UH-OH, time for a rebuild!
So could someone explain the "extra meth" theory to me, I have heard of guys running 90% and even 100% methanol while picking up an extra 90HP without problems. I wasnt aware that it was this dangerous in higher doses, or was it a combination of several things?
From what I know, the reason water/meth is "safe" is that the water keeps the combustion chamber cool enough that the methanol won't light too early (before the injector sprays). High doses can autoignite, which causes damage similar to detonation on a gasser. This is also why propane is so nasty, it's like running waaayy too much timing.
Man that stinks
I have ran some hot mixes of water/meth with alot of timing, but I think I will keep it to a minimum now.
Knock on wood I dont want to see that happen to my motor. I have also ran propane and had it detonate at the wrong time=bad news. I am sure that is why I lost my headgasket it was either that or the 50+ pounds of boost I was running
When I see my mechanic I will ask him what he thinks might of happened.
Well I should be getting my injectors pretty soon, but I guess you guys wont need them for a while. I imagine that after the rebuild you will want to take it easy for a bit and let everything get seated before taking it to the track or dyno right? Let me know when you guys get back on the road. If its going to be a while I might send the injectors to Brenden so he can try them out. I offered them to you guys first so when you guys figure out a plan let me know. Keep us up to data on what you guys plan on doing.
Stomp
I have ran some hot mixes of water/meth with alot of timing, but I think I will keep it to a minimum now.
Knock on wood I dont want to see that happen to my motor. I have also ran propane and had it detonate at the wrong time=bad news. I am sure that is why I lost my headgasket it was either that or the 50+ pounds of boost I was running
When I see my mechanic I will ask him what he thinks might of happened.
Well I should be getting my injectors pretty soon, but I guess you guys wont need them for a while. I imagine that after the rebuild you will want to take it easy for a bit and let everything get seated before taking it to the track or dyno right? Let me know when you guys get back on the road. If its going to be a while I might send the injectors to Brenden so he can try them out. I offered them to you guys first so when you guys figure out a plan let me know. Keep us up to data on what you guys plan on doing.
Stomp
OUCH! Thats ruff, I am sorry to hear it. I was looking over the pictures and I wonder if the plunger return springs were floating causing the sparatic spray paterns? I don't know what size tire you run so I couldn't calculate your exact RPM but I would guess you were turning about 4K @ 100 MPH. I hope the experts chime in here and get it figured out so it won't happen anymore.
I don't know what your budget is but it would be a good time to freshen up the bottom end, add a cam, a girdle, stud it all, and maybe get a newer head. That way you will be set down the road for when you get crazy on the boost and drugs.
Thanks
Brenden
I don't know what your budget is but it would be a good time to freshen up the bottom end, add a cam, a girdle, stud it all, and maybe get a newer head. That way you will be set down the road for when you get crazy on the boost and drugs.
Thanks
Brenden
The RPM was probably about 3400, 31" tire and 3.07 gear.
Im leaning towards going through the whole bottom end and putting in a set of oem pistons, I just need to make some phone calls and find out what everything is going to cost me. I dont see a girdle and studs for the bottom end being necessary because you can only get so much fuel and HP out of a VE. As for a cam, it would be hard for me to spend the money on something that isnt going to really gain me any HP. The truck is also no longer a daily driver because I bought it from my brother. I still plan on pushin the envelope as far as VE horsepower is concerned, I just dont see the need to spend all the extra money.
Cory
Im leaning towards going through the whole bottom end and putting in a set of oem pistons, I just need to make some phone calls and find out what everything is going to cost me. I dont see a girdle and studs for the bottom end being necessary because you can only get so much fuel and HP out of a VE. As for a cam, it would be hard for me to spend the money on something that isnt going to really gain me any HP. The truck is also no longer a daily driver because I bought it from my brother. I still plan on pushin the envelope as far as VE horsepower is concerned, I just dont see the need to spend all the extra money.
Cory
Originally Posted by Stomp
Man that stinks
I have ran some hot mixes of water/meth with alot of timing, but I think I will keep it to a minimum now.
Knock on wood I dont want to see that happen to my motor. I have also ran propane and had it detonate at the wrong time=bad news. I am sure that is why I lost my headgasket it was either that or the 50+ pounds of boost I was running
When I see my mechanic I will ask him what he thinks might of happened.
Well I should be getting my injectors pretty soon, but I guess you guys wont need them for a while. I imagine that after the rebuild you will want to take it easy for a bit and let everything get seated before taking it to the track or dyno right? Let me know when you guys get back on the road. If its going to be a while I might send the injectors to Brenden so he can try them out. I offered them to you guys first so when you guys figure out a plan let me know. Keep us up to data on what you guys plan on doing.
Stomp
I have ran some hot mixes of water/meth with alot of timing, but I think I will keep it to a minimum now.
Knock on wood I dont want to see that happen to my motor. I have also ran propane and had it detonate at the wrong time=bad news. I am sure that is why I lost my headgasket it was either that or the 50+ pounds of boost I was running
When I see my mechanic I will ask him what he thinks might of happened.
Well I should be getting my injectors pretty soon, but I guess you guys wont need them for a while. I imagine that after the rebuild you will want to take it easy for a bit and let everything get seated before taking it to the track or dyno right? Let me know when you guys get back on the road. If its going to be a while I might send the injectors to Brenden so he can try them out. I offered them to you guys first so when you guys figure out a plan let me know. Keep us up to data on what you guys plan on doing.
Stomp
Thanks
Cory
Originally Posted by rockjeep73
Go ahead and send the injectors to Brenden first, its gonna be a little while until I get this thing going again, thanks for the offer though. When I do get it back on the road I will let you know as I would still like to give them a try.
Thanks
Cory
Thanks
Cory
Stomp
The water/meth mixture actually slows the flame propogation which allows for more advance in the squirt and therefore a longer pressure transfer cycle to the crank. Slower flame propogation means less pressure spiking which wastes power through excessive heat and blowby. Having steam in the combustion chamber also scrubs out the carbon so the compression ratio does not get artificially increased through carbon buildup and the valves stay unshrouded.
I once put an Edelbrock Vari-Jection system on a 1970 Cutlass Convertible we had because the compression ratio was 10.25:1 and it was rattling like a ******. I ran it that way for about 100K until I broke a piston using rope to hold up the valves while I replaced the stem seals (stupid kid!
). I pulled the head at 230K and the pistons and combustion chamber were extremely clean. I was sold on water injection from then on.
I once put an Edelbrock Vari-Jection system on a 1970 Cutlass Convertible we had because the compression ratio was 10.25:1 and it was rattling like a ******. I ran it that way for about 100K until I broke a piston using rope to hold up the valves while I replaced the stem seals (stupid kid!
). I pulled the head at 230K and the pistons and combustion chamber were extremely clean. I was sold on water injection from then on.
I forgot you only had 3.07's 3328 RPM @ 100 Just throwing this out there but because you have the stock auto and you are pushing a good bit of torque through it could't it be 200-300 RPM higher due to slippage?
That sounds like a good plan $ wise on the bottom end. I was thinking with the studs and girdle it would handle anything you could throw at it. I know the parts add up REAL QUICK!
You have to remember I live by the rule
"If some is good, More is better, And too much is about right!"
I am only at the "some is good" part and I am sitting here planing the more is better part and the $ is adding up quick
Thanks
Brenden
That sounds like a good plan $ wise on the bottom end. I was thinking with the studs and girdle it would handle anything you could throw at it. I know the parts add up REAL QUICK!
You have to remember I live by the rule
"If some is good, More is better, And too much is about right!"
I am only at the "some is good" part and I am sitting here planing the more is better part and the $ is adding up quick
Thanks
Brenden
Originally Posted by lovemysan
How many miles were on that? I can still see the cross hatch. I must admit I felt an immediate let down reading this thread. I'm saving for a locker. Going for low 15s with stock injectors.
Dont need to save much if anything for the locker he has....
Originally Posted by rockjeep73
Im leaning towards going through the whole bottom end and putting in a set of oem pistons, I just need to make some phone calls and find out what everything is going to cost me. I dont see a girdle and studs for the bottom end being necessary because you can only get so much fuel and HP out of a VE.
Cory
Cory
Girdle? Studs? What are those?
I was under the impression that the bottom end was good for 5000 RPM? What are girdles and studs for?
Just kind of out of the insane HP loop, I guess...
Studs - like head studs. More clamping force out of the same size fastener.
Girdle - a piece that fits over the main bearing caps to keep them from breaking.
This is high dollar puller stuff, not really until you start pushing 750 - 800 HP.
Girdle - a piece that fits over the main bearing caps to keep them from breaking.
This is high dollar puller stuff, not really until you start pushing 750 - 800 HP.
I find it hard to believe that a Cummins needs a stud girdle. Even the nitromethane cars don't use them. I can see it on an unshrouded block, but.......
Now if one was pushing 1,000 HP or better maybe.
Now if one was pushing 1,000 HP or better maybe.
Ok, here is my reasoning on the girdle. What can it hurt? Besides your wallet
When I build my spare engine I am going to stud everything and girdle the block. Maybe it is exessive but at least I know it should handle everything I can dish out.
Even a VE, with a 14mm pump head, twin's, water meth, or my favorite N2O, you are asking a lot out of the stock set up. Stomp already had a 680RWHP run that is just 20RWHP short of 700RWHP out of a VE.
Nascar mark has Dyno'd 700 RWHP he girdled the block, why? Just extra insurance.I am sure for 99% of the guys it won't be necessary but for the 1% of us crazy's it just give's you a little extra reasurence when you start to push the limits.
Thanks
Brenden
When I build my spare engine I am going to stud everything and girdle the block. Maybe it is exessive but at least I know it should handle everything I can dish out. Even a VE, with a 14mm pump head, twin's, water meth, or my favorite N2O, you are asking a lot out of the stock set up. Stomp already had a 680RWHP run that is just 20RWHP short of 700RWHP out of a VE.
Nascar mark has Dyno'd 700 RWHP he girdled the block, why? Just extra insurance.I am sure for 99% of the guys it won't be necessary but for the 1% of us crazy's it just give's you a little extra reasurence when you start to push the limits.
Thanks
Brenden






