Hey Guys,
I have another thread running around dealing with my truck not passing emissions. Well, I got my parts from air-flo for the BHAF that is going in and I looked at my turbo, the compressor wheel is quite dirty, was not dirty that long ago. I spun the wheel to see how it was doing and I heard a light tick when it was spinning. Turns out that my turbo has side to side play but not much in and out play. The side play seem to me to be quite substantial.

So could it be possible that I am not producing enough boost to clean the fuel?

If I need to rebuild it is it worth rebuilding? If not help me decide on the best cost effective turbo that will do well with modest pump tweaks.

Any input at this time would be great. I look at it this way, at least I will be able to get rid of the 21 lagmaster

 

its just a matter of time for the turbo . I would eather find an hx35w or an HTT stage 3 with a 16cm. if your sticks are dirty you need them cleaned ,pop tested or get new ones .

is it making to much smoke at wot or not passing the snap test?

 

just wanted to say that if you are going to rebuild the turbo, I would get the parts from http://www.gdsdieselparts.com/ they just told me a rebuild kit for the H1c was about $60.

 

Yeah, I figure it is only a matter of time. My injectors are brand new and have been pop tested. I look at it this way I could buy a used HX35w but depending on condition and price I could be in the same boat near a rebuild. Also if I rebuild it thats 60-100 depending and if I get a 16cm housing thats 100-150 bucks (or a 12). The stage III or IV is about 300-350 (not including shipping). Thats a 600 dollar turbo, I'm trying to get some other ideas of other routes.

Anybody running the PDR HX35? I know its about 700 but if I am going to be spending a hefty amount anyway why not get a turbo that will last.

Thanks for the link I may be giving them a call.

Thanks guys for the reply. Anybody else have an idea?

 

I am in the same boat, my turbo is getting some play and I want to upgrade to stage III or IV.

I could get a used HX35 from the local diesel place for $300ish and have the 12cm wastegate to play with.


So I have been meaning to ask....would I still need to upgrade the compressor of a stock HX35 to have it match the stage III ?

or are we going to be better off rebuilding and upgrading to stage III?



Sorry if I am getting off topic

Also I see that the PDR HX35 does not come with an exhaust housing, not sure if you read that or not.

 

I am also wondering about the question taterfarm asked.

Yeah I saw that the PDR does not come with an exhaust housing. I would love to have that turbo, but looks to be pretty pricey. Anybody running the PDR HX35? If so what are you thoughts?

Thanks any and all help appreciated

 

the stage III that high tech turbos sell is the same as GDS stage II but GDS quoted me 188.95. a lot cheaper than htt but there on back order

 

okay i rebuilt one of my turbos off a truck that was wrecked, took it apart cleaned it put all the new parts in, put it back to geather and then when i put on the compressor housing thw wheel would rub the side. there is no play in the shaft i tryed to switch back plates yet still had the problem, tried a different compressor housing and rubed in the same place.

what could be wrong?

 

Sounds like a bent shaft. Or maybe the bearings aren't seated properly and allowing the shaft to be somwhat off center.

 

i'll pull it apart can check the bearings, the shaft doesn't look bent. but it was off in the same place before it was rebuilt.

 

I am so glad that you asked this because I just rebuilt mine and I am having the same exact trouble. It is starting to worry me, I only hear it rub when I shut the truck off and the turbo is winding down. Let us know what you find to be the problem because I have been wondering whether I need to pull it apart again.

 

well i fount that the center is 8 thousandths out of true, so i changed the center still close in the same spot but no rubbing, it is still off center though dont know why i have seen another this way, don't know what it is, i'm running mine now so i'll see if it rubs

 

Are you checking side play with the motor stopped? Remember there is a pressurized film of oil that centers the wheel shaft in the bearings. The early turbos had more play from what I understand.

 

it has no play brand new bearings, but its not shaft play the wheel is closer to one side than the other, like the back plate needs a shim. thats is where the 8 thousandths out of true is on the center section back plate mating surface.

 

Anybody running the PDR HX35? I know its about 700 but if I am going to be spending a hefty amount anyway why not get a turbo that will last.

QUOTE]I am running PDR's hybrid HX35 combined w/ the 16 cm exhaust housing, and have been for around 3.5 years now. I could never get it over 850 egt's with stocker injectors, and with POD's (for a year now) I finally got the EGT's to 1000. These readings were taken while going WOT up the same hill and with summer weather temps. My sig shows water injection, and it was not in use at the time of comparing temps of stock injectors vs. the POD's. Towing is not a duty for my truck. I like the turbo, for an all around upgrade w/o having to worry about head studs or coolant leaks. Max boost is 30 psi, and I try not to go over 25 psi on the average. Never have had turbo flutter, either.
I might add also, that I used to wonder if something was wrong with my Autometer EGT guage, but I had the same set up(turbo, injectors) with the same guage on my D250 which I just sold. All upgrades were transferred to my W250, so I hope this information helps.