There is no doubt a lower horsepower VE could take a little bit higher horsepower P7100 or Common Rail, but there is no way a VE with only pump tweaking and a stock auto could even launch as hard as a 600rwhp Common Rail.

I'm not saying the OP is lying to us, I think he was lied to by the guy with the Common Rail. The only way I could see it is if the Common Rail has a huge, laggy turbo, and failed to do a boosted launch.

I noticed you left the VP off the list of ones you love.


I still fail to see how manually shifting the auto would help. The VE fuels hardest down low, so if it shifts earlier, it will be getting more power, so it would go faster. I've never heard of anyone else manually shifting an auto, especially in drag racing, unless they have a manual valve body. Maybe with a stock auto it does make a difference, but I can't see why it would.

 

peobryant-seen some good runnin vp,s, but no, not on my list. obviosly when it really has to make big power,like your brothers p-pump in your sig, the ve comes up a little short.but as others on here have found,its strengths keep it in the running. manually shifting a stock auto does help,they tend to shift a little early with stock valve body.

 

I'm starting to think the 9 cm housing has something to do with it as well.

I just took mine for a test drive after messing with the screw. It's awesome up to 85, then it falls off.

I was kind of contemplating getting a "real" turbo with a 12 or 14 cm housing, but... do I really need to accelerate hard past 85 mph?

 

Only if your on a drag strip . Seriously though, i have thought about that same thing. My set up is plenty fast enough for the street. We are driving bricks on wheels they should only go so fast driving on the street. I think my biggest reason to get a "real" turbo would be to help keep things cooler when something is attached to the hitch.

 

adjusting your T.V. cable would allow the tranny to wind out the gears. That along with a potentiometer to set your OD engagement point would completely eliminate the need to manually shift your automatic transmission.

 

Head: is your waste gate operational? I'm curious how relieving back pressure will help. I hear that sometimes on dyno queens they turn DOWN boost once in awhile and get better numbers since the extra boost isn't helping, so reducing drive pressure helps more.

 

When your driving a hopped up 1st gen with an auto manually shifting it just lets it wind out, you wouldn't believe the way it'll feel if as soon as it shifts into 3rd (727) , shift it down to 2nd and it'll put you back in the seat and get the RPM's up then shift into 3rd

My dad ALWAYS does it when we're bombin around in the 91' and it used to bother me but then he showed me how strong it is if you don't let it shift into 3rd until late, its awesome ...the truck we're driving now has an abnormally tight converter in it, it runs 100 rpm's lower running 70 than the other 91 did with the same setup, and thats GPS mph, not on the speedos

 

There is an adjustment on the valve body that can change the shifts to high speeds. It would be a trial & error to get it to the max speed for each gear before defueling. There is another adjustment to increase line pressure which helps to prevent slippage when these engines are making more power.

 

No it's not actually. It has been removed. I'm only hitting about 38 lbs of boost though. Maybe the wastegate is opening by itself at that pressure? I dunno. I don't remember if it was welded shut or not.

I am starting to feel that the truck is just about fast enough for me. Like I said before, anything past 80 is kind of scary on these old school suspensions.

I think that light to light its fairly respectable though.

 

We need steering column mounted acceleration videos John

 

I will see what I can do.

 

What kind of boost #'s are you guys running with the 9cm HE351 cruising at say 70mph on level ground? Just curious. My 12cm HX35 runs about 6psi, which is too much for my taste. It's hurting my mileage too.

 

mine runs at 12 psi, my hx35/12 anyways

 

7 or 8. somewhere in there. 6 isn't hurting your mileage. You want under 10 and less than 700 EGT for good mileage.

 

Your only runnin 38 lbs of boost??? and you have bigger injectors? I have stock i/c injectors and i'm runnin 40 lbs with my he351. I bet your wastegate is opening from drive pressure, I had a not very tight spring on my wastegate at first when i first put the he351 on and the wastegate would open at 10 lbs. So then i made a little bracket and hooked the turnbuckle i had on my hy35 on to it and tightened it down so it wouldn't open at all, then i could hit 40 I'm gonna use the j-hook off my old hy and put it where i have my turnbuckle on my he351, So then it will have a tighter spring and hopefully i can get it to open at 35 lbs from the drive pressure, I haven't done it yet, but i think it will work.

I'm gonna get a better torque converter, a shift kit, and probably have my trans gone through to see if it needs rebuilding or not before i add any more power to this ol girl. But i'm just waitin on extra money. Then it will be time for head work, then I can get some real injectors and a lp piston lift pump, and probably a water/meth kit, then this truck will be a different animal. But this will probably take me another 2 years to get there.

Oh and that 3rd gen i raced did beat me off the line, but not by much, and he just stayed a little ahead of me and pulled away a little bit, but i stayed with him most the time, but in the end he only beat me by about 2 car lengths, so he definately didn't blow me out of the water. And this is back when I had my hy35 on my truck, not the he351.

With the he351, cruisin at about 70, I usually run about 6 to 10 lbs of boost depending on if I'm on a slight hill or not, My egts never go above 800 though if i am cruisin at 70mph. Its usually around 650-700, depending on the conditions. This turbo definately helped my mileage! It spools quick, runs cool, and keeps you movin.