Back when I adjusted my smoke screw out and put in the new stainless socket head capscrews in my AFC top, I ran the starwheel up to flush with the bushing it's threaded onto. Does anyone know how far up the starwheel can be run without any coil bind of the spring below the fuel pin? I guess it's just a matter of adjusting the wheel and manually pushing the fuel pin down to feel for any binding?

 

ya just spend some time checking for full travel of afc cone. i run a green red spring- alittle softer than the black green. ive tested several springs and they make a little difference. i reall try to limit pre boost fuel but once she lights i like the fuel to come quik.

 

I had mine turned all the way up till the other day when I turned my fuel pin back the ungrounded side to limit the smoke a little. It never seemed to bind on me and had great throttle response.

 

Actually, my info was slightly incorrect. My starwheel wasn't quite flush. It was 1, maybe 2 threads down from flush. I ran it up until I couldn't hear the teeth clicking. Thought that might have been a little too far since there was no resistance to keep it from turning either direction (with my luck, it would probably run itself up until it came off). I gave it a 1/2 turn down just after the tabs made contact with the teeth and began clicking again.

Terry, I've given some thought on calling my local fuel injection shop about various springs and it would be interesting to test any that may be available. Since my pump has a green/black spring, I'm assuming the non i/c pumps have the stiffer spring (green/black) and the i/c pumps have the softer of the 2 springs (green/red). Bottom-end smoke is minimal as long as I'm not lugging it and heavy in the throttle from a slow roll in 3rd.

It's cool to watch the boost gauge when the AFC begins to fuel hard. Sometimes it almost seems to jump when I'm rolling hard into the skinny pedal.

I gave my fuel screw 1 more turn today and am trying to tune my AFC to help the governor do it's job. Somehow, turning the starwheel up helped the following issue from the last time I turned up the pump. My pump responded oddly to the fuel screw adjustment. With the 366 spring, the flyweights have more tension to overcome. Because of that, the RPM's increase faster and easier after a certain RPM (if that makes sense) before the governor can take over. If I were to free-rev and try to hold RPMs above 2,000, I have to very, very lightly feather the throttle.

I've also thought that, because turning the fuel screw in changes the point at which the spill port on the plunger is exposed, would running the stock governor spring remedy the touchy throttle. I don't see why it couldn't continue to fuel above 3,000RPM if the high idle screw is backed out. Any thoughts about trying this?

After the additional turn on the fuel screw, I took it out for a test drive and let things warm up before jumping on it. While I was accelerating onto the freeway, running through the gears, I goosed her quite a bit in 5th. I was probably 3/4 throttle and happen to glance at my boost gauge and it read 39-40psi. I didn't push it any harder and backed out to shift into 6th. Smoke is hardly any more than what I've seen in the past.

Thanks to good ol' SoCal traffic, I didn't have much of a chance to really get on it and see if there was any more power than before, according to my seat-of-the-pants dyno. But seeing the boost gauge tells me it's pushing more fuel.

We'll have to see how much it gained at the next dyno run. I've been contemplating buying a set of DDP or SDX 5x.014s and turning the fuel screw back down 1 turn, then dyno again. That would/should give me an accurate HP increase from the injectors alone on top of what I put down last August.

Whew, that was a lot. Sorry fellas!