. Brakes worked better, but they need more work; like rebuild the vacuum pump because it is leaking, new pads and resurface the rotors even though they're in decent shape. I know, hydroboost!
Thank God the EGT gauge decided to work on the way up the hill over Donner Summit. With the new injectors it was getting pretty darn toasty. Even though it was pulling good in 3rd (auto) I had to downshift into 2nd and feather the go pedal to keep the temperature under control. Made it there and back without melting down!

bigredbrick

J Martin and NJT, you guys are right. My screech is back but not as loud as before, so it's probably the other pulleys. I should check the belt. On another vehicle I used to have, I could see bits of road sand imbedded in the belt and polished smooth by the pulleys.

NJTman

J martin was the one who told me about it. I found it hard to believe as well.

When I replaced the alternator pulley, it still squeaked, so I put a new belt on it. Since then, no more squeak. Can only assume the belt had worn from the bad Alternator pulley.

Most likely the other pulley's are fine, as its usually the alternator that goes bad

you can take a random orbiting sander and also "scuff" the flat side of the belt with 120 grit sandpaper, as well as cleaning the surface of the flat rider pulley with no grooves as well. That made all the difference.




Found the alternator pulley on fleabay # 261072169537

Diesel_Dawg

Decided to drop the tank on my W250 to replace the tank to lift pump fuel line only to find some serious rust on the lower chassis flange behind the fuel tank. The rest of the chassis only has some slight surface rust, so I was surprised to say the least.
Ended up buying a rolling 92 W250 chassis, minus the bed, the doors and rad core support off of Craigslist. I did a bonsai run last Thursday (~700 mile round trip to high desert area) to check out the condition of the chassis and cab, which looked really good. Now I am going to do a frame/off instead of a trans swap.

bigragu

Removed and presoaked my valve covers in cleaner degreaser, as part of prep work for touch up paint on the valve covers.

Made a mistake today, and pre cleared any fault codes I had on my 2002 PSD prior to driving into the smog shop. Ended up failing, cause for some reason they couldn't read anything on the scan tool. Lesson learned. Now I have to go and put anywhere from 20-250 miles before the computer resets itself. Made me appreciate my non smog Dodge. What a pain in the butt, every two years. Now I have to drive back to them for a re test.

NJTman

It's actually quite common, unfortunately, to find severe rust in there. No one.... well, besides me... removes their tank every few years, and cleans out the junk, oils or paints inside. I don't remove it anymore, as Ollie taught me to just spray a bunch of gooey oil in there, and fuggetaboutit.

Sad..... little to no protection on these frames from the factory.

oliver foster

Rotted frames behind the fuel tank and rotted front cab mounts...I have seen many more of those than I would like to have.
On my own rigs I just get the pressure washer back behind the fuel tank the best I can let it dry for a day or two, and then spray the oil right to it.

I picked up a '92 original owner 68,xxx mile Ramcharger today for a Spice colored console I have been looking for over 2 years. It has some other small spare parts I can use but most importantly the rear axle Walter needs for his '85 RC. It was the most rotten old plow rig I have seen in a year or two. I was trying to find enough value in it too buy it when I discovered some vintage Vuarnet sunglasses at the bottom of the glove box...I'll take it I said. It was a better moment than when I found the stretched out tightey whiteys I found in the trunk....
It does have a very nice rear fiberglass hatch that I need but it is the '92/'93 LE style, where I was hoping to find a nice early style hatch to replace the broken up one on my '89 RC. It was literally the only nice body panel left on the '92. It does have some nice spice interior trim and some decent bucket seats, other than all the cigarette burn holes.
I will use what can be saved and scrap the rusty sheetmetal and broken frame.

edwinsmith

I would think if you cleaned the area real good and then used Rustoleum Rust Reformer then covered it with a good epoxy paint or undercoating that would stop the problem. I can see why snow and mud would accumulate there though. Road salt will eat through just about anything.