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Most Affordable way to see b/t 250 and 300 hp

Old Jun 24, 2011 | 04:00 PM
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Most Affordable way to see b/t 250 and 300 hp

I just purchased a 91 W350 Cab n Chassi with a flat bed 4x4 5spd! Its the early 91 no ic motor! Money is deff an important issue but I know there are some really economical ways of increasing hp(mildly) without damaging the non ic trucks! Thanks for all the help! Just looking for a little help not a hot rod at all! By the way the truck is 100% all original!
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 04:13 PM
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step one stop with the !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

then bolt on a turbo upgrade or he351... best mod for cheap .

then look in the sticky for the other stuff.
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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1. Break the collar off the fuel screw and turn it all the way in.

2. Let off the throttle if you see more than 1,600 deg.

3. There ya go....250-300rwhp.

edit!

4. Oops....have a flat board ready in to cover the turbo just in case after you turn the fuel up.
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JQmile
4. Oops....have a flat board ready in to cover the turbo just in case after you turn the fuel up.
And if you don't know why you need the board, stop - don't screw with the engine yet... and read about RUNAWAY.

One of the very few ways to actually kill a first gen
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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Man I love the south and southern hospitality. Only If the South would of won?
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 05:03 PM
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What?
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Lucas1
step one stop with the !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

then bolt on a turbo upgrade or he351... best mod for cheap .

then look in the sticky for the other stuff.
really?? i could make 250-300 without spending a dollar on a non IC truck. No need for a turbo upgrade if your only going for 250-300. Perhaps a smaller exhaust housing for better spooling but not a different turbo.
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 06:26 PM
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Luckily you have the larger of the stock injectors to supply plenty of fuel to put you within the HP range you're wanting. As mentioned already, read about runaway in the sticky before you start tweaking the fuel screw. Once you've educated yourself, put a few turns on the fuel screw taking all the necessary precautions, go with an M3 fuel pin from M&H Inc ($105), pick up a used hx-35 turbo (at most $200) which has a smaller, wastegated turbine housing (12cm vs. the stock 18.5cm) and a bigger compressor wheel to push a little more air into the cylinders. That 12cm will spool great with the 5-spd.

If you're mechanically inclined and have some patience, grab a 3200RPM spring from a local fuel injection shop (no more than $20) and install it. Instead of defueling around 2750 (?), it'll continue fueling to about 3200. That is, if you have a good fuel supply. Don't buy one from any of the major companies out there, you will pay too much. I've seen some go for $30+ . Speaking of fuel supply, I'd suggest a low pressure piston lift pump. You should be able to get all the parts necessary for about $250.

Add all of that up and you're into it for maybe $600.
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 06:55 PM
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1. Break the collar off the fuel screw and turn it all the way in.

2. Let off the throttle if you see more than 1,600 deg.

3. There ya go....250-300rwhp.

edit!

4. Oops....have a flat board ready in to cover the turbo just in case after you turn the fuel up.
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1989 D250 2wd 14mm H/R New Era 6x16's, 3200 spring, Goerend converter, J&H Performance 47RH trans, AirDog II, BHAF, 4-inch downpipe and exhaust, DennyT fuel pin, ported, o-ringed and ARP studded head, external wastegate, 62/65/14 S300 w/internal gate, two stage NX nitrous, big timing, 447 on fuel, 599/1,284 on the jug

you spent alot of money for 147 hp
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 08:39 PM
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I have the fuel screw a turn from runaway, ground pin, afc set loose, 366 spring, 2nd gen piston lift pump with holley regulator, and an hx35 in the factory 18.5 cm housing and an 1/8"~ timing bump. Runs great and I can't break 1100* runnin flat out. Cheap parts and runs like a top.
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Marty Z

you spent alot of money for 147 hp
Yep! The point was to push a VE truck, not be a cheap . And you forgot about the nitrous

Last edited by Totallyrad; Jun 25, 2011 at 07:28 AM. Reason: language
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 12:00 AM
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I don't think you a going to get 300hp just turning up the fuel screw.
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 12:42 AM
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I'd say gauges are most important first!

Even on a stock truck gauges tell more than any of the idiot lights will.
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Marty Z
you spent alot of money for 147 hp
You mean 447 hp? That's a pretty significant accomplishment with a VE'd 12V, especially with an auto truck on a single charger, and there's not really an easy or cheap way to get there with a 1st gen. We've all learned from watching that thing progress.
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JQmile
Yep! The point was to push a VE truck, not be a cheap . And you forgot about the nitrous
147 horse? I thought these were stock closer to 200 with the stick, and 160 with the auto. So that's a lot of money, but almost 300 horse, JQ's being an auto.
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