The rear seal in my Transfercase is leaking. I have the drifeshaft out and found a 35mm nut holding the yoke in the transcase. I tried to scratch all the mud and muck off my t-case to find the data plate but I can't. I thought it was supposed to be pretty much right there on the rear facing surface. I found it easy on my 79 Chevy. But no dice on my 92 D250. Anybody have anything thing that could help>? i have a 1992 Dodge D250. 5.9L Cummins intercooled turbo diesel, long bed, 4 wheel drive. Yall got a good Ideal at waht I got by anychance?

 

T-case should be an NP-205.

 

That's what I was thinking it was. Just wanna make sure before I bought the wrongs part ya know? Auto zone advertises that these trucks came with a NP 241 also. Any way to visually tell the difference between the two?

 

Here's your problem, a D250 has no transfercase! Just kidding, it is 99% likely a 205, best way to know is it Aluminum/steel (241) or all cast iron (205)

 

It should be a 205, to be sure see if the case is magnetic, 205 is cast iron.

 

Good call with the magnet. I was gonna scratch it tomorrow morining to see if it was iron or aluminum. I've found that the part store have our trucks classified as W250's. Why is that? It says D250 on the side and paperwork.

 

The D classifies it as a 2 wheel drive, a W is for a 4 wheel drive.

 

Gotcha. Thank you.

 

Got the Tcase seal replaced and fixed. BUT.... In the process I found the rear u-joint was sloppy so I tried to replace that too. It was fine till one of the cap bolts rounded off. This thingrounded to the point that I cant even get vice grips on it. I'm at a stand still. I have new caps and bolts but I can't get that one out. Tried to get the rear yoke out to take it in the shop to work on it but it's taking more than my body weight to budge the nut on that thing. This rear end is a pain now. Never fear tho. I'm stubborn enough to get it.

 

Either drive a 12pt socket on it and try again or grind a notch across the face of the bolt for a flat blade screwdriver.

 

I tried driving a socket on it but no dice. they just come off. I even went out and got a impact driver. next step is to try to rip off the cap and see if I can get a better grip on that cap bolt. like I said I got new caps and bolts.

 

Just grind the head of and remove the joint then use grips to spin it out.

 

Air hammer.

 

I agree with grinding the head off and using Vise-grips. Once the tension is gone form the strap, the bolt will spin out fairly easily.

 

Use heat. Heat that sucker up.