I am finally getting around to rebuilding the rear end on my 1991.5 D250. Need help !!, I have the rear housing cover off, drive shaft off, the pinion nut & yoke off, and the axles out and the 2 Caps (2 bolts on ea. one) off. So now what do i need to do to remove the ring gear assemble, and yes this is my 1st. time to attempt to do this myself (not too proud to ask for help). I will order new parts after i get everything out, "man" it don't look good in there. Any and all help appreciated.

whosdunit.

 

Pry out the whole carrier from the housing. Gently, but may take some force. Put some wood on the ground in case it drops out suddenly.

After you have it out on the bench, you can undo the ring gear bolts and tap it off the carrier.

For the bearings, you either need a puller, or carefully cut them off with a zip disc.

Lots of youtube vids on the subject. Dana 60 or 70 (what you have) are basically the same except for physical size.

 

Hey u2slow, thank you for reply. I have the ring gear & pinion out, it was "TIGHT", fell on a pad i had laid under the rear end. Pinion gear & shaft shot, will need a new one. I think i will replace all of it (it's only money,,, right). This ol' truck is worth the work, will buy part's as i can , again thank you.

whosdunit.

 

Might have to get a case spreader to get it back in.
You can use a dead blow hammer, but it can be a tough.

 

What about the ABS tone ring? Is it a separate piece and do we need it on the differential? Had my truck 10yrs. ABS light has been on all the time and haven't had any brake problems. I would like to order everything i need at one place and stop all this searching, so if anyone has been there done that i could use some help where to go.
Sheep Herder you are right it's not going back with love & would you please (lol).

coffee's ready whosdunit.

 

You can bypass the ABS RWAL dump valve near the real axle and then unplug the ABS computer behind the glovebox to turn the brake light off. it will still work for the low vacuum and front/rear unbalance switch.

 

After doing some more reading, i believe the tone ring on the carrier is used as (for) a spacer and has to be ordered separate. Just went up (to barn) and took out the front pinion bearing and both races,
and the broken pieces from the pinion. And inspecting where the carrier bearings came out, i noticed what appears to be a red rubber "O" 1 on each side. Do these O-ring's come w/ a rebuild kit, or do they stay, and what are they for? I know i'm asking a lot of questions but, this is my 1st time, and i want to do this right "the first time.

Need coffee, whosdunit.

 

The tone ring is not a spacer. Re-use, or leave it out if you want. It will cripple your ABS though.

The 'o-rings' you see is factory housing sealant.

 

Thank you, u2, the reason i ask is the one on my carrier is all chewed up (ugly), i do understand the purpose of the tone (exciter) ring to send pulse signals for brakes (ABS). Another problem, the pin that goes thru the carrier to hold the spider gears, would not slide out, had to drive it out with a brass pin, don't think that it should be that tight. after watching 2-3 u-tube videos the mechanics just slid the pin's out after removing the cross bolt that holds the pin in the carrier. Looking at just buying a whole new 3rd. member. WHY? the pin won't go back in the hole, nope, think it's bent. And thank you for staying with me on this project.

more coffee, whosdunit.

 

It's not a hard job, just very tedious.
I bet I had to take the carrier and pinion in and out 10-15 times to get it right. It's all measured in thousands of a inch if I recall.

I had the FSM, also a booklet from 'Torque King 4x4'. I think I bought all the bearings from them,

Also bought Yukon gears from
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/. This outfit would have bearings also.

 

You should be able to get the cross pin by itself. Much cheaper to buy and ship than a whole carrier. Also, now is the time to consider any axle shaft/spline upgrade or a traction device.

'3rd-member' is a term normally used for the Ford 9", Chrysler 8-3/4", Toyota, etc where the whole guts unbolt from the housing at once.

 

Here's a good read if you haven't found this yet,

BillaVista.com-Gear Setup Bible Tech Article by BillaVista

 

I'm back, now have all new bearings for my rebuild, now some questions.
#1. The new shims are thicker than the old ones, so it should not take as many to get the same "thickness", i'm starting w/ the pinion bearing.

having coffee, whosdunit.

 

OK,I'm BACK, finally got all new gears in the carrier, pinion & ring gear set up & rear cover bolted up, next will be axel's & bearings. Question,, with new gears which weight oil & amount (70 u ) would be the best for me to use for breaking in ?
Man, this has been a "learning experience", my best is (was) 08, tries to get it right,,, that will be a story for later. Thanks for helping & listen'n.

More coffee, whosdunit.

 

Some say synthetics don't let metal parts break-in properly.

I go with basic 80w90 by the bucket. That way if something buggers up, you're not tossing expensive oil. And you have more to refill with. If you like synthetic, put that in later.