For those of you that have been here, I have 4 questions: 1. As far as time frame to get this fixed, is this very urgent; like am I looking at costly damage with a slight leak? 2. Directly at mid point of the block, just forward of the turbo. Any tips to simplify R&R? 3. I've seen a ton of aftermarket billet freeze plug replacement that work like a drywall toggle anchor concept. Who's design did you go with and why? 4. Should I be doing all plugs while I'm at it or replace only the one that's toast? When I say slight leak I mean I noticed it 2 weeks ago and only had to put in 8oz of antifreeze back into the overflow tank to get it to max level. Thanks for assistance in advance

 

I've rarely heard of freeze plugs coming out unless the coolant has frozen and pushed it out. If it does come out you'll dump your coolant fast and could do some damage from overheating. Most problems I've seen was that the plug corroded through and it will eventually get to the point you'll have to change it but you should be able to go for a while, just keep an eye on it. My freeze plug just ahead of the turbo has the block heater in it, if that's whats leaking in yours a new o ring and good cleaning should fix it. If it's a regular freeze plug I'd replace it with a regular drive in plug. Easiest access is to pull the exhaust manifold which can be a lot of work and new gaskets. You should be able to pull your inner fender and get good access from below. Inner fender can be removed with a hand full of bolts with out having to remove the outer fender. I usually remove the wheel and front shock to give a bit more working room to wiggle the inner fender out. Good luck

 

Make sure to replace it with a brass freeze plug and not a steel one and remove the old one from the block, gas station mentality is to hammer it into the block and then install the new one.
I would make it a weekend project and replace everything that I could get to.

Install it cup side out using a 1/2" drive socket and extension if you need them.

You would be surprised how many people try to install them backwards.
Jim

 

Please don't attack me for this, but. if you stop putting water in your antifreeze, you will never have these problems again, just sayin'...Mark

 

Not attacking you, but 70% antifreeze & 30% water is ideal for freeze protection.
50 / 50 will cool a bit better & not freeze in 99% of situations.
100% water will cool the best & rust the worst.

 

That may be true, but the water corrodes stuff, my vehicles don't have any corrosion in any of the cooling components. That is my point. I have not had any corrosion caused failures in any of the many vehicles that I have owned in at least thirty years...Mark

 

So, hey, thanks for all the responses. To clarify, from what I got out of all the comments, and correct me if I am mistaken, is that to punch the plug so it spins sideways to the center of the hole, then pull out with pliers is the best way to remove the rusted plugs, correct? So no slide hammer needed? Also, other than the price tag of the billet plugs that are tightened with a "toggle", is that why you suggested going back to ordinary plugs? Lastly, I've been reading up on this problem and see folks that install a coolant bypass kit that relieves pressures from the #6 Cylinder as a preventative measure for the rear plug going, or any for that matter. Other than the hefty price tag, what are all your thoughts on this?

 

Never heard of this.
Before I bought my truck from a friend, I had been parked for 18-24 months because it pushed out that back freeze plug, that was an expansion plug!
He replaced it with a new expansion plug and it pushed that out almost as soon as it warmed up.
I put a New freeze plug in and its still there after 25,000 miles

 

good luck

 

I have always used these 2 terms interchangeably, what is the difference?...Mark

 

Expansion plug is a rubber plug with a washer on each side and a bolt through it. When you tighten the bolt the rubber plug gets squished and tightens up in the hole.

 

In all of the years that I have been a mechanic, (over 40 years) I have heard and used the terms Freeze Plug, Core Plug, Soft Plug, Welch Plug (a flat convex shape disc), Expansion Plug with all of them pertaining to the same thing, something to close the holes in the water jacket from when the engine block and head were formed.

The Welch plug was originally designed in the 1900s by the Welch brothers at the Welch Motor Car Company

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freeze_plug
http://www.hubbardspring.com/subcate...ansion%20Plugs

http://www.hubbardspring.com/

The rubber expansion plug I think was only meant as a temporary fix, I have never used them but I have removed a lot of them.

What I have found is that most people do not keep their engine clean and leak free like I do and being rubber, oil in time will soften and swell the rubber and cause it to leak or blow out.

They are also used because most of the time the leaking plug is in an inaccessible spot on the engine where there is no room to swing a mallet to drive them.

The way that I remove them is to tap them on one side and turn one end 90* into the water jacket leaving the opposite end protruding past the block, then I use a pair of medium size Channelocks with the jaw open to hook the inside of the cupped plug and prying against the block and pull it out.

Replacing the plug I use a 1/2" socket that fits tightly inside the plug and tap it into the core using a short handle sledge, be careful of your fingers, if you have room use a deep socket.

If the is access to the outside through a fender well I use a few extensions and hammer on it from the outside. They only go in till they are flush with the lip of the hole.

Remember, the plug has a tapered fit and has to be driven in from the closed side first and never try and tap it in from the outside edge or it will be deformed, that it why to use the socket.

When working on cars I have retrieved several old rusted steel plugs from inside the water jacket from where they were just hammered in, this is Gas Station Mechanic and Shade Tree Mechanic work.

Anything left inside the water jacket will impede the flow of the coolant and can cause hot spots.

If you have an Air Chisel there is an attachment to install them.
http://www.otctools.com/products/fro...-installer-set

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4604/overview/

You should be able to rent one from our local Auto Parts.

I had to install Welch plugs in my sons 1962 Cadillac engine when we were restoring it,
If you ever have the occasion to install one, make sure you hit them hard enough in the convex crown to expand the outer diameter of they might fall out.

Jim

 

Thanks a bunch, guys. I have been monitoring my coolant loss by way of viewing the overflow tank and I had marked the depth with a piece of tape and so far in 3 days it has only gone down a 1/16th or so. I am nearing a drain, flush, and replace for my coolant. I think I will wait to do it then

 

I have also seen it used as a less expensive fix as well. Not having to pull the head to get it covered has it's advantages. At least on the second gens, there is enough room to get back there without pulling the head.

 

Back in the mid 70's I was ask by a friend to fix the leak on their AMC Gremlin, The freeze plug on the back of the head rusted out and I could barely get my hand behind the head so I removed the radio and with a hole saw cut out an access in the firewall and was able to replace it from inside the car.

Jim