After much reading about the pilot bushings upgraded to a bearing I have a couple questions. First does anyone have a part number of the bearing? How many here have gone this route and would they do it again?

Lots of vehicles use bearings, mostly imports that I have worked on. Bushings do wear out especially if they get greased on install.

 

I think I found the part number using google. Not trying to avoid any of the aftermarket suppliers, just trying to get it back together in a timely fashion.

 

Call South Bend Clutch they have an impressive pilot bearing. You will need to have your flywheel machined to accept this bearing. I saw it at PDRs dyno day a few years ago and it was impressive.

Bob

 

I just had mine done at southbend clutch yesterday. I can get a P/N off it later on if there is one. I drove it out there and they surfaced and bored it out for a pilot bearing in 45 minutes. It came out sweet!

 

If there is a number on it and you could check, I'll verify that I got the right one.

 

Bearings are not good for a daily-driver/work/towing rig.

The bronze bushing is still the best.

There are many threads, here and in other forums, of the bearings siezing and eating the tip off the main-shaft.

I debated this same scenario, when I was swapping the engine into my Ford, and I went with the tried and true bushing.

 

I called Southbend this afternoon and it was the same part number.
1635-2RS

 

Oh oh, now I have a dillema. Most import vehicles use (ball) bearings on the pilot and they are great. My bushing was really worn so when I read about changing to a bearing it sounded like a great fix..

Ok, just did a bunch more reading. The newer generation trucks used a needle roller bearing that fails miserably and takes out the input shaft. I have seen this on Ford Rangers and stuff so I do beleive that. As for a ball roller bearing I think that is far better than the oilite bushings. Just my .02 but time will tell. I'll be having the flywheel machined to accept it.

 

I had a bearing go out and it took out my input shaft and primary countershaft gear. I went back to the bushing and have had zero problems since. When a bearing goes, you get enough of an angle to take out parts. The bushing wears very slowly, and can't go out all at once.

 

Did you have a needle bearing that failed?

 

I can't remember for sure.

 

Bearing or bushing, neither are turning, so long as the clutch is not depressed.

What kills both are long periods at lights/etc., holding the pedal down, thus causing the shaft to spin in the fly-wheel; this also spells death for the throw-out.

For any idle spell over a couple seconds, put the transmission in NEUTRAL and let off the pedal.

So long as the clutch is ENGAGED, there is no wear or stress on the pilot.


I have an old clutch-eating 400,000-mile Chevy, that has had probably no less than a dozen clutch replacements; the bronze bushing that GM put in it in 1978 is still in there and going strong; the new one that I bought for the first clutch replacement is still in the glove-box.

 

Heavy shock loads on the input shaft will eventually ruin a bearing, but the bushing will last and last.

 

I am curious to find out how long this bearing will go for. Its a nice sealed ball bearing. My bushing in there was toast and ate the input shaft. I agree the fact that the operator has alot to do with how long all that stuff will last.

 

I looked it up. It was a really nice sealed ball bearing.