Possible first ever broken np205! (that ive seen)
Possible first ever broken np205! (that ive seen)
well, 15 minutes ago i embarked towards my local circle k for a snack. for the first 3 shifts, i noticed a clank/ vibration but only during shifts. i pulled over and checked driveshaft u joints and motor/trans mounts. nothing wrong. I got driving again same thing. So i decide that before going anywhere i would go back 2 my house and get someone to take along for the ride. 2 heads r better that one. well, after leaving my house, no more noise so i decide i might as well show off the AWSOME sound of my new stack. i take it into 3rd gear to 1600 rpm and let her rip..... for about 5 seconds. then, i hear the click clat rattle rattle grind grind as my motor revs freely. i pulled over around the corner from my house and stopped and tried to put it in another gear trying to limp it back home. same noise. i tried shifting the tcase and noticed it wouldnt shift btwn 4hi and 2hi. it seemed stuck in the middle. i put in in low range and made it a couple of feet. then the same noise. I ran back home grabbed my other truck and towed it back 2 my house. this was now about 25 minutes ago( i type slow.) Well, while you in computer land are reading this im going to go check the oil, look 4 problems, etc. Im hoping its just the shift linkage. any info or help would be gr8 thx. I have only had this tcase for 1500 miles and havnt had time 2 abuse it (yet) the previous truck it was on was stone stock with 230,xxx miles.
Im getting something similar that just started but it only does it in 2HI. Rattles and Clunks sounds terrible but the motor still runs and drives just sounds terrible. If i put it into 4HI the sound goes away. I havent been able to see whats up with it until the weather clears.
Chris
Chris
oil looks fine. had about 2 quarts it it no metal shavings. In 2hi and 4 hi, it grinds like its not engaging all the way. in nuetral, no noise, in 4lo, the truck moves about an inch then the tcase starts slipping again. The shift rails appear to be ok at a glance but i dont know what to look for. i also tried turning my truck off then putting it in a differnt gear. same problem still.
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pulled it off. coupler is worn smooth on the tcase side. tcase splines are heavily worn. i cant afford the 589 dollars for the coupler and input shaft. im just going to buy the coupler for 100$ and hope that the tcase input doesnt get much worse. unless someone can point me in the right direction for something cheaper.
That is a tough call Bogurt. If you're just going to slap a new coupler in there with a worn input shaft it will ruin both again relatively soon depending on driver wear and tear. I vote you turn the fuel screw down below stock levels and release the clutch from breakaway in first with no extra rpm and go from there.
the other thing i might try is getting the new coupler and tig welding it to the input on the tcase. i had a look at it and when i go to pull it apart at a later time, it will still clear the flange even with the coupler welded in place. the splines on the input have enough meat on them that when i put the fresh side of the coupler on it, it feels tight enough to work. This will be a last ditch effort if i cant get the parts by saturday. Im going to more thoroughly scour the junkyards, craigslist, and the 4x4 shops and hopefuly find everything i need.
pulled it off. coupler is worn smooth on the tcase side. tcase splines are heavily worn. i cant afford the 589 dollars for the coupler and input shaft. im just going to buy the coupler for 100$ and hope that the tcase input doesnt get much worse. unless someone can point me in the right direction for something cheaper.
http://www.alltransmission.com/
i've delt with them seam good on prices



