Ill start from the beginning. My truck is intercooled. I was running the timing 1/4" past the stock mark. It was running max 36 psi of boost typically. It was also a little loud but i always thought it was the piston lift pump or added timing or the new 4" exhaust. It was a tick-tick-tick noise and it was most annoying/loud going down the highway with your foot in the throttle a little (like driving into a headwind).

So last night i did the KDP/Bolts and i advanced the pump 1 tooth. The marks went from E/o to C/o and then i moved the pump back as far as i could and that was exactly 1/4" behind the stock mark on the timing cover. The best i understand is that the timing should be close (within 1/8" if we were talking pump rotation) of where it was before. If each 1/16" is 1* and 1 tooth is 10* then i think i went from 4* added to 6* added from stock. 10* from the tooth minus the 4* from pulling the pump back. This is fine, im not afraid of a little timing. I did all of this to get better access to my pump.

Now heres my confusion... I go and drive it today and this thing sounds smooth... Its like going from a straight piped gas engine to a gas engine with flowmasters. It's got a mellow sound except the typical straight pipe drone when accelerating. The tick went away while the fuel pressure is the same and i didn't touch the exhaust. Also the boost is 40psi now.

I can only think of 2 things that may have changed it. The information is wrong on pump timing and i have actually retarded it more than it was before or i had a boost leak and when i reinstalled the intercooler i fixed it. I dont know why the boost leak would give me a ticking noise though.

Any opinions? I was hoping people like wannadiesel would have a perspective on this.

 

Funny you should bring this up. I went to retard my timing this morning only to find out the pump was already at its limit of travel in that direction. Can you see the marks without removing the cover?

 

Which marks are you speaking of? The marks on the pump gear may be able to be seen though the oil filler neck's hole if you remove it but i bet youd need a fancy mirror/flashlight combo or a scope of some sort.

 

On the pump gear. Per the FMS pictures, C/o would be correct to advance. Another way to think about it is IF: you have to turn the pump to the head to advance THEN: you have to turn the gear in the opposite direction. Or a socket on a ratchet. The socket being the pump and the ratchet being the gear. You have to turn the ratchet back to keep going forward.

Were your crank and cam gear lined up?

 

The crank and cam have never been messed with so they should be fine. I was the first person to ever get into the timing cover and the only thing i messed with was the pump gear.

I was pretty sure that i did the pump gear right, its just really odd how much smoother things are now.

 

Higher injector pop pressure?
Did you have any idle change when you installed the timing spacer? (thinking internal timing change)
Or maybe you did set it a little less when you tightened it down.
You can try advancing it and see if it returns to how it was.

 

I checked all of the things you listed. Same injectors, idles never changed on me and its right on 1/4" before stock... I didnt want to mess with the timing until i had a reason to think my "theory" on timing is wrong.

 

you have the timing spacer and you jumped it a tooth? how well does that work?

 

subscribe to thread. I am looking at doing this too.

 

it works well... i dont have tons of timing because i backed the pump off so far.

 

You now have me wondering about the effects of not enough timing.

 

or possibly the effects of too much timing before he jumped a tooth? I don't know...

I'm thinking he retarded his timing by jumping it a tooth and rotating the pump so far back. But seeing as how he has the timing spacer I'm thinking with the original bump (before the tooth jump) with the timing spacer was too much timing 4 his current setup?

 

Every truck is going to be different so if the truck feels better and sounds better go with it. I know from looking at where my pump is and where Wannadiesel's is they are about 1/4-1/2" different with mine being closer to the head. Her truck kinda purrs and runs great and mine kinda ticks and runs great but for me it took about 5 small adjustments to get it to where it ran good and does not sound like a powerstroke.

 

That's interesting, Archer. Where is your pump mark compared to stock line? Maybe knowing where you 2 have yours set will give me a better idea on where to start testing.

 

mine is all but pushed to the head. About 5/16 of an inch from the pump top to the head. I would have to measure the pump mark. Let me know if you want me to but just play around with it.