I just put a new set of Tires on my 93 One ton. After going through that I'm kind of tired of dealing with the wheels on this truck.

i am wondering what kind of options are out there?

Has anyone here converted to a different set up?

 

I'm interested to hear what other options are out there as well.
Bill

 

I believe you can swap front spindles/hubs to a CHEVY D60 dually front style so you can run non "coined" rims.

Then you need to put a Dana 80 in the rear or 2nd gen dually rear as well to get the same effect. I don't know how to get around the rear axle "coined" hub issue, sorry. The front is very straight forward though and the parts will retrofit / bolt right in.

Was that what you were asking.

 

Well from what I have read it's probably a change to the second gen axles or Chev style stuff.

I have been looking a Dually Dana 80s for the back. Looks fairly straight forward. I'm not sure what do do with the front then.

I'm assuming you don't have to torque 2nd gen wheel lugs to 350'#. I would really like to get away from that.

 

if you get a set of swivel washer lug nuts you will only have to torque them to 140-150ft-lbs.

there is no reason to change hubs or axles to get rid of coined wheels.

the rear wheels are hub centric already. you do not need to use tapered nuts to center the rear wheels.

the front hubs have a gm hub spec, changing to gm hubs will get you
9/16 studs and thats about it. the gm hubs likely dont have a pocket for the male coins to sit in. you could grind the 4 male coins flat as they are not doing anything anyway. you would still need to use 2 tapered lug nuts to center the front coined wheels.

you can run 2nd gen wheels if you drill the lug bores to allow the 5/8 studs to fit. they are perfect on the rear. on the front you need a couple of hub centric rings to center the wheels.

 

So it is possible to use factory 2nd gen wheels front and back?

I wonder what the width and offsets are?

Anyone ever seen this done?

 

2nd gen dually wheels have more offset which would be good for the rears if you want to run 255/85 R16 but would make the front end even MORE narrow.

Thanks for the great info commotion man.

 

my 95 chassis cab wheels are the same offset as my 90 chassis cab coined wheels. which are also the same as the ford alcoa wheels which i am mounting. whether there are some 2nd gen wheels that are different i am not sure but i would think they are all the sale.

the hub bores on my coined wheels and 2nd gen wheels are the same.

the hub outside diameter on my 95 chassis cab dama 80 and my 90 chassis cab dana 70 are the same. which to my understanding dodge used on all 3500 dually trucks to date front and rear.

its only the front hubs on the first gens that have a problem. on the 2wd there is no hub locating flange whatsoever so on these trucks a min of two tapered seats are necessary on any wheel to center properly. unless someone were to cut a groove and install a hub locating ring. on the w350 i am sure dodge saved couple bucks and used gm hub spec hubs that dana had laying around or were lazy and overlooked it and modded the gm hub cast so we are stuck with hubs that need either a wheel or hub centric ring with a dimension of 4.56" instead of the dodge standard of 4.77".

the 2nd gen wheel lug bores can be drilled by hand. i have already drilled one of mine to 11/16 and test fit it on my 90 rear. fits perfect.

the coined wheels are fine unless switching to aluminum wheels then you need to grind the male coins flat so they dont chew up the alum wheels and allow them to seat properly. and remember the hub centricity issue with whatever wheels yoi attempt to mount. the coined wheels on the front actually help center the wheel with a couple tapered nuts per dodge tsb due to hub mismatch.

the stock lug nuts are the real pain in the rear. its no fun breaking loose or torqueing them to 325-350ft-lbs. the only reason for such a high torque requirement is to overcome the friction created by the fixed flange lugs. a set of swivel washer lugs (think 2nd gen style) that only need 140-150ft-lbs make it alot easier and enjoyable to work on the truck.

 

So For the rears all I have to do is open up the lug holes and i will have 2nd gen hub centric rims on the back.

So If I took the hubs off the front axle of my 93 and had a spacer made to bring the hub up to 4.77". The wheels could be mounted like a 2nd gen truck, hubcentricly?

 

your coined wheels are hub centric as mounted on rear axle right now. yes, if you open up the lug bores on 2nd, 3rd or 4th gen wheels so a 5/8 stud can pass and mount them on rear they will also be hub centric.

there is no need to remove your front hubs.

an accurate measurement needs to be taken.

if you had some hub centric rings made with an od of 4.77 the wheel would not slip on easily as that is the hub bore of the wheel. i actually measured my wheels (both 1st & 2nd gen) at 4.769 close enough. there needs to be enough tolerance to allow the wheel to slip on easily without interference or need to be pressed on.

why do you want to get away from your coined wheels 1979-5.9?

if you have a set of calipers and can take some measurements let me know. we can compare notes--mainly on the front hubs. i took some pretty decent measurements of mine with the studs in place. soon i am going to remove the studs to double check my measurements and also check radial runout. then i will be ordering up some hub centric rings.

check the classifieds for some swivel washer style lug nuts.

if your mainly unhappy with having to torque the lugs to 325+ft-lbs of torque that has nothing to do with the coined wheels. that torque requirement is a necessity of the garbage stock fixed flange lug nuts dodge stuck us with.

 

If one were to simply drill the lug holes to accept 5/8" studs, wouldn't the fronts then become lug-centric being that the fitment of the stud and the stud hole would be exact? Thus, no longer requiring 2 tapered lug nuts to center them?

 

i dont think it can be done accurately within reason. it would take some very precision drilling and if it could be in fact done it would likely be very hard to slide the wheel onto the studs. the hub centric tolerance that i measured on the rears of my 1st and 2nd gens was .009-.011. the guy i bought my alcoas from had them on a 1st gen dually and he seemed to think they were ok (lug centric). there is a guy on another site (he could be on here too not sure) that is running the same ford alcoas i have and he stated that they are tight enough on the lugs to be lug centric, this same guy is also using the stock lug nuts and says they are not chewing up the aluminum?.......the math says he has a bit more than four times the tolerance (.67-.625) than what a hub centric fit would/should be. i believe the tolerance of a true lug centric via tapered seats would be close to those of a hub centric or less. i think the best approach is to study the situation as i am doing. take some accurate measurements and order up some appropriate hub centric rings. once i am satisfied with my final measurements of my front hubs i will be ready to do so. if any of you guys can take some measurements of your hubs to compare notes that would be cool. you could even take a measurement of the gap between the hub and wheel without even pulling the wheel off.

 

I have Alcoas on my truck as well and they seem to be lug-centric. I installed the 2-piece lugnuts a couple of months ago that you mentioned above.

 

all alcoa dually wheels are meant to be hub centric. what wheels are they? if they are fords they are likely the specs mentioned above. what inners are you running? coins ground flat or? i am going to run 2nd gen inners/spare because i have them. otherwise i would probably just grind my coins flat. nice work on the securex. much better than the stock lugs huh?

 

They're the standard Alcoa wheels. Whether they're Ford or not, I'm not sure but they were available for the truck at the time my grandpa had them installed in the early 90s. I think the wheels were the same for Ford or Dodge duallys. Obviously, just larger stud holes for our Dodges. Still have the factory coined steels on the inners. Don't have any issues with them.



My dad had an '86 F-350 that had Alcoas on it from the factory. Identical looking except for 9/16" (IIRC) stud holes and maybe different backspacing dimensions.



I'm not positive that these lugnuts are Securex but I ordered them through Southwest Wheel Company in Texas. They look identical to the ones you have posted in the classifieds though. I've never had the factory 1-piece flanged nuts on the truck. Since the Alcoas were put on, they've always had a tapered acorn nut and concaved washer to accept said nut. I replaced the fronts because one of the washers snapped when I was approaching the 300ft. lbs. mark . I need to replace the rears next but ever since that experience, I stop at 200-250ft. lbs.