I have a project 91.5 2500, It is bone stock. 142,000 miles. I had the tranny fixed. I would like to gain a little more power out of it. Just enough for towing long haul, and maybe some pulling duties. I am running the stock three inch exhaust, but have cut the muffler out. So it is straight pipe, and sounds tough. exits just before the rear pass tire. I have also removed the airbox, and just have the factory filter bolted down. and pointed away from the front. I dont really have alot of money to spend on this truck right now. So any power gains I would do would need to be cheap. Turning up the fuel pressure and such worries me. I have never done it, and dont want to damage anything. Would I have to replace anything to accomadate the extra fuel?

 

Do it!
Most everybody on this forum has their pump turned up. You dont have to replace anything, but guages are a must if your towing. Pyro, boost, trans temp, fuel pressure.
Advance your timing a bit too.

 

I would suggest bigger injectors also,the I/C motor injectors are tiny,I see alot more 91.5-93 injector pumps go out vs the non intercooled pumps, I suspect the pump gets overworked pushing more fuel thru small injectors. dpends on how much you push it. just an observation.

 

Turning up the fuel screw increses the pumps case pressure, and in turn causes to shut off solenoid to fail. If that happens you have three choices. Install a pull casbe and gut the solenoid, turn the pump back down, or run larger injectors and keep the upmp turned up. When you run larger injectors and a turned up pump, it doesn't have as much pressure on the pump or solenoid, so the shut off solenoid won't fail.

As far as I/C pumps failing more than Non I/C pumps, I don't believe that is true. I have heard of both pumps failing, just as many I/C as Non I/C, but it doesn't happen often, so I wouldn't worry about it.

 

That's some good stuff right there ^^^^^^.....I'd turn the screw maybe a turn or two and see how you like it. If you want more, then it is time for a lift pump and injectors.

 

In response to the pump dying with the screw turned in too far...

Have had mine 1.25 turns from runaway for a year, and 1/2 turn for a month or so now. No problems. Im not nice to my truck.

No point in buying injectors if you want to tow. Stock turbo can barely keep stock intercooled injectors cool, never mind non i/c. You will be spending money on air before you have to spend money on fuel.

That being said, 1 turn on the full power screw and a fuel pin makes a nice difference. Enough to warrant an egt gauge while pulling stuff.

I also forgot the 3200 gov spring. One of the best things you can do to these engines.

 

So the sequence is, mind you I dont want to buy parts, is: turn the full power screw one turn or so? Is that all I have to do? Where is this screw? is it the one thats welded?

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=158962


http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm

Here is some light reading for you, don't skip the runaway stuff. For the sequence of what to do you should be getting a pyro on there so you don't turn your pistons into paper weights. I would recommend a cheap gauge for fuel pressure too, thats all that lubricates the pump.

cheap pressure gauge:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...-1405&catname=

 

Tater; the surplus center doesnt list a pyro. But great prices! And, according to the website you directed me to. I have to do all of these steps to turn up the fuel pressure? I am just looking for a "little more" power. I am not wanting to race this truck with a trailer on it. (although it sounds fun) I am referring back to this full-power screw, can I just crank that in a turn or so to get what I am looking for? Or do I need to do all of the adjustments on that site?

 

WARNING! Play with the fuel screw and it will all begin. You will want more. Everybody does!

Chris

 

you don't NEED to do all of them right now....but you will after driving your truck. Seriously though, the tuning is free so you might as well buy the pyro and crank the pump, you wont ever regret it. We are all just looking for a "little more power" it will never end.

Tuning all the screws is real simple get in there and play with them all, just remember how much you move each one so you can set it back it if you don't like it. I would get the pyro then start playing with them all to understand how each screw affects the truck. Its great and you shouldn't hurt anything as long as you have the pyro to see the temperatures. All I have in my truck is the 3200 rpm governor spring($16), big air filter($40), ground pin(free), maxed pump(free), and of course the gauges($180 Pyro & boost). The injectors and turbo are stock and I dyno'd at 271 hp.

Here is a link for some gauges, it was the cheapest place I could find two years ago when I got mine:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/gauges.asp

Here is what I have for a pyro
http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r3607gr_ev_pyro.asp

Have fun

 

I turned up the full pressure screw two turns. the collar welds just snapped loose. no grinding involved. cleaned the threads with a die i had. I also turned the low pressure screw two turns. I noticed a low torque improvement, when I started out and it smoked the tires in two gears! I did notice an increase in speed to 65. I didnt push it over that, I have backroads to deal with here. highway is too far for testing. I am very pleased with this setting, I am gona leave it. This is a tow rig for my mud truck only. I have a 98' to play with. Tater, do you believe that I will need the pyro guage with just doing these two adjustments? I only turned them according to the steps in the webpage you sent me to. I dont want to spend too much more money here. I will however pick it up if It is suggested. Thanks for all your help.

 

It's easy to get sucked in for sure !!! I started by just wanting a couple things.....the list just keeps getting longer!!! The thing to do is decide what u can afford or want to afford, and pick your mods acordingly

I have to keep telling myself no.... Must make Mortgage payment....NO, must pay car payment.....and on and On

 

I can't say. Every pump is different. That and you are towing.

Maybe someone else can answer that.


I would say get the gauge and crank it the rest of the way, she will tow that much better and you will know whats up. You should fill in your signature so we can see what you have for trucks and whats done to them. Its under the user CP tab to the top left of the screen.

 

here, i think that did it.