Again, my front drive shaft failed at the double cardan joint.
The original went to 260+K miles before it started making some noise so I had it rebuilt.
Only a few thousand miles later, it failed again and not even it 4 wheel drive.
Had it rebuilt again and in a few thousand miles it failed again. This time it was the first moment I needed it. Couldn't get moving on the ice so I pulled it into 4X4. Moved a foot, then pop and shake.
No suspension changes or anything in the drive line.
So what are my front drive shaft options?

 

You may need a NEW CV assembly for it. If the socket in the CV gets worn badly it has to be replaced. Many places just slap a repair kit in them. It might not be cheap, but I would have an entire new 'shaft made.

I swapped a shortened super duty front drive shaft in my '93 and it operates much smoother now. I got it used for $50 and about another $100 to get shortened, plus it is an upgrade.

 

why don't you check out Jess's Site One Ton CV High Angle Driveline

http://www.highangledriveline.com/

They have heavier CVs that you can take a look at.

 

Excellent guys. Thanks for the help.
I know I don't have an angle issue because that never changed. I also checked the angles to be sure.
I am sure both over haulers cheeped out. The last guy is at least wanting to make it right.

 

Got the drive shaft back from the last guy. All he did was push the seal back over the ball
Took it straight over to another drive line shop and they said nothing was even close to new in the joint
Another $250. I told them to hold the parts for me so I could "give them" back to the last guy.
I got a quote from High Angle, They want just under $900 for a new 42° drive shaft. If the old one still fails, then I gotta do what I gotta do.

 

Yikes,

What about a used one from a parts truck... I think the gas and diesel 1st gens are the same. At least they look the same.

 

I got a complete new front shaft for just under 300 $......why is it costing you soooo much for a front drive shaft ?

 

git-er-done, where did you get your shaft? Is it stock?

 

After market high performance includes a different drive flange on the transfer case.

 

Oh, sorry, didnt know you were after high performance. Mine was a stock one. Sorry bout that

 

I went to a driveline shop and had them make me a 1350 series double cardon, a 1410 series front joint and the 1410 yoke for the D60, all for around $350 if IIRC.

This is stronger than the stocker although I can say the stock shaft never failed when I changed it out at 175,000 miles.

 

Not really high performance, just concerned I am exceeding the angle limit of the OEM shaft. I will have to do a "hang" check and see if my axle drops further than the shaft will. I remember reading the OEM DC was about 28°. I think the 1350 is 32°.

 

You dont need a 42* shaft, ask him for a cheaper one with less angle.

 

Put my drive shaft back on yesterday and did some measuring. With my overload shocks fully extended, the end of the drive shaft hung only 1" below the yoke. Any axle role would have placed it beyond it's angle limit. The overload shocks only lifted the truck by 1/2", but had 2" more travel than stock shocks. I replace the overloads with stock shocks, now I have 3 1/2" of travel before hitting the angle limit. I'll see what happens. Looks like I need something with a better angle anyway.
I don't see how people with lift kits get around this.

 

I see a handful of people with no driveshaft installed with big lifts. Or they just run it without doing the correct droop tests etc. For a pavement pounder it doesn't matter that much. The main reason I see for doing a lift is for looks anyway. Our trucks will fit 37" tires with stock springs easily. Most of the trucks with 6" lifts have smaller tires than 37" too. Lets face it though our trucks are tow rigs and not rock crawlers but are very capable off road with stout factory components that can handle some abuse for sure.