My first problem! Input needed...
04-02-2010, 11:17 AM
#31
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Otherwise, I have no idea what the green monster is, lol
04-02-2010, 12:26 PM
#32
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Hmmm. There is a green wire coming from the black harness connector! It's cut and not connected to anything. The truck was like that when I got it, and since I didn't have this problem until 2 weeks after I bought the truck, I figured it was unrelated.
Otherwise, I have no idea what the green monster is, lol
Otherwise, I have no idea what the green monster is, lol
04-02-2010, 12:29 PM
#33
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The green monster is a term that is used in referral to corrosion in connectors or high resistance in wires. Corrosion from water being on copper wire is green.
On the inner fender on the right hand side of the truck underneath the intercooler pipe there are the two connectors I am talking about. One connector is a large wire. The other connector has multiple wires, that I think you should look closely at. The voltage regulator wire goes though this connection, and may be the source of your problem. If the connector looks ok then you will have to start testing with a ohm meter on each wire from the voltage regulator to the alternator. You are looking for a reading of less than 5 ohms on each wire.
I just noticed that your truck is not intercooled. But if you follow the wiring from the alternator you should have these connectors.
On the inner fender on the right hand side of the truck underneath the intercooler pipe there are the two connectors I am talking about. One connector is a large wire. The other connector has multiple wires, that I think you should look closely at. The voltage regulator wire goes though this connection, and may be the source of your problem. If the connector looks ok then you will have to start testing with a ohm meter on each wire from the voltage regulator to the alternator. You are looking for a reading of less than 5 ohms on each wire.
I just noticed that your truck is not intercooled. But if you follow the wiring from the alternator you should have these connectors.
Last edited by RuralCruiser007; 04-02-2010 at 12:31 PM. Reason: noticed truck is non intercooled
04-02-2010, 03:50 PM
#34
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The green monster is a term that is used in referral to corrosion in connectors or high resistance in wires. Corrosion from water being on copper wire is green.
On the inner fender on the right hand side of the truck underneath the intercooler pipe there are the two connectors I am talking about. One connector is a large wire. The other connector has multiple wires, that I think you should look closely at. The voltage regulator wire goes though this connection, and may be the source of your problem. If the connector looks ok then you will have to start testing with a ohm meter on each wire from the voltage regulator to the alternator. You are looking for a reading of less than 5 ohms on each wire.
I just noticed that your truck is not intercooled. But if you follow the wiring from the alternator you should have these connectors.
On the inner fender on the right hand side of the truck underneath the intercooler pipe there are the two connectors I am talking about. One connector is a large wire. The other connector has multiple wires, that I think you should look closely at. The voltage regulator wire goes though this connection, and may be the source of your problem. If the connector looks ok then you will have to start testing with a ohm meter on each wire from the voltage regulator to the alternator. You are looking for a reading of less than 5 ohms on each wire.
I just noticed that your truck is not intercooled. But if you follow the wiring from the alternator you should have these connectors.
The big connector looks good, it's got dielectric grease in it, all the prongs are shiny bronze. I have yet to look at the round cylinder connector, the one that kinda looks like a fuseable link?
04-02-2010, 04:27 PM
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Ohm meter test results:
from alternator to multi-wire connector on fender: 0.03 for all three wires on the lowest setting, which is 200(? The little horseshoe symbol) on my meter.
From multi-wire connector to voltage regulator plug: same readings, approximately .02-.03 on my meter. When I touch the two probes on the multimeter together, it reads .01-.00, so I'm calling all the connections from the alternator to the VR good.
This is fun, I'm learning a lot! Using up my fast orange hand cleaner at a blistering rate tho, lol!
from alternator to multi-wire connector on fender: 0.03 for all three wires on the lowest setting, which is 200(? The little horseshoe symbol) on my meter.
From multi-wire connector to voltage regulator plug: same readings, approximately .02-.03 on my meter. When I touch the two probes on the multimeter together, it reads .01-.00, so I'm calling all the connections from the alternator to the VR good.
This is fun, I'm learning a lot! Using up my fast orange hand cleaner at a blistering rate tho, lol!
04-02-2010, 07:33 PM
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Ok, another experiment failed. I made a new ground wire from the place on the firewall near the VR. I hooked it on the factory screw, and ran it down to the frame, and hooked it onto a bolt there. I figured this would solve any ground issues that had to do with the voltage regulator, but, alas, even with a new VR(number 4!), new ground, new battery, new alternator, all VR wires tested, I still have not solved this problem. I swear I'm taking this truck to get exorcised by a priest.
04-02-2010, 08:04 PM
#37
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Ohm meter test results:
from alternator to multi-wire connector on fender: 0.03 for all three wires on the lowest setting, which is 200(? The little horseshoe symbol) on my meter.
From multi-wire connector to voltage regulator plug: same readings, approximately .02-.03 on my meter. When I touch the two probes on the multimeter together, it reads .01-.00, so I'm calling all the connections from the alternator to the VR good.
This is fun, I'm learning a lot! Using up my fast orange hand cleaner at a blistering rate tho, lol!
from alternator to multi-wire connector on fender: 0.03 for all three wires on the lowest setting, which is 200(? The little horseshoe symbol) on my meter.
From multi-wire connector to voltage regulator plug: same readings, approximately .02-.03 on my meter. When I touch the two probes on the multimeter together, it reads .01-.00, so I'm calling all the connections from the alternator to the VR good.
This is fun, I'm learning a lot! Using up my fast orange hand cleaner at a blistering rate tho, lol!
04-03-2010, 11:26 AM
#39
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I would take the new alternator out and have it tested, it has to be something. Mark
04-04-2010, 09:24 AM
#41
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Well all I can suggest for you to do now is test all the circuits live. You will test each wire with them still hooked up and measure voltage drop.
You are going to place the positive lead of the meter on one end of the wire and the negative end on the other end of the wire. This has to be done without unhooking the wire from the circuit and the key in the on position. Ideally you are looking for a reading of less than 0.5 VDC. Now the reading may be showing up as a negative on the meter, this is fine. The leads should have been orientated the other way(red and black leads switched). Any reading about the 0.5VDC is an issue. With large wires like battery cables and the feed off the alternator you are looking for a reading of less than 0.2VDC.
What you have to remember when doing ohms testing is all it takes is 1 strand of the multi-strand wire to still be connected and the readings are good. With measuring for volts drop you can still have only one strand connected but it acts like a tap just about closed and shows by the voltage drop being higher than acceptable.
Electrical issues are one of the greatest headaches to have. Lets not even go into how much fun the new vehicles are with all of the modules and computers that talk to each other. I feel for you and if you were closer I would drop in and give you a hand at fixing this beast.
Glenn
You are going to place the positive lead of the meter on one end of the wire and the negative end on the other end of the wire. This has to be done without unhooking the wire from the circuit and the key in the on position. Ideally you are looking for a reading of less than 0.5 VDC. Now the reading may be showing up as a negative on the meter, this is fine. The leads should have been orientated the other way(red and black leads switched). Any reading about the 0.5VDC is an issue. With large wires like battery cables and the feed off the alternator you are looking for a reading of less than 0.2VDC.
What you have to remember when doing ohms testing is all it takes is 1 strand of the multi-strand wire to still be connected and the readings are good. With measuring for volts drop you can still have only one strand connected but it acts like a tap just about closed and shows by the voltage drop being higher than acceptable.
Electrical issues are one of the greatest headaches to have. Lets not even go into how much fun the new vehicles are with all of the modules and computers that talk to each other. I feel for you and if you were closer I would drop in and give you a hand at fixing this beast.
Glenn
02-24-2011, 04:47 PM
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02-24-2011, 06:29 PM
#45
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Take an ohm meter, put 1 lead on the negative terminal of the battery and, with the other, test various places on the engine, in the cab or the transmission or any where else that should be grounded and you should have very close to 0 ohms of resistance. If you don't, you can put as many ground straps or cables as you need to make it so. There is no law that says you cannot add 20 ground cables. This will certainly eliminate ground as a problem. This is, of course, my humble and out of the ordinary opinion...Mark P.S. If the leads are too short, you can us any bigger gauge wire or cable as an extension.