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Something doesn't look right, some help please!!

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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 08:27 PM
  #16  
BearKiller's Avatar
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What is wrong with just running it ??

If you hadn't pulled the cover to do the KDP, would you have ever suspected anything was amiss ??


It may have ran for years and no one any wiser.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 08:59 PM
  #17  
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are any of you killer bolts missing? I just wonder what caused it, like one of the previous posters said, that somethings stopped before the crank.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 09:00 PM
  #18  
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If the crank gear tried to shear the key wouldn't the timing be off too?
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 09:53 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by scottsjeeprolet
If the crank gear tried to shear the key wouldn't the timing be off too?
Looking at the pic, the crank has moved about a half a tooth (based on the fact
that the space is about the width of a tooth) toward the advance. (I think) So you are the first on your block to jump your timing a half tooth . If I didn't figure right, then a half tooth retarded is easy to compensate for. I vote for run it, or if you are worried, drop a good weld tack on it, as Wanna suggested...Mark
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 09:59 PM
  #20  
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Going back and looking at images of when I did the cam thing, I find my crank-pin looks OK. >WHEW<

Yours, not so much . . .

Name:  CrankCamIndexing.jpg
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 10:06 PM
  #21  
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From: chardon ohio
that may be alright i know on the big trucks cummins used an offset key on the crank to set the timming not sure on the 6bts thought
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 03:02 PM
  #22  
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From: extreem southern ILL
Thats kinda how you do it on a small block chevy when you advance the timming on the cam gear, you have offset inserts for the cam pin. but i have never seen anything like that on a crank, i know it ain't the same thing but on a briggs-straton if you hit a root or somthing it will half way sheer the timming key and they won't start, sorry i'm just rambling.
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 05:50 PM
  #23  
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i say run it, if it doest work you will still have all the peices, maybe more lol
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 09:02 PM
  #24  
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From: McCook, Nebraska
How about something like this?

http://nebraskacowman.com/talk/viewt...p?f=11&t=10127
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 02:01 AM
  #25  
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From: chardon ohio
http://www.search-autoparts.com/sear...l.jsp?id=29483
read the keeping things timed
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 11:25 AM
  #27  
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Just remember your cam timing is affected also. I have no idea of how close piston to valve clearance is.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 08:44 PM
  #28  
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From: Alberta, Canada
WOW, 57 pages back in time and I finally got some help to fix this problem.

I was fortunate to have "Nosparkplugs" answer my call. He is a true dyed in the wool excellant member on this forum!!!!!

I was wondering how I was going to fix this and had some good suggestions and and ideas.

Instead of pulling the crank I ground a groove in the gear and split it off.

http://Name:  DSCF0019.jpg
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I used a 4 1/2" angle grinder and screwed around with a zippy disc until I found the right diameter of the disc to get the job done. 3 1/4" is the perfect size.

I also placed a piece of pipe on the crank in case the grinder jumped and marred the crank while I was grinding.

I moved the crank so the key way was at about the 11 o'clock position and removed the inner timing case bolt that was in the way (the same one that let go and caused all this grief!!!)

I slowly ground in the slot over the key and once I figured it was good enough a couple of taps with a cold chisel popped it.

A bit of wiggling and it came right off.

Then Luke and I heated the new gear in the oven to 350 degrees for a few hours and we set it into the correct timing marks on the crank.

Instead of beating on it we used a two pieces of 2 1/2" inner diameter pipe. 1/8" wall and one measured 1" thick and the other 1/2" thick.

We placed the the 1" piece on the crank behind the harmonic balancer and used the stock bolts with an impact to slowly press the gear on. Once the 1" piece was too short we inserted the 1/2" piece with the 1" piece and it put the gear perfectly into place!!! VERY VERY SLICK!!!!

It maybe took us 20 min start to finish.

Oh yeah..... We had to drill the remainder of the locating pin out of the crank first. I was sweating pretty good thinking it was just not going to work but sheer "your going to work got the job done" I can't even imagine having to get that broken piece of pin out if the drilling didn't work. I was drilling at a horrible angle as well.

Again my thanks to Luke. Stellar fella indeed!!!!

Now off to the head gasket and I wrapped up the fuel pump today.

Should have it back on the road in a week or so and get ready to tackle the next set of problems. (no doubt headed my way)

Hope this can help someone else out and again thanks to all for your help and ideas!!!

P

Last edited by BC847; Feb 9, 2011 at 09:09 PM. Reason: Language
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 02:03 AM
  #29  
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Right on there BigBully...Glad one of the members was finally able to come to your rescue...and good on ya there Nosparkplugs!!!
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 07:58 AM
  #30  
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Sounds like surgery procedure... A blessing you had Luke help you out on this one!
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