Ramcharger Re-Power (Project Cummcharger)
08-07-2010, 10:15 AM
#92
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It's funny because Nick loses my phone number every other day even after i give it to him so i could prank call him and him not even know it's me 
08-07-2010, 12:08 PM
#94
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How it looks now
This is how i did my shackle flip
I'm thinking about lowering the front spring perch 1", it should allow the pinion angle to be closer to factory spec.
I used the upper front hole as a reference point, and the lower front hole was elongated to position the bracket on the frame. I then drilled out the rear two holes and bolted everything together. It is much easier to assemble the shackle and perch off the vehicle, unless you want to cut another hole in the frame to slide the bolt through
08-07-2010, 03:00 PM
#96
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Thanks, i'm trying to do somewhat of a nice job, since i will be the one driving it :-D
I'm looking to buy some cooper stt tires... maybe 33 or 35s. Then there is a NICE set of mud tires up north i'm just waiting for the owner to get some free time on his hands to drive them 1/2 way down for me :-D.
Today i washed/cleaned the paint and chrome on the truck. I also detailed the windows and engine bay. I stripped the engine bay of anything pertaining to a gas motor, that i couldn't use for a diesel. I have a few questions that i'll ask later about a few hoses that need hooking up. I then added the diesel fan box insulation and secured it with some nice galvanized screws that will be switched out for stainless in a little while.
I'm looking to buy some cooper stt tires... maybe 33 or 35s. Then there is a NICE set of mud tires up north i'm just waiting for the owner to get some free time on his hands to drive them 1/2 way down for me :-D.
Today i washed/cleaned the paint and chrome on the truck. I also detailed the windows and engine bay. I stripped the engine bay of anything pertaining to a gas motor, that i couldn't use for a diesel. I have a few questions that i'll ask later about a few hoses that need hooking up. I then added the diesel fan box insulation and secured it with some nice galvanized screws that will be switched out for stainless in a little while.
08-07-2010, 11:32 PM
#97
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Looking at these pictures again... the rear tires being soo skinny just makes this thing look awkward. I need to find a set of cheap big tires to slap on her.
08-08-2010, 12:11 AM
#100
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Okay.
If you have the '91 DIESEL sender MODULE (the whole assembly), remove it from the old diesel tank.
If you look at it, you'll see 2 oversized phillips-headed screws on the slots in the tin, take those out and CARFULLY spin the tin part of the module 1/2 turn around, to line the slots back up again.
BE CAREFUL to make sure that the draw-straw line turns along with it, which it should.
MAKE SURE THE WIRES INSIDE DO NOT TANGLE!
UNPLUG THEM IF IT LOOKS LIKE THEY MAY, AND RE-CONNECT THEM AFTER THE TURN IS MADE.
The reason for turning it 1/2 turn is so that the float and wire doesn't hit the front wall of the RamCharger tank.
BEFORE you pull the old module out of the RC's tank, make a note of WHERE the fuel and return line nipples are and aim them the same way, as the diesel module's alignment marks will no longer be accurate.
One cool thing, you can use the stock RC fuel lines from the tank to the engine, but you'll need to make the short rubber lines to mate up to the fuel pump and return.
If any of this is confusing, CALL me at 402-780-5127, I'll be more than happy to guide you through it.
I'm usually up too late for most.
Mark.
If you have the '91 DIESEL sender MODULE (the whole assembly), remove it from the old diesel tank.
If you look at it, you'll see 2 oversized phillips-headed screws on the slots in the tin, take those out and CARFULLY spin the tin part of the module 1/2 turn around, to line the slots back up again.
BE CAREFUL to make sure that the draw-straw line turns along with it, which it should.
MAKE SURE THE WIRES INSIDE DO NOT TANGLE!
UNPLUG THEM IF IT LOOKS LIKE THEY MAY, AND RE-CONNECT THEM AFTER THE TURN IS MADE.
The reason for turning it 1/2 turn is so that the float and wire doesn't hit the front wall of the RamCharger tank.
BEFORE you pull the old module out of the RC's tank, make a note of WHERE the fuel and return line nipples are and aim them the same way, as the diesel module's alignment marks will no longer be accurate.
One cool thing, you can use the stock RC fuel lines from the tank to the engine, but you'll need to make the short rubber lines to mate up to the fuel pump and return.
If any of this is confusing, CALL me at 402-780-5127, I'll be more than happy to guide you through it.
I'm usually up too late for most.
Mark.
Last edited by Mark Nixon; 08-08-2010 at 12:13 AM. Reason: Wires may tangle!!!
08-08-2010, 12:17 AM
#101
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Thanks mark, i wont be using the factory fuel or brake lines. I ripped all that out the other day in way for new stuff. I'm going to either mess with the fuel/brake systems tomorrow or try and stuff the motor into the truck(its taking up garage space). I'm almost sure i know what your talking about. I'll have to take a closer look tomorrow when there is light again. I currently have a quota of beer to be drinking, and a little bit of planning now, will go a long way tomorrow when i start getting frustrated because this broke or that doesn't fit. Or the vent bolt broke off in the axle or the suspension bolts i need to reuse up front won't come loose... you know what i'm talking about.
08-08-2010, 12:33 AM
#102
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When I did mine I had it off the frame and was able to plot out the order of things.
Of course, I did the fuel lines and brake lines (Originals from TEXAS ), axles, rear wiring harness and set the engine/trans/transfer case in, all with the body removed.
Putting the body back in 1 piece, no front clip OR damage, was a 3 man chore by a double-sized man.
Unfortunately, with your donor's underpinnings, you have 1 pound of RUST per 4 pounds of metal.
That makes EVERYTHING a PITA.
I hate the idea of getting tetanus from just LOOKING at a vehicle, much less from a "rust shower".
Mark.
Of course, I did the fuel lines and brake lines (Originals from TEXAS
), axles, rear wiring harness and set the engine/trans/transfer case in, all with the body removed.Putting the body back in 1 piece, no front clip OR damage, was a 3 man chore by a double-sized man.
Unfortunately, with your donor's underpinnings, you have 1 pound of RUST per 4 pounds of metal.
That makes EVERYTHING a PITA.
I hate the idea of getting tetanus from just LOOKING at a vehicle, much less from a "rust shower".
Mark.
08-08-2010, 12:37 AM
#103
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brandon you post was here just a minute ago... your posts keep disappearing from my sight... i think someone is interfering because we have communication problems on here for some strange reason.
Yeah don't worry mark, 8 or so years ago i had my 3rd tetanus shot and those cuts i have gotten recently are mostly healed now and my jaw is just sore from eating too much beef jerkey...
Yeah don't worry mark, 8 or so years ago i had my 3rd tetanus shot and those cuts i have gotten recently are mostly healed now and my jaw is just sore from eating too much beef jerkey...