Quick question before I install everything, the new pump from Scheid just has a block-off plate where the KSB goes. Do I need to take the one off my old pump and put it on hte new pump?

 

Unless it gets cold enough where you're at, you would have no problems leaving it off. Does the pump still have the pressure regulator in the front??

 

I'm not sure about the pressure regulator, but I do like the option to turn the KSB on because my trap speed was 4mph higher with it on than running with it off. Thats a good jump in power!

 

What did the folks at Scheid say when you asked them?

 

That's what I was thinking. It was proven by kta years ago the ksb added 150+rwhp. He made a couple 450rwhp dyno runs, and remembered he didn't unplug his ksb. Unplugged it, cooled it down then made his record breaking 627rwhp run.

 

Hmm looks like I better put a KSB back on my pump. 150+hp on top of my old 575 sure would be nice.

Bill are you sure he didnt have his AFC unhooked. In my experience its worth around 150hp on a 14mm pump.

As far as the KSB on a 14mm pump goes...I havent the slightest clue. I know on a 12mm pump its +30-40hp every time.

 

The KSB itself doesn’t add any extra fuel. It does however provide roughly 7-8* of timing. On the test stand I have played with the KSB and found it doesn’t flow any more with it on or off. On the dyno I have seen roughly 50hp with a 12mm pump and right around 100hp with the 14mm pump.

It’s the timing that helps make all of the hp. You don’t necessarily have to have it if you want to drive a street driven pickup around with 27-29* of timing. Personally I don’t like to it because it sounds awful. With the KSB off I can drive around at 20* and then when I am on the dyno I can turn it on and bring it up to 27-29*. That seams to be the sweet spot for me.

The KSB also raises the case pressure which is how it overcomes the spring for the timing mechanism. With it on I don’t see that much of a drop on my case pressure gauge when I stand on the throttle. Just driving around with it off I usually see a considerable drop in pressure if I stand on it.


Stomp

 

Speaking of your pump stomp how did the testing at Bradley's go?

 

Good I guess we only seized one of my 14mm pumps. The good news is the head/rotor is salvageable it only had one little scuff mark on it that we should be able to get out with some lapping compound. It did break the cam disk (4mm) it sure flowed some fuel for all of 10 minutes. I thought I had the 4mm cam disk thing figured out, but I was wrong. I just had to try it, because in theory it should be able to flow a little more fuel. We tried a bunch of different things, but the results were always the same. NO increase in fuel. I even tried a stand alone pump to duel feed it through the shut off solenoid. No change on the test stand. I have some people researching some more stuff so I might have to send some more parts up there to be tested, but it will be a little while before I can get everything figured out.

Sorry for being off topic pwrtripls1.


Stomp

 

No problem at all, its very usefull info. Thats one of the reasons I had Scheid build the 14mm pump without the 4mm plate. Just seems much more reliable without it, especialy over 3000rpms. What sort of flow numbers does your pump put out? (cc's)

 

Any updates?

 

The below numbers were done at test stand rpm's X2 for motor rpm's.

It flowed 450cc @ 500rpm's with air.
450cc @ 750rpm's with air.
410cc @ 1000rpm's with air.

Valet was 330cc @500 rpm's without air.

14mm with 4mm cam plate which resulted in seizing the pump.

500cc @ 500 rpm with air
490cc @ 750 rpm with air
360cc @ 1000 rpm with air

I don’t know why we didn’t test them at higher rpm’s, I mean we spent 12 hours at the shop. I guess when we tested all of them in the past we never did. If we would have gained anything down low we would have known from the previous tests.

Stomp

 

The 360cc at 1k stand rpm is surprising. The rotor must have been on its way out at that point...

 

The head and rotor are still good. There was only one little scuff mark that we should be able to get out with some lapping compound. The cam broke both of the ears off so its toast, but everything else looks good. I am pretty lucky that we got it shut down pretty fast on the test stand. If it would have been in the pickup I dont think we would have been able to save anything.

Stomp

 

I see. What do you think is the cause of the low cc's number at that point? It fell off awfully fast compared to the 14mm by itself.

Im going to have to look at a rotor a little closer when I get back to the farm.