In preparation for the fluid damper install
I just installed my Fluidampr on Monday and Tuesday drove it with a load for 250 miles back home. I've gotta be honest, I noticed zero difference in engine smoothness at highway speeds. When I first fired her up it seemed smoother at idle, but I didn't notice a higher rpm difference.
This thread covers most of what you'll need to know for install. I had read that you could do it from underneath without removing the radiator, there is no way I could see to do that on my truck. I used an 1/8" spacer on the fan because that's as big a spacer as I felt comfortable using and still having enough threads to secure the fan. I had to grind a bit off the fan to clear the damper even with that spacer. It was a 36mm service wrench that I had to buy to use to remove the fan, it was reverse threaded.
This thread covers most of what you'll need to know for install. I had read that you could do it from underneath without removing the radiator, there is no way I could see to do that on my truck. I used an 1/8" spacer on the fan because that's as big a spacer as I felt comfortable using and still having enough threads to secure the fan. I had to grind a bit off the fan to clear the damper even with that spacer. It was a 36mm service wrench that I had to buy to use to remove the fan, it was reverse threaded.
Am I correct that in the sticky on Thrashin's install that when Wannadiesel stated that the spacer/shim could be installed inside the fan clutch hub, to be clearer in my head, he is meaning to put a spacer/shim of sme sort "inside" the clutch nut, which in turn would push the fan forward away from the damper? Wheelerfreak, so no results noted except better idle quality?
Am I correct that in the sticky on Thrashin's install that when Wannadiesel stated that the spacer/shim could be installed inside the fan clutch hub, to be clearer in my head, he is meaning to put a spacer/shim of sme sort "inside" the clutch nut, which in turn would push the fan forward away from the damper?
Hey Trashing, what did you do to the factory studs that used to hold the crank sensor bracket? If you replaced the bolts to match the OEM timing cover bolts, what is the pitch, type, length,etc?
Oliver likes to label me Trashy as well.....
Anyway I dug through my pics and it appears as though I used a couple case bolts from my 89 motor to replace the CPS mounting studded bolts. So they would be the proper Cummins OEM fasteners for the timing case.
Sorry I had to change your reference to me....it's not Trashing....but Thrashing. I'm better then trash...
Oliver likes to label me Trashy as well.....
Anyway I dug through my pics and it appears as though I used a couple case bolts from my 89 motor to replace the CPS mounting studded bolts. So they would be the proper Cummins OEM fasteners for the timing case.
Oliver likes to label me Trashy as well.....
Anyway I dug through my pics and it appears as though I used a couple case bolts from my 89 motor to replace the CPS mounting studded bolts. So they would be the proper Cummins OEM fasteners for the timing case.
I like the trashing cows idea.
Brings back memories of when I was in high school and I used to trash talk all the fat girls in my class. Trashing Cows was fun, back then...
8-)
Brings back memories of when I was in high school and I used to trash talk all the fat girls in my class. Trashing Cows was fun, back then...
8-)

Here's a couple numbers off my 93 motor...
CPL # 1579
Engine # 44803630
Hey, thought of something else as preventive maintenance "while I was in the general vicinity". Studying the pics of thrashing's fluid damper install and NJT's kip kill I see there's an expansion plug directly behind the clutch fan seal housing. Anyone replace that while they had the housing off? Curious to know what condition is that plug at, in a 20+ year old truck? I've already replaced the ones above the trans cooler, beneath the turbo. I have 2 new spare plugs. If you have replaced that one, what was the level of difficulty in access to(getting tools in threre to yank out old and hammer in new) ?
The ones I replaced were corroded bad on the inside. So, 1 leaked for sure, and the other 2 were just a few months away from leaking, if I were to speculate. I used those billet aluminum ones that act like a toggle bolt to secure to the block. "O" ringed for leak preventative, easy to remove if I ever have to, and looks good. The maker does not make one for behind the fan clutch housing; I have 2 stainless steel ones from Cummins, though, to use if needed








what did you do to the factory studs that used to hold the crank sensor bracket? If you replaced the bolts to match the OEM timing cover bolts, what is the pitch, type, length,etc?