Ok I've stated in my pump problem thread I was at wits end. I have gone back and started over. Maybe I've discovered something but not sure. When the top is off the pump can you turn the gear the governor weight are attached to??? I just tried this and the gear and the flyweights spin freely with no resistance. Normal or pull the pump???
HELP!!!!

 

Anybody? Nobody?

 

After hours and hours of videos and reading I "think" the rubber I've found so far has come from the lower governor drive gear cushion drive rubbers. This has to be the reason for the weird idle issues and the weird revving up issues. Am I on track?? I think the cushion rubbers are called buffers they are #15 on Jim Lanes pump sticky on the Bosch pump diagram blow-up!! But I'd really like to have some of you pump gurus chime in here please!!

 

I'm in the middle of resealing my pump, I'm no expert but I'll chime in. The Gov should not spin freely inside the pump, it is directly connected to the main shaft and secured by two little rubber insulators. There will be a small bit of play in the Gov gear as a good set of insulators will absorb a little movement. If those insulators are missing, it will spin freely. If the rubber insulators have come apart and are through out the pump, better pull it apart and clean it out. These pumps are extremely easy to repair. Here are some pics of the gear and insulators.

Hope this helps, Mike.

 

Here's a Video...

 

Thanks Mike! I've read for two days trying to figure this all out along with watching all the YouTube vids I could find. My truck was very sick and couldn't figure it out. By accident I found the govenor wasn't turning or was turning. I have the pump off and just now tearing it down. I have found in the last couple of years that the "fine diesel" we are getting is ruining the original rubber parts. I have diesel trucks and everyone has had the cross over lines and rubber fuel lines are getting either brittle or delaminating and cutting fuel supply off! This Dodge I just bought is a pretty nice ride but needs TLC. Well let me get back to work on it and if I run into a problem I will probably hit you up for advise. Many many thanks Mike!!

 

Ok the pump is in few hundred parts. Findings 1. Minor scaring in pump body. 2. A little bit of rubber fines. 3. A spare part that's chewed up lol! It had to have come out of the top of the pump "investigating that now"! Looks like a 5/16" plug that has a hole in it that takes a Allen wrench to tighten. Maybe from somewhere in the smoke pin area. Chime in and give your opinion where it's from. Anyways that's where I'm at now! Calling Abilene diesel injection in Abilene or Tripletts diesel in Waco to get parts. Oh I had the parts in an old Bosch DGK 121 kit. What luck!!! Again thanks Mike for confirming my problem.

 

Ok pump is back together. First one I've done. Wasn't bad, hardest part was reinstalling the head, to many part going in at once. Grease is the trick after many failed attempts. Hope I have it right, lot of work to install not to be right!! Thanks to the good info on DTR and YouTube and the good folks on here.

 

Normally those don't wear out, easy to replace once you get the back block off.

 

I read somewhere not sure where but some guy couldn't find bolts to pull the gear loose on front of his pump, I didn't have any either but being an old school type of guy I looked around and pulled the bolts from my grid heater. A little long but saved a trip to town!! Question?? My timer plunger was stuck, has to tap pretty hard to get it out. Gummed up severally. Cleaned, Emory cloth ect and got it working smooth. It was stuck to the ??high pressure side?? The outboard-fender side. Ok the question is was my timing advanced or retarded? I need lessons on how to post pics-vids ect I guess. Thanks in advance for any help or answers! Oh bannerd a small piece went thru the pump and probably knocked the cushions out. I'm thinking the piece came out of the AFC.

 

Are you talking about the shaft with small holes on it that go into the back side of the pump? Hopefully you didn't emory cloth that part

Would be the shaft number 52.

 

No it was part 31 and the pump case bore. I don't think shaft 52 would be a very good idea. I have a friend that works in a big injection pump service that I talk to about things before I do them. He keeps me out of trouble most of the time. I ask him about this ve and his advise was to jump in feet first. His thinking was I've rebuilt cat pumps before and let him test them, so he said to figure this out but call if I felt uncomfortable doing something. I did call him on the stuck timer plunger but didn't ask about where it was stuck advanced/retarded. But thanks for looking out for me.

 

Ah, yeah 52 is machined part that is very very exact. It's what times everything down the injection lines. 31 is the KSB solenoid, this does advance the timing of the injection pump, usually when it is cold out. It does this by increasing the pump pressure by allowing it to override the regular pressure regulator. You can't really decrease the timing per-say. It's actuated electronically by a temperature switch. When it activates it closes the contacts (depending on the outside temperature) and the KSB takes over.

In theory the temperature switch controls the KSB depending on the temperature and can increase the timing to 8 degrees. If the KSB isn't on there I wouldn't worry to much about it. Pressure would be normalized.

If you live in cold weather.. KSB is a must. I found that out when mine wasn't plugged in!

 

You seem to know these pumps pretty well. I'm learning or trying to. Being late 50's I'm not too scared to try much "my downfall" I guess. I've been reading alot trying to learn how to get the big hp like some have. A future new project I guess. But thanks for looking out for me.

 

If you want big power you should look at a P-PUMP. The VE is nice and with the right combo of injectors and a turbo you can make some decent power. To do it all day long though the P-Pump will help you out. I run a VE pump because I'm just too poor for a p pump.

It's good to learn the VE pump, it's what VW uses in their TD line up and you'll see it on some 4bt marine engines.