NOT a lockup converter, and it is in fact a 518 in 92

 

You should at least update to the steel planets.

 

Not to hijack, but what is the consensus on the planetaries? I know the aluminum 4 pinion front and OD`s are prone to wear/failure but what about the rear gearset? Is it worth spending the $$$ on a 5 pinion there also?

 

It's been a long time since I had my 93. I forget. What are we talking about?
I just did a 518 to a 48. All you really need are the correct base steels. The rest come in the kits. Frankly I don't spend too much time putting years to models. I jst know what to use where and build 'em.

Ahh Hah! Like I said, I forget. I have a 6 speed now so I kinda turned off the past except for the 518's. I don't even use a book I've don so many of them. . .

They make 5 roller steels for these? Wow! About time. You need to replace the drums too?

 

that is the BEST upgrade.

do not put in red eagles unless your racing.Use stocker/rebestos
buy the billet up grade kit from TCS lever/band/strut

a good converter
deep pan and thats good for 350hp.............anymore then that

 

My buddy daily drives a 90 with red devil clutches in it & it shifts great, not too hard not too soft. with 750tq if you slip the stock clutches one time they're done

 

Went to visit the trans shop.

To say the least, I was a bit disappointed.


He didn't seem interested in doing the work... and said he needed to talk to his partner who also works the shop, but wasn't there.

I couldn't tell whether he was just not really wanting to do the job, or if he was just not into the dodge transmissions.

He said that it was a crap shoot for the steel planetaries, and that it would be way too cost prohibitive to refit the trans with the 48rh guts, as they'd be piece mealing the job, and he wasn't interested.

He wanted to use a local converter company vs goerend unt, and said what you guys said about a $650 converter. To me, that is a little weird that everyone focuses on the dollar amount, vs what the actual specs are.

I received an email back from goerend, and they said that they had a converter for $650 that drops the revs 300rpm and is good for "mountain towing". Don't really do much towing, as of now, there's not even a hitch on it. They want the old one back and charge a $300 core charge on it. Here I am thinking I was buying .....or thinking of buying new.

I guess not.


In the mean time, I'm going to try the pentiometer trick and see what happens. That after I drop the pan, change the fluids, adjust the bands (per the sticky) and install my new air cooled deep pan and new chrysler gasket.

If the problem persists, I guess I have to find another trans shop.


BTW, I called the fairfield guys, but they didn't even answer the phone as either it's a holiday or they didn't like phone numbers from central NJ


Thanks to all who posted, as I learned a lot from you guys, as always.

 

What is the problem you are having with the trans T?

 

When I bought the truck, the TPS was acting up.

It's reading was below the .6 @ low stop on the fp, engine off, key on. Spec is between .6 and 1.2, I believe (it's in the sticky). So I adjusted it, and the upper limit was within the 2.25 to 2.75 spec as well.

Went on a long 5 hour drive to see how it did with all of the improvements / work I've done, and on the 4.5 hour mark, the trans.... @ 70mph lost 4th gear, as the pedal wasn't responding any longer, unless I took my foot off, and it was back. This happened all the way home (about an hour).

When I got back home, the spec was still the same @ the base # but the upper limit was @ 4.88.... which didn't make a whole lot of sense to me. So far, it hasn't acted up and is working "normal"... but I haven't driven it for more than a 1/2 hour or so since.

I wanted to update / ensure my trans wasn't going to fail.... before it failed I should say, so that's why I wanted to research the rebuild of the trans. With today's episode with the local tranny guy, I just was a little turned off, as once you tell them you have a plow..... they're all of a sudden, not interested. Go figure.

So, in my mind, I'm going to do the flush, adjust bands, install deep pan, and clean out the existing TPS as in the sticky. Re-adjust and see what happens. If it's still out of whack, I'm going to eliminate the TPS, and go with the pentiometer, and see how that goes. If it goes well, I'm just going to drive it for a while, and see what happens next. If it doesn't go well, then I'm just going to have to have it rebuilt somewhere else that I can hopefully find...

Unfortunately, I don't know anyone in the industry any longer, as I switched to the home / construction biz about 15 years ago.


T.

 

it sounds like a bad TPS or just out of adjustment. turn the 10.. headed nut under it just a little.

all you need is a stock rebuild with steel planataries and a trango shift kit.
if they can't handle that then they suck big time.

goerend is over rated there are other options dunrite/specrite/TCS/suncoast.

you dont need a super lower stall.

if you run a huge stall when it shifts it will be a huge drop in rpm and if you dont have the power it will feel like its always lugging and if you have lots of power you my just break the input or strip out the planatary.there is a happy medium. stock to 300hp leave it stock
300-400 upgrade the 518 as $$ can allow
400+ put a built billet lock-up in.

its that simple

but that being said the stock converter is junk. my TCS 89h put the power to the ground WAY better right up untill it stripped the planataries