Sway bar on W250 with 2.5" Lift
Sway bar on W250 with 2.5" Lift
I put new springs on my W250 a couple of years ago and I just picked up a front OEM sway bar. Do I need to longer sway bar links for it to work with a 2.5" lift?
Also, what are your thoughts on installing a dropped steering box pitman arm for a 2.5" lift?
Thanks,
Chris
Also, what are your thoughts on installing a dropped steering box pitman arm for a 2.5" lift?
Thanks,
Chris
it doesn't say you need it but if you purchased it ...
#SBL20 or SBL40 I used the later .I did 4 inch lift ,if you are in the USA i will amuse the price will be not a heck of a lot compared to me. I am glad i put it on, I think its more a piece of mind , So far my truck drives like a new truck the only thing i noticed is my steering is a bit sensitive
#SBL20 or SBL40 I used the later .I did 4 inch lift ,if you are in the USA i will amuse the price will be not a heck of a lot compared to me. I am glad i put it on, I think its more a piece of mind , So far my truck drives like a new truck the only thing i noticed is my steering is a bit sensitive
I used the stock links on mine, no prob. That's not a real fine adjustment. The suspension doesn't normally travel much on these trucks. As long as it's not way out of whack it'll be fine. Jack up the front end and let it droop all the way down and if you're satisfied it's not binding should be good to go.
The Pitman however is a must, IMHO. You can go without it, which I did for over a year because the PO did not see fit to install that option along with the new springs. But it won't steer right, and you'll be putting undue stress on the steering box mount and draglink joints. New drop pitman made a world of difference for me. I don't llike the adjustable drag link option for this application either, because the joint angle is still exaggerated, especially at low droop.
The Pitman however is a must, IMHO. You can go without it, which I did for over a year because the PO did not see fit to install that option along with the new springs. But it won't steer right, and you'll be putting undue stress on the steering box mount and draglink joints. New drop pitman made a world of difference for me. I don't llike the adjustable drag link option for this application either, because the joint angle is still exaggerated, especially at low droop.
Chris,
As far as the pitman arm is concerned, I've had a bad experience with it. I have also installed a pair of Skyjacker front springs on my W250 and only changed the drag link to an adjustable one. I had two drag links fail within a year. The tie rod on the pitman arm end went bad. After some research, I discovered Skyjacker makes a drop pitman arm for 3 different lifts. There's one for 2-4" (DA20), 4" (DA40) and one for 6" (DA45). There are a lot of guys on here who will argue that they did not use a drop pitman arm on their 2" lift with no ill effect. It's your call, however, I would suggest using it because even though 2" doesn't seem like much, it does change the geometry a tad; enough to stress the tie rod end at the pitman arm.
Aloha
As far as the pitman arm is concerned, I've had a bad experience with it. I have also installed a pair of Skyjacker front springs on my W250 and only changed the drag link to an adjustable one. I had two drag links fail within a year. The tie rod on the pitman arm end went bad. After some research, I discovered Skyjacker makes a drop pitman arm for 3 different lifts. There's one for 2-4" (DA20), 4" (DA40) and one for 6" (DA45). There are a lot of guys on here who will argue that they did not use a drop pitman arm on their 2" lift with no ill effect. It's your call, however, I would suggest using it because even though 2" doesn't seem like much, it does change the geometry a tad; enough to stress the tie rod end at the pitman arm.
Aloha
Chris,
As far as the pitman arm is concerned, I've had a bad experience with it. I have also installed a pair of Skyjacker front springs on my W250 and only changed the drag link to an adjustable one. I had two drag links fail within a year. The tie rod on the pitman arm end went bad. After some research, I discovered Skyjacker makes a drop pitman arm for 3 different lifts. There's one for 2-4" (DA20), 4" (DA40) and one for 6" (DA45). There are a lot of guys on here who will argue that they did not use a drop pitman arm on their 2" lift with no ill effect. It's your call, however, I would suggest using it because even though 2" doesn't seem like much, it does change the geometry a tad; enough to stress the tie rod end at the pitman arm.
Aloha
As far as the pitman arm is concerned, I've had a bad experience with it. I have also installed a pair of Skyjacker front springs on my W250 and only changed the drag link to an adjustable one. I had two drag links fail within a year. The tie rod on the pitman arm end went bad. After some research, I discovered Skyjacker makes a drop pitman arm for 3 different lifts. There's one for 2-4" (DA20), 4" (DA40) and one for 6" (DA45). There are a lot of guys on here who will argue that they did not use a drop pitman arm on their 2" lift with no ill effect. It's your call, however, I would suggest using it because even though 2" doesn't seem like much, it does change the geometry a tad; enough to stress the tie rod end at the pitman arm.
Aloha
I put drop pit and the adjustable drag link and the drop for the sway bar
I was told it was over kill but i only wanted to do it once and hopefully I will not have problems with the tie rods
EDIT ::: the drop sway bar bracket are not rocket science either ... if you have accesses to a machine shop they are just high grade steel that basically looks like this ( [ ] but bigger
) with four holes in it and it can slid to be adjusted if some one needs a picture i can try and take some
Thanks for posting this Diesel_Dawg. I was going to post the pitman arm question this morning as I noticed it looked like the tie rod at the pitman arm was at it's limit after the 2.5" springs went in. Steering seems a bit off as well.
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