DOZENVALVE

QUESTION. For people who have replaced this plate, do I need to lift the front end off the ground? Will I need to remove the steering box? If I need to remove the steering box can I remove it at the ball joint on the pitman arm instead of pulling it off the box? It looks easier.

I need to get a list of tools I may need so I can get a friend to get me a ride into town. I'm stranded until I get her fixed. Wondering if I need to get a floor jack and wondering what I'm up against.

jerseybud

Front end can stay on the ground, but steering box MUST come off.
Off the top of my head the bolts and nuts are 13/16 (maybe 7/8) holding the box on. I forget what size the power steering line nuts are.

It will be a MAJOR pain to get the forward most nut and bolt off. Will need 2 open end box /combo wrenches for that one.

Will need 12 point 3/8 sockets to get the special nuts out at the steering column rag joint. Those may be rusty and seized depending on your climate. Freeze-off and MAPP torch may help.
Will need a punch and a wood cushion to drive the roll pin out of the steering coupler. If you don't support the coupler, it will ruin the seal. Make sure you have a big screwdriver or pickle fork to pry the coupler off the shaft.

Will need 11/16 or 5/8 sockets to get the plate off the steering box. An impact makes it so much easier......
Torque wrench to put it back together.
You'll be on the ground a long time. That front nut is the worst....

DOZENVALVE

How come the steering box must come off? Can't get the plate out and slide a new one in?

RamGuy84

You should be able to just remove plate and drop box down without disconnecting the steering .Yes it will make it Harder but less mess .the bolt's that hold the box too the Plate are 5/8 and some maybe 9/16 have run across both sizes the plate bolt's are also different sizes 13/16 or 3/4 head on bolt and same for nut . Hope you get it fixed .

jerseybud

There's 2 sets of bolts holding everything together. There are the big 13/16 head ones holding the plate to the frame. Then there are 4 smaller bolts holding the plate to the steering box-these are hidden. At some point, the steering box will be free of the truck to get to them.
I suppose you could leave the steering column connected while a friend supports the box against a block or wood or the tire, and you get the bolts for the plate to the box.

bobva

YOU need to remove the box from the draglink and steering shaft and lines.

You will never get the bolts off or on that hold the plate to the box unless Arnold Schwarzenegger Is there wearing his T2 costume. The box needs to be clamped or wedged in place to do that,

maybe368

The bolts that hold the plat to the box need to be very tight, the exact torque escapes me right now. If they are not tight enough, the entire assembly moves as you steer...Mark

Rick 12v CTD

Also, locktite the bolts that hold the plate to the box or they will inevitably come loose. When I changed mine they came loose several times, even with locktite.

As a fair warning, this is not a fun job. As others have outlined, it's really difficult to break the bolts free that hold the plate to the box as they are very tight. I would bring a big hammer and the longest wrenches you have.

j_martin

Gear to frame bracket 130 ft. lbs.
Frame bracket to frame 165 ft. lbs.
Pitman Shaft nut 185 ft. lbs.

From the '93 FSM

DOZENVALVE

JESUS. I don't feel like I have the time or resources for this here. J may end up having my truck towed

The power steering mess and such, needing to be able to hold the box right while getting the box to bracket bolts off.... It's not like I have a vice here. Be any easy project back in my garage

j_martin

Perhaps get the steering box and plate off the truck. Take it to a local mechanic or even tire shop and get the plate impact wrenched off and the new plate installed likewise, guessing at the torque, or if in a shop actually doing it right. Then put the assembly back on the truck.

Hydraulics will auto purge when you put it back together. Other than keeping sand and such out of the fittings, easily accomplished with food bags and rubber bands. It's not a real big problem. You might have to buy or rent a cheap pitman puller so you don't fuddle the pitman seal.

On towing. A reputable shop should be able to R&R that plate in a couple of hours max. Cost would be a tow and two hours or so labor. Might be worth it just to get home reasonably if there's a decent shop anywhere close.

I have Good Sam roadside insurance, so I can get my rig, all 65 feet of it if necessary, towed to anywhere within 100 miles. Haven't needed it yet, but with driving these old things I'm sure I will.

I have Good Sam travel assist also, so if something mechanical goes to heck on me, I can get shipped, by air if necessary to proper help.

bobva

J-Martin beat me to my exact thoughts. except dont pull the pitman from box pull draglink from pitman.

My AAA premier card is worth 150 miles.

I got towed for east longveiw to south tacoma no charge. If I need to be towed more than 150 all I pay for is the extra mileage

maybe368

How far do you have to go? You may be able to get it on there as tight as you can and nurse it home. Of course tighten it up at home...Mark

bobva

Ballparking 125miles

Chrome dont get you home.
AAA will I never leave home without it.

DOZENVALVE

I have AAA and I believe I am good for 200 miles. Worst comes to worst, I'll have her towed home. Yeah bob it's only 125 miles-ish. Like to get it fixed here but we will see. I need the truck to get me around the campus while I'm here. Right now I've been limping it around. If I take t apart, I need it back together like.... RIGHT NOW. Or I'm walking. If I get it home to do it I can have the bracket off and in the clear and so weld up the frame where it has cracked. Yes bob the frame hS cracked in the "cruck"