Removing Shifter to Fill Getrag & have questions.
Removing Shifter to Fill Getrag & have questions.
Man, I feel like an idiot to even post this, but I have looked at every .pdf I could find of the Getrag online and still uncertain what the heck I am doing. I am wanting to do the Getrag overfill, and I have bought 3 different hand pumps to pump the oil out of my bottle into the PTO bolt hole. Problem is, the 3 pumps I bought did not work. I then ran a hose through the fill plug up under the hood and got about 3/4 a quart overfilled by forcing it in that way. Then my tranny started leaking from what appeared to be up toward the top. I ended up searching the site and found you could fill through the shifter hole, so I proceeded Sunday evening to remove my shifter and fill by that method and hopefully determine the cause of the leaking as well. My questions are below:
1 - The two screws that hold the shifter in place that keep it from rotating, they are located on each side of the actual shifter housing - One if them the head broke off. I was able to get it out, but am leary of re-using it. No local tranny shops or part houses have this bolt. Any ideas on an outlet for it?
2 - The shifter will not come out! I have removed the two screws mentioned above, as well as the snap ring holding it down, and nothing. Am I totally missing something here?
3 - Is there a seal located under the shifter that I can replace that will keep it from leaking once I get this thing overfilled again? Once again, hard to tell from the exploded views I have seen online.
Again, sorry for such dumb questions, I am just stumped. Oh, and one other piece of info. It has crossed my mind that maybe my shifter setup is different that others. Reason for this thinking is after I cleaned my tranny up, I noticed the Chrysler id tag says in big red letters "REMANUFACTURED" which led me to believe maybe it could have some sort of updated shifting setup. Problem is, I cannot get it out to compair to the exploded views I have found.
Feeling really stupid,
Jeff
1 - The two screws that hold the shifter in place that keep it from rotating, they are located on each side of the actual shifter housing - One if them the head broke off. I was able to get it out, but am leary of re-using it. No local tranny shops or part houses have this bolt. Any ideas on an outlet for it?
2 - The shifter will not come out! I have removed the two screws mentioned above, as well as the snap ring holding it down, and nothing. Am I totally missing something here?
3 - Is there a seal located under the shifter that I can replace that will keep it from leaking once I get this thing overfilled again? Once again, hard to tell from the exploded views I have seen online.
Again, sorry for such dumb questions, I am just stumped. Oh, and one other piece of info. It has crossed my mind that maybe my shifter setup is different that others. Reason for this thinking is after I cleaned my tranny up, I noticed the Chrysler id tag says in big red letters "REMANUFACTURED" which led me to believe maybe it could have some sort of updated shifting setup. Problem is, I cannot get it out to compair to the exploded views I have found.
Feeling really stupid,
Jeff
Jeff,
Dont feel bad, many of us have been there. To remove the shifter, I find I have to pull up on the stick, and tap on the bottom part of it with a hammer. some have good luck pushing down and letting it pop up, but I never have.
In front of the shift tower, you will see a vent cap, or you should see one. You can drill the vent tube with a 5/16bit and tap it for 1/8NPT. Then buy a barbed fitting, install it, and put a hose on the end of that and run said hose up into engine bay. This will allow your trany to vent without making a mess all over the place.
I bought a CV boot kit (forget the p-n offhand, maybe I can find it) from my local parts store and installed it. Same for the "special" bolt- I used a standard metric bolt of the right size and length, trimmed the end as needed, and pulled the boot down over it.
Daniel
Dont feel bad, many of us have been there. To remove the shifter, I find I have to pull up on the stick, and tap on the bottom part of it with a hammer. some have good luck pushing down and letting it pop up, but I never have.
In front of the shift tower, you will see a vent cap, or you should see one. You can drill the vent tube with a 5/16bit and tap it for 1/8NPT. Then buy a barbed fitting, install it, and put a hose on the end of that and run said hose up into engine bay. This will allow your trany to vent without making a mess all over the place.
I bought a CV boot kit (forget the p-n offhand, maybe I can find it) from my local parts store and installed it. Same for the "special" bolt- I used a standard metric bolt of the right size and length, trimmed the end as needed, and pulled the boot down over it.
Daniel
That odd that the hand pumps did not work, I got mine I think at chacker. What I did was I took out one of the top bolts from the PTO plates on the side of the transmission and pumped the oil up in there with a hand pump and a hose connected to it, works great. Same thing as you. What do you mean that the pumps did not work? I have heard from somewhere about filling it by the shifter but have never atempted it.
Thanks Daniel for the quick reply. I will check that vent out and for sure be getting the hammer out!
The pumps I got just flat out would not pump. Two "Bulb" type pumps, like you would find on a boat motor tank primer, and one that you were suppose to submerge the actual pump in the oil. Tried priming them all every different way and gave up. Don't get me wrong though, they were all cheap-o's from O'Reillys etc.
The pumps I got just flat out would not pump. Two "Bulb" type pumps, like you would find on a boat motor tank primer, and one that you were suppose to submerge the actual pump in the oil. Tried priming them all every different way and gave up. Don't get me wrong though, they were all cheap-o's from O'Reillys etc.
I use a regular suction gun, about two cupfulls per stroke, same body as a grease gun. Might be easier to get two wheels on one side up to tilt the truck. Good luck on getting that shifter off the top. If you think it's tough getting off, wait 'til you start getting it back on. ... there are ways but it takes a lot of downward force in a little space, then gently pop that big circlip back in... :-> ...D
I over fill mine thru the shift tower because to me its easier than laying under the truck working a hand pump....and you wont find an exploded veiw on teh FSM because the shift tower assymbly is a seperate part from teh transmision .. there were two styles used, the dif being the shift handle mounting style. One threaded onto the shift lever, the other bolts to it.
I have never completly removed the side-bolts, and actually you can remove the shift lever without touching them... remove the snap ring and work the lever back and forth thru the nuetral position, after a few seconds it will pop up and can be lifted out. then loosen them about half way to ease reinstalling the shift lever later. Add the oil( slowly so as to let it ooze in without overflowing). Place the shift lever back in place and push down HARD
rocking it slightly from side to side will help it go into place. Now is the hard part.. either have a friend( or use your third hand) to hold the lever down while you replace the snap ring or pad the end of it with a thick towel( wifes fluffy bath towels work well) and lean on it with your chest while you replace the snap ring... then retighten teh side bolts and replace the boots and cover...
easy right?
I have never completly removed the side-bolts, and actually you can remove the shift lever without touching them... remove the snap ring and work the lever back and forth thru the nuetral position, after a few seconds it will pop up and can be lifted out. then loosen them about half way to ease reinstalling the shift lever later. Add the oil( slowly so as to let it ooze in without overflowing). Place the shift lever back in place and push down HARD
rocking it slightly from side to side will help it go into place. Now is the hard part.. either have a friend( or use your third hand) to hold the lever down while you replace the snap ring or pad the end of it with a thick towel( wifes fluffy bath towels work well) and lean on it with your chest while you replace the snap ring... then retighten teh side bolts and replace the boots and cover...
easy right?
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Bay far, the easiest way to do it is with a long length of vinyl tubing and a funnel. Get about 6 feet of 3/8" viny tubing from Ace or Home Depot. Cost less than a buck a foot, I think. Stick one end in the PTO bolt hole (scrunches in there for a nice tight fit). Run it up and out the fenderwell. Stick a funnel in the other end and duct tape it to the top of the fender. Now stand there and just pour away. Easy peasy. You could also run it up into the engine bay and find somewhere the funnel will sit securely all by itself.
If you are going to drill out the vent and re-tap for a barb-fitting, just go ahead and drill/tap for at least 1/2", with 5/8 or 3/4 even better.
Clamp on a hose that goes up the fire-wall, inside the engine compartment.
Funnel in the oil through the hose.
Devise a removable venting cap for the hose.
tranny fluid
I just put a 1/2 inch by 1 1nch nipple in place of my filler plug with a 90 degree elbow on it and a 2 1/2 inch nipple on top with a cap on it. I do still have to get under the truck but the 2 1/2 inch nipple still leaves me enough room to use a small funnel while pouring the quart bottle
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