pulsing alternator
08-16-2005, 08:33 AM
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pulsing alternator
I am so sick of the pulsing voltmeter I am ready to scream!
It's a new alt and VR. I have run extra grounds, have tried 3 new VR's 2 new alt's.
For the life of me can't find any reason for this.
I am using a 93 alt and VR.
Aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
It's a new alt and VR. I have run extra grounds, have tried 3 new VR's 2 new alt's.
For the life of me can't find any reason for this.
I am using a 93 alt and VR.
Aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
08-16-2005, 11:17 AM
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How high does it pulse? It is going to cycle regularly unless there is a large enough draw on the system that the alternator needs to run constantly. As long as it doesn't charge above 15V I would say it is working as it should.
08-16-2005, 02:07 PM
#5
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Re: pulsing alternator
Originally posted by 59FORD
I am so sick of the pulsing voltmeter I am ready to scream!
It's a new alt and VR. I have run extra grounds, have tried 3 new VR's 2 new alt's.
For the life of me can't find any reason for this.
I am using a 93 alt and VR.
Aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
I am so sick of the pulsing voltmeter I am ready to scream!
It's a new alt and VR. I have run extra grounds, have tried 3 new VR's 2 new alt's.
For the life of me can't find any reason for this.
I am using a 93 alt and VR.
Aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
08-16-2005, 02:50 PM
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Well then it's a 92 Dodge alt with an external VR.
There is NO logical reason for the pulse, no matter how much load you
put on the system, running lights (10 tail lights, 28 clearance), AC,
brakes (10 lights), turns (6 lights)
The pulses are between 12 and 14 volts. It does it all the time, at one
time it was from 12 to 16, that's when I bought a new alternator and VR.
I also had my old alt rebuilt and tried that one. I have had VR's from $6.00
to $30.00 with the same results.
To eliminate the Ford part I ran a hot wire from the battery to a relay, let the
relay trigger the VR to the alt, same results.
I ran a ground from the engine to the frame, battery to the front fender, from
the engine to the VR (which is bolted to the fender)
I am also running 2 volt meters, the factory and another in the gauge cluster.
NO, they are not fed from the same point. The add on VM is straight from the
battery. I have even switched batteries.
Who knows, what the next trick will be.
I did install the 3200 GSK today. I only learned a couple new words for Cummins.
Better go change the sig...............
Later
59
There is NO logical reason for the pulse, no matter how much load you
put on the system, running lights (10 tail lights, 28 clearance), AC,
brakes (10 lights), turns (6 lights)
The pulses are between 12 and 14 volts. It does it all the time, at one
time it was from 12 to 16, that's when I bought a new alternator and VR.
I also had my old alt rebuilt and tried that one. I have had VR's from $6.00
to $30.00 with the same results.
To eliminate the Ford part I ran a hot wire from the battery to a relay, let the
relay trigger the VR to the alt, same results.
I ran a ground from the engine to the frame, battery to the front fender, from
the engine to the VR (which is bolted to the fender)
I am also running 2 volt meters, the factory and another in the gauge cluster.
NO, they are not fed from the same point. The add on VM is straight from the
battery. I have even switched batteries.
Who knows, what the next trick will be.
I did install the 3200 GSK today. I only learned a couple new words for Cummins.
Better go change the sig...............
Later
59
08-16-2005, 03:24 PM
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Are you using a dodge VR or the Ford VR?
On my dad's 93 it stopped charging completely so he put an external regulator on from say an 89 dodge. All it has are 3 progs to hook up and I'm pretty sure that only 2 of them are used. It came with wiring instructions and I believe that it just goes inline of the power wire to the Alt., not the main power but switched power.
What are you doing with the relay?
On my dad's 93 it stopped charging completely so he put an external regulator on from say an 89 dodge. All it has are 3 progs to hook up and I'm pretty sure that only 2 of them are used. It came with wiring instructions and I believe that it just goes inline of the power wire to the Alt., not the main power but switched power.
What are you doing with the relay?
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08-16-2005, 04:08 PM
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The alternator and voltage regulator are Dodge.
Yep 3 prongs only use 2 of them.
I am using the relay to trigger the vr. This removes ANY of the Ford circuit
that would control voltage.
It will pulse with the vr straight to the battery.
Yep 3 prongs only use 2 of them.
I am using the relay to trigger the vr. This removes ANY of the Ford circuit
that would control voltage.
It will pulse with the vr straight to the battery.
08-16-2005, 04:19 PM
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That really doesn't make any sense at all!! Is the system keeping your battery/ies charged? are you blowing any fuses or anything?
I guess if the system is working than just let it be.
You could see if you can mount a chevy alternator with a built in regulator. I've done this on several tractor 6V to 12V conversions, etc...
I guess if the system is working than just let it be.
You could see if you can mount a chevy alternator with a built in regulator. I've done this on several tractor 6V to 12V conversions, etc...
08-16-2005, 05:31 PM
#13
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Have you tried full fielding the VR? Just curious to see what the max alt. output is. Also FWIW (prob not much,lol) a buddy of mine went thru a similar situation several years ago on his car, vehicle in question was a ford grand somethingorother. Long story short, it would charge good for about 2 days and then stop/killing the batt. He went thru about 10 regulators (KEM brand from the local parts store), did the ground wire thing/cleaned EVERY terminal in the circiut/replaced the alt etc.. Turns out it was the el-crappo made in singapore/china/taiwan regulators. He "slpurged" for a genuine Motorcraft regulator and never had another problem....with the charging system anyway,lol.
08-16-2005, 06:06 PM
#15
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I would have to think about this one, but how is your alternator connected to your battery?
Check that wire for a voltage drop between the back of the alternator and the pos. battery post. The ford might be taking a diffrent route or through a shunt if it has a stock ammeter.
The wire might be too small of a gauge. I ran a 4 ga. welding cable from the alternator to the battery with a 200 amp T fuse at the battery.
On our dodges, the wire from the alternator goes directly to the battery. Your battery should be acting as a buffer and absorb most of the pulses coming from the alternator.
How long has this been happening? since the conversion or just recently?
How heavy was the alternator in the ford in ampers compared to the dodge?
Am I to asume you are using a ND 120 amp.
What year was the truck you are using?
BTW before you get too much money into it, you can fix it the way I did. Check my sig.
Jim
Check that wire for a voltage drop between the back of the alternator and the pos. battery post. The ford might be taking a diffrent route or through a shunt if it has a stock ammeter.
The wire might be too small of a gauge. I ran a 4 ga. welding cable from the alternator to the battery with a 200 amp T fuse at the battery.
On our dodges, the wire from the alternator goes directly to the battery. Your battery should be acting as a buffer and absorb most of the pulses coming from the alternator.
How long has this been happening? since the conversion or just recently?
How heavy was the alternator in the ford in ampers compared to the dodge?
Am I to asume you are using a ND 120 amp.
What year was the truck you are using?
BTW before you get too much money into it, you can fix it the way I did. Check my sig.
Jim