I've read some where on here about re torquing the head to 125 lbs. I looked through the sticky & didn't see on this. Whats your feelings about this & whats the proper procedure?

The motor in question does or WILL have;
DDP 80 hp, 55 LPM injectors
3200 spring
S300 turbo
turned up injection pump
low pressure lift pump
3 piece pulse exhaust manifold
4" exhaust
bumped timing
& a lot of gauges


Thanks guys!!
Jim

 

USE EXTREME CAUTION. I just tried this and snapped the bolt that goes through the #3 cylinder rocker pedestal. But others have had good luck doing this.

 

before you torque them down you should check to see if they are stretched and replace any that are before torquing down so you don't have any breaking. I've also read that the torque should be 115 hot or 125 cold. Which is different than aftermarket studs which I think are 125 hot or 135 cold.
Or something like that...

 

Factory studs? If so...leave them be!
Recently installed, different story.

RJ

 

yeah thats what i say, if they're factory, then i wouldn't mess with them. You must already have it broke in and have a good seal. I wouldn't risk breakin an 18 year old bolt thats seen a lot of heating and cooling. Just save up and buy some studs and O-ring it.

 

whats oringing?

 

Sounds like a good plan! If it not broke don't fix it.
Thanks again guys!!
Jim

 

Torque to 125 lb-ft cold, have spare bolts in case any snap or stretch (they'll turn way past the others (1/4 turn or more)) Torque with oil or assembly lube.

 

back the bolts out one at a time if your gonna retorque them... measure what it takes to loosen them... Tighten them back up to that, and go up from there once they are all cleaned/lubed. You want clean threads on both the bolt and in the block. Use lube. Mark the top of the bolts. If one turns more than the others, replace it.

Usually lots of crap gets into the head bolts (rust, soot, oil). Just tightening them is cutting your chances real close to snapping bolts and getting an uneven torque on the head.

Good luck.