ok so ive had to replace my axle seals once before, well today i had to do my passenger side again and i figured that i might as well help someone in the future and give a step by step and some part #'s on how to do this.

1) first remove the wheel or wheels that you plan on replaceing the seals in.

2) start with one side and take out the axle. there are 8 bolts that hold it in, they are a 9/16 bolt and i prefer the fast method of an impact gun.

3) after you have the axle out then remove the clip in the center of the nut on the end of the tube. needle nose pliers do fine.

4) next you will need to take out the giant nut that holds the drum on. its a 2 1/16 socket that i used, but be careful i used one that goes on a 3/4 inch drive set, if you buy one make sure it fits the drive your using.

5) after the nut is off slowly slide the drum forward but beware there is a bearing that is inside there and make sure that when it falls out you know which way to put it back in.

6) after you have susessfully removed the drum the easiest way i found to take the seal out is to set the drum down with the axle side facing you and take a punch and a small hammer and talk on the inner bearing to kock it and the seal out.

7) now to replace the seal, take the bearing and reinsert it into the drum and take you new seal and place it on top. take a big sized socket like you 2 1/16 and place int on top with an extension in it. lightly tap in the extension so that it pushes the seal in slowly. i used the socket to evenly distribute the force of the hit so it as evenly as possible, pushed the seal in square.

8) tap it down far enough that its not touching the bearing but about an 1/8th inch from the lip of the drum.

9) now that you seal is in you can begin to reassemble the the drum. when you slide it onto the end of the axlebut be very very very very very careful and steady not to nick the seal on the axle tube because it will tear the rubber part........trust me thats why mine went back again

10) after that just follow the intructions ot reinstall the bearing the nut and the clip. i torqued my axle bolts (the 9/16th ones) down to 35ftlbs just ot be sure they werent to tight. when you but put the big nut back on be sure that the big nut is not on to tight i tightened it snug and i mean SNUG not tight, it its to tight the drum will not spin.

and thats pretty much it. the only thing i can think of that you would need to do is add a little more rear gear oil to make up for the little you lose when u pull the axle out.

PART #'s

my rear is a dana 70 i got my seal from pep boys and the the # was

chicago rawhide seal # - 28746
price- 11.99

they might tell you its for a spicer 70 but spicer and dana are the same company.

ENJOY

nick

 

Very good. I use a sheet metal screw and a slide hammer for pulling the seal though.

Sheetmetal 2 9/16" rounded hex sockets with 1/2" drive are available from specialty tool places. They are usually much cheaper than a forged 3/4" drive socket and they are plenty strong for the application. Don't use an air wrench on them, though.

 

i agree deffinatly done use an air wrench when taking the big nut out. but for taking the axle bolts out i found it faster.

 

do i make the sticky dave????????!!!!

 

Well, I hate to break it to you, but the subject is pretty much covered already. See the "Axle Removal" and "Spindle Repair" threads in there.