Have you guys ever heard of these trucks having power troubles like this? Mine drives like you have a sewing machine under the hood some days and others I can't keep the tires on the ground. No change in engine noise or smoke either. It is like driving two different trucks some times, got any suggestions.<br><br>Thanks

 

Paws, if you were to go to the TDR site you would find a thread posted by me on this very subject. I know it's wierd, and it happens to most first gen owners. If I let mine warm up too long it will seem slugish. Sometimes that won't make a difference. It's almost enough to make one want to buy one of those (perish the thought) pointy ugly trucks.<br> There is no patern. The weather makes no effect.<br> I think the location of the planets or stars or both have something to do with it.<br> Or the left handed gonkalator armiture thingy with the yellow handled dohicky might be out of adjustment.<br> Try this on for size. I wash my engine and my grid heaters quit working. I check every thing, clean and treat every connector in the truck, nuthing.<br> Then I clean it again, everything works fine! HUH? WHAT?<br><br> Dave

 

Maybe the guide pin in the AFC housing is sticky...

Bob.

 

If the pin was sticking how bad would the power loss be?

 

I already suspected the pin and it is not the culprit. But I have noticed that ever sence I advanced my timing way up it seems to run more consistent. <br> I have noticed that turned up trucks seem to be a little more finicky.<br> Oh well, if your not happy with the way it's running, just wait a few minutes and it'll run better. <br> Shoulda been a used car salesman huh?<br><br> Dave

 

I would agree with Bob about the AFC pin -- and I am curious how you KNOW that it isn't the problem. I would also suggest running some sort of lubricity additive through the pump -- the governor can get sticky, especially if it is a little worn. And last but not least, do you see fluctuations in your manifold pressure depending on how well she is running -- it would seem to me that you should, AND that the relationship between performance, PSI, and EGT should allow you to determine not enough air or not enough fuel, thence whether it is leaking intake or pump problems . . .<br><br>It could also be something as simple as crud in the fuel tank -- had that problem on another diesel once. A fuel pressure guage would be useful for that diagnosis.<br><br>Just some thoughts, but I wouldn't resign myself to the situation.<br><br>Alec<br><br>

 

It's the FF Restriculator valve - this valve is programed to decrease power in direct proportion to the governments expulsion of hot air. Since I found out about this and removed the valve I have not had any problems. ;D ;D ;D<br><br>Dave I argee since I have increased my timing my truck is much more consistent.<br><br>Bob

 

If it is in fact the guide pin, there will be a very noticable difference in performance. <br>You will not have much in the way of fueling starting from idle on up... it really does make a difference. <br>Dave has been thru this and in his case it's not the guide pin, but those pins seem to have a mind of their own at times.<br>Some days they stick and other times they don't.<br>To check it, you need to remove the little U shaped 'boost tube that hooks to the back side of the AFC housing, then the AFC housing itself. Once that is off, you will see the AFC diaphram (black rubber). Use a pen or something to mark the 12:00 position so you put it back in the same position as it came out.<br>Carefully lift the edges of the diaphram up, and jiggle it up and down. If the pin is stuck in the &quot;out&quot; position, you'll have resistance when trying to remove the diaphram, if it is stuck in, the AFC will just pull straight up and out.<br>Once it is out, remove the spring underneath and look down into the hole that the diaphram/cone came out of.<br>While looking down, slowly cycle (open) the throttle to WOT.<br>If the pin is working properly it should pop out of a little hole from the front of the hole you're looking down into. <br>Use a small flat blade screwdriver to push it back into its hole and repeat a number of times. <br>It should pop out slick as a whistle each time. If not, then it is sticking and you will not be getting off idle fueling, or very little causing low power condition.<br><br>Bob.

 

Bob

What you just described is what I am having trouble with, no power off the line so to speak. I am going to check this out and take off the FF Restriculator valve to morrow I'll keep you guys posted on what happens.

Paws

 

Whats this FF restriculator valve? Do I need to take it off my 93 auto?<br>DM01

 

[quote author=dodgeman01 link=board=9;threadid=13076;start=0#125064 date=1049725351]<br>Whats this FF restriculator valve? Do I need to take it off my 93 auto?<br>DM01<br>[/quote]<br><br>Yeah, if you can find it, take it off and throw it far as you can. No, seriously, Bob was just kidding. ;D

 

:What is the FF restrictor valve? Where is it located? What does it do? And tell me what I can do if there are power problems. Thanks guys, Patrick.

 

I installed a tst plate, but it sounds like I am having this problem, an intermitent realization of the power boost, sometimes great, sometimes slow as a dog. Seems like I have looked at everything else. could you tell me more? thanks

 

Hey guys sorry for the confusion but there is no FF restriculator valve - it was intended as humor <br>BTW FF stands for Foo Foo.<br>Bob

 

Is that valve anything like the Kanooter valve which is related to the Red Tail Light Sparking Oil???? Suckered me in TOO &amp; Ya'll know what pay back is