1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

tuning issues

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 10, 2011 | 01:03 PM
  #1  
wheelieking71's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, AZ
tuning issues

okay, as i stated in my "no-start" thread. i am a diesel newbie. i have done a crap ton of research though. and have been spinning wrenches my whole life, so im not clueless. but im finding the learning curve is steep to diesel happyness. my truck is a 91.5, 5-speed, 235,000mi, started off bone stock. during a much needed maintenance session, i popped the top off the pump, and installed a "366" spring. then bottomed the fuel screw against the collar (with no washer, just the screw, and jam-nut). initially i left the fuel-pin/diaphram indexed as i found it, and didnt touch the star-wheel. truck runs good, but has a pretty bad "shudder" while free revving (wicking the throttle wide open by hand) it feels and sounds like a missfire. and it is noticable while driving. and there is a very faint whitish/grey haze, but no smoke, and the haze is only at "tip-in". once the throttle is open there is no smoke, or haze at all. (know that i dont want to "roll-coal". i just want my rig to run well) it pulls pretty good up to about where the gov. used to be. then it will keep revving, but it doesnt pull up top at all (and generally runs like sheet up there). i immediately thought more fuel. so last night i turned the diaphram to get the deepest side of the pin, and cranked the star-wheel down one rev. didnt seem to make a difference at all. now i am at the point where i think either i need more fuel, or i have a mechanical issue. which brings me to another problem. i had to back the fuel screw out just about the thickness of the washer that was on there when i took it apart to get the idle low enough. i have the low idle screw backed all the way off the lever, and the idle is good now, but if i give it any more fuel screw, even 1/8turn, idle goes too high, and i have no way to bump it down. truck has not tried to "run-away" or anything like that (i dont think im even close, the collar is still there) but i dont understand the idle thing. in all the reading i have done (countless hours) i havnt seen where anybody hasnt been able to get thier idle low enough after the "366" spring, and some very minor tweaks.
im tempted to find a shop that knows thier way around first-gens, and have a pro tune it. but i have 2 problems with that. one: i have been spending buckets of money on this beast. im broke right now. and, two:
i really hate letting other people work on my junk. it never ever ends well. (in my experiences). anybody got any advice? i guess the next step would be to have the injectors tested????
Reply
Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #2  
ARbowhunter7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 351
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, GA
Get the sticks tested only if it's cheap....mainly because new injectors for these trucks are very inexpensive.
Reply
Old Mar 10, 2011 | 08:56 PM
  #3  
wheelieking71's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, AZ
ya, i think the local bosch dealer will test them for free. been doing a bunch of reading tonight. im starting to wonder if its the lift-pump? i have a fuel pressure gauge. im gonna rig it between the lift pump, and injection pump and see just whats happening there. at part throttle, or easy driving, it runs great. idles smooth. and the fact that the fuel-pin/star-wheel tweaks i made last night made no difference what-so-ever. it has to be fuel. are there dead give-aways for a bad or dirty injector? and i still need to figure out the high idle thing.
Reply
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 06:00 AM
  #4  
PatJ's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Canada
For the high idle:
Is your throttle linkage attached to your pump on the inside hole or the outside one.
If you move it to the inside hole on the lever it might give you that extra bit of movement your need.

If you do a search for high idle I know there was a thread recently on this.
Reply
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 07:42 AM
  #5  
wheelieking71's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, AZ
throttle linkage is outside hole. but i popped it off when i first discovered my idle issue, and adjusted it disconnected. (it didnt matter anyways, there was plenty of slack/adjustment in it) the thing i dont understand, is that i can back the low-idle screw all the way off the lever, and the lever is not hitting the pump body anywhere, yet if i go in any more with the full fuel screw, the idle jumps above acceptable. and, im not in that far with the fuel screw, the collar is still on it. tomorrow when i have some more free time i am going to scrutinize it a little better. it would seem to me that if the lever has enough room to rotate untill there is slack on the gov. spring, then i should be able to get my idle down after tweaking the fuel screw. correct? and i am also gonna check the fuel pressure just after the lift-pump. and see whats going on there. on a side not, i filled the tank this morning, and the fuel gauge went to max-empty! dang-it! i hate when my fuel gauge doesnt work. i know it works from 1/2tank down (1/2 is the fullest ive had it till this morn. and the "low-fuel" light even works. found that yesterday on my way home from work.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
02D0dge2500
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
2
Nov 4, 2008 02:00 PM
quantrill88
Other
5
Feb 20, 2004 10:43 AM
cummingetit
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
1
Sep 8, 2003 11:05 PM
hellotbone
Suggestions, Comments and Site Questions
11
Aug 6, 2003 05:29 PM
rigidrotor_rt
24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
11
Apr 11, 2003 09:33 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:47 PM.