whosdunit

Soooo,, a few months ago we had a flood here where i'm at,,lost 1 car ( full of water & muck),,the rear end's on our pk-ups filled with water,,got 'm drained , cleaned ,new oil,,good to go. Now the rear pinion seal is leaking on my d250 ( yep,, cleaned out vent line ) I have a 70 dana ( auto w/ od ) rear end ,,what seal #,,do I need ?? , and what's a cruch washer ? I'v worked on almost everything ,,,, but the rear end's,,time to learn!!!
All help appreciated.

whosdunit.

peckens

The pinion seal is easy. All you have to do is disconnect the driveshaft, remove the pinion nut, and the yoke. Rip out the old seal and drive the new one in. You just need to find a piece of round tube or something to pound the new seal in. I cant remember the torque spec for the pinion nut.

whosdunit

Thanks peckens,,been read'n up on it,,some where I read something about a crunch "bushing "or something . But just pry out old seal ,,install new seal,,tork to about 350 lb. ??? Wonder if the same seal fit's all 70 dana rear ends.

Again thanks,,,,whosdunit.

torquefan

Most differentials use a crush sleeve to maintain the proper preload on the pinion bearings. It is a collapsible metal spacer that will deform as you apply torque to it, and keep the proper spacing between the bearings. If you crank the nut down too far, it will collapse too far and put too much preload on the bearings. However, Dana differentials do not use crush sleeves, they use shims between the bearings, so theoretically, simply retorquing the pinion nut to the proper value will restore the same preload to the bearings that was there before you loosened the nut.

NJTman

Glad you saved your 1st gen

whosdunit

Thank's to everyone,,it's to cold to crawl around under my trk. here,,so i'll have to be driv'n my 90 d350 till I can catch a warmer day ( some up around the 50's) to finish . Not to seem like a whiner,,,but how do we stop water ( rain ) from running in around the vents in to the floor,,?? NJTman,, i'm getting 20-23 mpg's. ,,not lett'n it go.

whosdunit.

bigragu

Dana 70 rear pinion seal- NAPA part #18891 $16 as of 2008.

O’rileys National brand pinion seal part #719316 $25.99 as of 2014.

I used a Dewalt electric 1/2”Drive impact hammer to set the required torque, as I don’t have the special yoke holding tool shown in the FSM. Coat the perimeter of the seal with oil resistant RTV prior to hammering it on.

peckens

I am still trying to figure that out on my truck. I have resealed the cab lights, cargo light, resealed the gutters, sealed the D/S vent, and pulled the fender off to check for cowl cracks with no luck. My floor boards have rotted out. Last option I can think of is the windshield seal. However, the glass guy says not to do our seals in the winter do to shrinkage.

NJTman

I chased the infamous wet floor issue for quite a while. What did I do to fix it?
Removed all carpeting, so that if / when it gets wet, I can dry it out by removing my rubber floor mats.

Found,the main water entry point. Speakers.

Running down the Windows, down the inside of the doors, and into the cab through the speaker assembly.

Peel and stick window tape on the speaker fixed it.

edwinsmith

I got all new window runners and seals along with full weather gaskets around the doors when I did my paint job. The speakers have a plastic shield so that any water that gets in runs off and out the drain in the bottom of the doors.

I was told by the windshield man that the gasket on the windshield and back glass don't need sealer because of the way it's made. I haven't noticed any leaks and I checked after the rains this week.

NJTman

I have the plastic shield as well. My larger magnet speakers , even with the shields installed, allow water to enter through the wicking .process, until I covered them with the peel and stick. I also had all new weather gaskets around the Windows including the wipers along the bottom of the glass. Water still enters during heavy rains Now it just runs out the holes in the door bottoms, as intended.

My windshield guy said the same thing. No goop needed, other than a water soluble lubricant during installation.

peckens

I am not sure about my driver side yet but the p/s is coming from above the kick panel. Almost inline with the bottom corner of the windshield.

mknittle

I think there is a drain in the vent channel that gets plugged. might try that first.

oliver foster

I have seen cracks in the metal below the lower edge / corner of the windshield allow water in the cab.
There is a small piece of waterproofing tape there from the factory, which my be compromised at this point.

whosdunit

Thanks for all the info. when the weather gets warmer ( 20's-30's here today) I shall indever to fix all the suggestion something will fix it. NJT,,, the rubber mat was installed "over the carpet" be fore I got the truck,,but I will pull it all out and start from there. Oh ya crawled under tk ..has SPICER 70 REAR END..then found a faded sticker under the hood ..got t'a love it. ha,ha,ha,ha.

coffee's ready,,,,whosdunit.