New pump is in....Ques???
Alright ,here we go again Caver Dave and I spent the better part of the night last night getting my new IP installed.We got everything primed Ive got fuel to all injectors,the truck sounds like it wants to crank but wont quite get there.How long does it usually take to work all of the air out of the lines and everywhere else?Could there be anything else that Im over looking?Im actually taking the day off today so I can look at things in the daylight....
I believe that the pump IS installed correctly, the timing never moved, the shaft slide into the gear smoothly, key did NOT fall out and there are are NO drips/leaks post IP
From the posts I scanned earlier this AM (midnight-ish)... It appears we did NOT bleed the injector lines sufficiently. IOW, we got nothing> bubbles> foam> an finally few small squirts before tightening them back up... nothing substantial.
Since the ENTIRE fuel path was bone dry, that's a lot of air volume to expel!
PLEASE CORRECT US IF THIS IS WRONG!... The consensus seemed to be loose any 3 lines at the injectors and crank it until your getting consistent solid flow w/ no bubbles/foam/etc. and *then* tighten them up. Truck should fire then and crack the other 3 (one at a a time) until it smooths out...
From the posts I scanned earlier this AM (midnight-ish)... It appears we did NOT bleed the injector lines sufficiently. IOW, we got nothing> bubbles> foam> an finally few small squirts before tightening them back up... nothing substantial.
Since the ENTIRE fuel path was bone dry, that's a lot of air volume to expel!
PLEASE CORRECT US IF THIS IS WRONG!... The consensus seemed to be loose any 3 lines at the injectors and crank it until your getting consistent solid flow w/ no bubbles/foam/etc. and *then* tighten them up. Truck should fire then and crack the other 3 (one at a a time) until it smooths out...
Your bleeding them correctly. When your cranking with 3 lines loose how far does fuel shoot out of the loose lines? It should have an enthusiastic spray, not a dribble.
Crank it with at least half throttle.
Crank it with at least half throttle.
I HOPE the pump was built correct .. I will do my best to explain what I mean..
If the pump is correct then and you have a fresh battery and good fuel flow then all you need to do it close all the lines.. then do exactly what you said.. open 3 turn it over .. you will see fuel coming out.. then do back 3.
yes you may need to do this a few times.. when i had my truck problems (see this link)
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=114907
what I found was after I did the 3 inj then the back 3.. I then started at the front inj and then did each one after that towards the back.. as soon as I got to the 4th one the truck was running.. but very rough as i went to the 5the and 6th inj it ran great..
Now the bad news.. if the place that built the pump put the shaft inside backwards which is very possible then your truck will act like it wants to start but will not continue to fire.. the reason is the inside shaft lets fuel up to about 200 or 400rpm and once they truck tries to fire up and rev the RPM's if the shaft is backwards it shuts down the fuel supply.
this is what was wrong with my Inj pump after a local tried to build the pump for me.
yours sounds just like what happen to me.
read my thread above and you will see I did everything and stil no luck until a shop pulled the pump apart and saw that it was built incorrect
I think the part that can be in backwards is called "control sleeve:
see this link: http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw...i/injpump.html
it is pictured in 3rd pic
If the pump is correct then and you have a fresh battery and good fuel flow then all you need to do it close all the lines.. then do exactly what you said.. open 3 turn it over .. you will see fuel coming out.. then do back 3.
yes you may need to do this a few times.. when i had my truck problems (see this link)
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=114907
what I found was after I did the 3 inj then the back 3.. I then started at the front inj and then did each one after that towards the back.. as soon as I got to the 4th one the truck was running.. but very rough as i went to the 5the and 6th inj it ran great..
Now the bad news.. if the place that built the pump put the shaft inside backwards which is very possible then your truck will act like it wants to start but will not continue to fire.. the reason is the inside shaft lets fuel up to about 200 or 400rpm and once they truck tries to fire up and rev the RPM's if the shaft is backwards it shuts down the fuel supply.
this is what was wrong with my Inj pump after a local tried to build the pump for me.
yours sounds just like what happen to me.
read my thread above and you will see I did everything and stil no luck until a shop pulled the pump apart and saw that it was built incorrect
I think the part that can be in backwards is called "control sleeve:
see this link: http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw...i/injpump.html
it is pictured in 3rd pic
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Well this is where we are,I have got very inconsistant results from the cracking of my injector lines,I'll get good spray off of #2 & #6 with still some foamy looking crap off of the others,Dave will be able to explain better everything we've done.It started acting like it was about to fire a few times but then went back to nothing.Ive hand pumped the lift pump and gotten good fuel from the filter ,the bleed screw above the filter and the fitting on the top front of the ip.Im finding it hard to belive that after all this Ive still got air in those lines ,but Ive been wrong before.Walking away from it for the night before I ruin a good hammer.Bring on the ideas/suggestions.
Yes we have ,we were feeding fuel tonight from a can with a boat primer trying to eliminate air leaks from the lp back,thought it was gonna fire a few times only for it to do nothing
Maxx,
I don't see in your sig. whether you have a 5-speed or an auto but if it's the 5-speed, I'd be tempted to try to pull start it to get it past the air in the lines. Just a wild thought from the peanut gallery.
I don't see in your sig. whether you have a 5-speed or an auto but if it's the 5-speed, I'd be tempted to try to pull start it to get it past the air in the lines. Just a wild thought from the peanut gallery.
Disconnect your grid heaters and crank it on WD-40 with #1,3 and 6 injector lines loose. When it fires then tighten those three and loosen the other three. Then bleed those three and it should run. I use WD-40 because it is eaiser on the engine than ether and it will lube the cylinders also.
To elaborate a little more...
The fuel lines were bled all the way thru the LP, filter, bleeder plug on banjo to the IP (good solid flow from the inlet tube). We then tried to bleed the injector lines... flow is NOT GOOD!

Lines cracked 1/4-1/2 turn - Cranking after:
5 seconds = nothing
10 seconds = a few bubbles
15 seconds = oozing foam
20-30 seconds = spurting foam (1"-2" tall)
This part is consistent and repeats on each cranking cycle. However, the spurts of foamy fuel coming from #2 is larger than others and #6 appears to be higher pressure w/ small volume... IOW, it blows an atomized mist that shoots 12" up past the lines.
The action of #6 is kinda what we were expecting, BUT...
After bleeding countless GALLONS thru the fuel tank and at *least* a gallon from the can/boat primer last night (attached to the LP), the symptoms are consistent oozing/spurting FOAM from the injector lines (w/ exception to #6)
Questions:
#1 - IF the FSO plunger is stuck, will enough fuel make it past to give these symptoms? (it does have 12V on run/start & does appear to energize = can feel it click)
#2 - Or, does this sound like a bad rebuild or stuck governor (I found reference to this happening)?
The fuel lines were bled all the way thru the LP, filter, bleeder plug on banjo to the IP (good solid flow from the inlet tube). We then tried to bleed the injector lines... flow is NOT GOOD!


Lines cracked 1/4-1/2 turn - Cranking after:
5 seconds = nothing
10 seconds = a few bubbles
15 seconds = oozing foam
20-30 seconds = spurting foam (1"-2" tall)
This part is consistent and repeats on each cranking cycle. However, the spurts of foamy fuel coming from #2 is larger than others and #6 appears to be higher pressure w/ small volume... IOW, it blows an atomized mist that shoots 12" up past the lines.
The action of #6 is kinda what we were expecting, BUT...
After bleeding countless GALLONS thru the fuel tank and at *least* a gallon from the can/boat primer last night (attached to the LP), the symptoms are consistent oozing/spurting FOAM from the injector lines (w/ exception to #6)
Questions:
#1 - IF the FSO plunger is stuck, will enough fuel make it past to give these symptoms? (it does have 12V on run/start & does appear to energize = can feel it click)
#2 - Or, does this sound like a bad rebuild or stuck governor (I found reference to this happening)?


