Swapping auto out for a manual
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Phoenix AZ
I just searched through Geno's site....could not find those couplers.
I thought these were the only people making them.
http://shsdiesel.com/1st_Gen_Products.html
...and yes not cheap. Especially if you have to provide couplers as well. This is why I decided to do the 23 to 29 conversion on my NP205. More work...Yes...but in the end I have a transfer case that I know will not leave me stranded, and can take all the punishment my NV4500 can throw at it.
I thought these were the only people making them.
http://shsdiesel.com/1st_Gen_Products.html
...and yes not cheap. Especially if you have to provide couplers as well. This is why I decided to do the 23 to 29 conversion on my NP205. More work...Yes...but in the end I have a transfer case that I know will not leave me stranded, and can take all the punishment my NV4500 can throw at it.
I was talking about the regular non-modified couplers. I need to keep my nose out of project threads, because I know nothing about them......Mark
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Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Tulsa, OK
pedals: You will need pedals from any truck, pre-94', that had a hydraulic-clutch. Don't forget the angle-bracket that bolts to the side of the pedal-bulkhead, and holds the clutch master-cylinder. And, all the hydraulics.
Auto tranny 205 = 23splines
manual tranny 205 = 29splines (not 39, I'm sure it was a typo)
both driveshafts are different.
T-case shifter assembly is different.
Lots of electrical differences. The entire tranny harness is different. Not 100% sure, but I believe the underhood harness is also different. It is easier to swap from an auto rather than to an auto, because of the electronics! (unless you control O/D with a switch. then its easy)
The only good news electrically is that the plug for the clutch safety switch "should" be taped up in the harness under the dash just above the bulk-head connector. It will have a jumper wire plugged into it. Simply unplug the jumper, and plug the master-cylinder in. Otherwise, engine wont crank.
Yes I have been through this several times! LOL
Auto tranny 205 = 23splines
manual tranny 205 = 29splines (not 39, I'm sure it was a typo)
both driveshafts are different.
T-case shifter assembly is different.
Lots of electrical differences. The entire tranny harness is different. Not 100% sure, but I believe the underhood harness is also different. It is easier to swap from an auto rather than to an auto, because of the electronics! (unless you control O/D with a switch. then its easy)
The only good news electrically is that the plug for the clutch safety switch "should" be taped up in the harness under the dash just above the bulk-head connector. It will have a jumper wire plugged into it. Simply unplug the jumper, and plug the master-cylinder in. Otherwise, engine wont crank.
Yes I have been through this several times! LOL
So if I want to delete the clutch safety switch can I just leave the jumper wire in the plug? and is there one to defeat the neutral safety switch?
I am going from a 727 to a Getrag in my 90 4wd swap.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Prince George, BC
Most guys find that their dowel pin hasn't moved...but you should address the potential problem regardless. But what also everyone finds when they open the timing case is that the timing case bolts are loose. And these can case just as much damage, if not more, then the dowel pin.
You need to remove 4 of the 6 case bolts...think I have the numbers right? And then clean out the threads in the block, and on the bolts, with carb cleaner. Then lock tight they and re-torque them.
There are 2 bolts behind the cam gear that you can't get out, and are a pain to get to. Just get them out as far as you can, clean them, toc tite, and re-install.
You need to remove 4 of the 6 case bolts...think I have the numbers right? And then clean out the threads in the block, and on the bolts, with carb cleaner. Then lock tight they and re-torque them.
There are 2 bolts behind the cam gear that you can't get out, and are a pain to get to. Just get them out as far as you can, clean them, toc tite, and re-install.
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 7,265
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From: Prince George, BC
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Palmyra, Nebraska
Pedals are 1988-1993.
The T-case is 1989-1993 Getrag only (29 spline).
1992-1993 use a GATED T-Case shifter, 1989-1991 are non-gated.
An auto shifter will work, but the rod and bracket that mounts the shifter to the trans is different.
All of this is sitting in my back yard needing to go away, including the 29 spline t-case.
Mark.
The T-case is 1989-1993 Getrag only (29 spline).
1992-1993 use a GATED T-Case shifter, 1989-1991 are non-gated.
An auto shifter will work, but the rod and bracket that mounts the shifter to the trans is different.
All of this is sitting in my back yard needing to go away, including the 29 spline t-case.
Mark.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: South Dakota
Say quick question for you guys and gals. For the W250 what weight of oils are recommended for the front and back axles and the transfer case? I was thinking 80-90 gear lube for the axles and ATF for the transfer case. If I am wrong, correct me as I would rather be proven wrong then screw something up
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 167
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Say quick question for you guys and gals. For the W250 what weight of oils are recommended for the front and back axles and the transfer case? I was thinking 80-90 gear lube for the axles and ATF for the transfer case. If I am wrong, correct me as I would rather be proven wrong then screw something up
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t102027.html
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 67
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From: South Dakota
Ok guys and gals, yet another quick question. The other night I was idling the 92 12V 5.9 and I start hearing a squealing noise once every 5-10 minutes in the lower end and had white smoke coming out of the tail pipes. Talked with a buddy of mine and he said could be the piston coolers are possibly messing up. He also told me it could be the head gasket blew because my coolant in the overflow tank was down quite a bit but if it was the head gasket he couldn't explain the lower end noise. Any help is much appreciated.