so on my 91.5....since i got it the lights would pulse at night and the volt gauge would bounce around and lights would flicker unless my RPM's were up....gauge always read at the 3rd line from the left,which is 1 line higher than the 92 charges?

then a few weeks ago it stopped charging all together, i used double alt cable and redid my ground cable and the one that goes to the rad. support is now very thick like 6ga and i stripped the metal back and used a 5/16 bolt where it goes to the rad support.....

Still no charge


So my buddy bought a 90 W250, he got an extra alt. with it....looks like new but slightly used looking alternator , put it on mine and still no charge.

then i took my 3 month old NAPA ECHLIN voltage regulator and put a rusty old nasty one on there off the 91, which charged when it was running

So then my truck charged and the volt gauge needle was in between the 2 and 3rd line which was lower than before, but the lights and the gauge still pulsed at idle unless my RPM's were up....

Now it has a different alternator than when i got it, and 2 different regulator since then and it seems like the work good for a short time then go bad??

which voltage regulator is the one that lasts?? i can't find the thread on it...

thanks

 

The Mopar unit, which I believe the part number is in Bearkiller's sig.

 

My truck did the same thing, I had put in a new alternator, new battery but it wouldn't charge. Hell, I even took the alternator back an swapped it for a new one (gotta love Oreilly's). My battery took a charge and the alternator checked out fine. Turns out it was my crank sensor. After that didn't completely fix it found out my Engine Control Module (ECM) was partially burnt out. Total cost: $800 at the dealer. Works perfect now. I would start with checking the spacing on my crank sensor should be 50 thousandths if I'm not mistaken. Be sure to use a non ferrous metal (doesn't stick to a magnet) for your spacing. If that doesn't work, change out the crank sensor since it's the cheapest part to replace. I had to get one from the dealership since nobody else carried it.

 

It was the ground! I ran a ground wire from the voltage regulator bolt to the battery, it wouldn't charge at idle but then i got moving and it started charging, and now it's good at idle or driving. making about 14.3-14.4

 

Just think of how much money Chrysler engineering saved by not spending about 20 cents per truck to have included a ground wire in the regulator harness. Simply amazing.....

 

hi i know is silly but can you send me a diagram how you did this wire thing , am not good at fixing cars ,but i got to learn mechanics ,very expensive . thanks beber_to@hotmail.com

 

i can't really make a diagram.....There's 2 bolts that hold the regulator to the fire wall of the truck.

Remove one of the screws, get a length of wire to go from the BOLT holding the regulator on, to the NEGATIVE post on the battery, put a ring terminal on each end and put the ring terminal UNDER the bolt when you screw it in, and hook the other end of the wire to the bolt on the negative end of the battery cable-----run the wire down the driver side fenderwell with all the other wiring then run it over to the voltage regulator on the firewall.

 

In addition to this, add an external tooth or internal tooth electrical lockwasher and a dab of grease to this regulator bolt. This circuit also doubles as a new functional cab ground.

 

The Mopar Blue regulator is the only one that has lasted on my truck. I was going through them every month or two and losing headlights about as fast. I finally ordered one of the blue ones from Summit and it quit pulsing. After 2 months of no problems i put another set of SilverStar headlights in and have had no trouble with either for 2 years. I bought a second Mopar Blue to keep behind the seat along with an extra headlight. Been nice to not have to mess with them.

 

I got my Mopar blue one yesterday, I'm gonna put it on today!

I too have ordered silverstar headlights so I'm glad the regulator will help them last.

That would be cool If it got rid of the pulsing at idle....

 

Is this regulator only an issue on the i/c trucks?

 

The reg is only on 89-91.5 trucks the 92 and newer trucks are regulated by the pcm.

 

so i put the mopar blue regulator on and wow what a difference!! no more pulsing at idle and factory gauge sits a little lower more in the comfort zone

 

I think my original voltage regulator finally took a hike on me. I've noticed the voltage gauge has been a little lower than it used to be in the past. I've been out of town for 4 weeks and just got home last night. Got in the truck and it only turned about half of a revolution. While I was out of town, the truck was only moved once a week for street sweeper days and only ran for 5 minutes at the most. I asked my dad if it gave him any trouble starting and he said it seemed a little slower each time.

I jumped it and checked the voltage at the battery and only had 12.6 or 12.7 volts. Drove the truck to a local starter/alternator shop I've been using for years to see what he thought about it. With his volt meter on the battery with the engine running, we saw the same voltage. He then moved some of the wires on the back of the alternator and voltage jumped to 13.5-13.6 then came back down to 12.2.

I'm suspecting it's the regulator since the battery is only a year old and the alternator was just rebuilt a little over a year ago. I found the part number in BearKiller's sig, P3690731. Is that number valid for any auto parts store to find, maybe even a dealer?

 

Take that number in bearkillers sig to a dealer or BETTER YET order one from summitracing, it will be here in 2-3 days and it's CHEAP

Link- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-3690731/