Jbolt001

I have been driving this truck every day for the last 9 ½ years and it has pretty much been the same since day one. Good old reliable, starts instantly every time, gets 20+ on the highway and 16-17 mpg around town. My only complaint would be the doggedness accelerating from a stop and grunting up a few hills when loaded if I loose any momentum going up i.e. forced to slow down for traffic. <br><br>I did my first valve adjustment this weekend. See my sig for mileage. There was definitely some improvement after the valve adjustment, stronger pull getting on the highway and less throttle to maintain cruising speed. I was a bit surprised because of how little the vales seemed to be off. Six of the exhaust valves were right on the other six were set at .016” and all the intakes were at .008” Apparently this does make a noticeable difference.<br><br>I would like to make some improvement to the “from a dead stop acceleration” What I don’t want to do is shred what life is still left in my transmission. What would be the most sensible modification to gain some modest increases? <br><br>I’m working on gauges first so I can see where I’m at now but after that. Suggestions?<br> <br>

Battering Ram

I think this is exactly what you are looking for.<br><br>VE Pump Adjustment<br><br>Make sure and get gauges first.

Alec

You really need to get guages if you are going to turn up/change the fueling.<br><br>That said -- I am thrilled with the results I got adjusting the AFC. There are some really good posts about how this works, and Bushwakr even has a beautiful little diagram that he drew of the assembly. <br><br>I maxed the fuel delivery (by putting the deepest part of the eccentric toward the front of the pump) and adjusted the star-wheel so that the spring was being compressed about an 1/8 of an inch at no load. I also put a light coat of moly grease on the pin as a maintenance measure.<br><br>Different pumps and different people seem to like different adjustments, but this worked very well for me, with no $$ out of pocket, and not too much time spent.

furious70

u should have the 18.5 housing, so moving to a 16 probably wouldn't help that much. I'd give the pump 1/2 turn or so, see if you like that. of course, the more u turn, the more u like

AlK

bolt001,
If you are going to &quot;bomb&quot; the truck then gauges (pyro + boost) are a must. You don't want a melt down. In addition to what the others have suggested a set of new injectors that flow more fuel, set the timing of the pump around 1.4, increase the rpm up to around 2900, will really wake your truck up. As far as injectors go for the first gen trucks the Bosch or Lucas (POD's) are very popular. The Bosch produce less smoke than the POD's, but the POD's put out more power. A good source for information, advice and parts is Piers @ http://www.piersdiesel.com/
If you don't want to spend any money take a look at the following site:
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm
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Al

Jbolt001

BOMB, not sure if what I'm talking about is going that far. Right now my cut off point is when the power increase exceeds the transmissions ability to safely handle it without going to a beefed up tranny. I don't tow very often anymore and I no longer carry 3000lbs of tools every day so life is pretty easy for the truck. That may change in a few years but for now I'm not looking to drop too much change into it....Yet. <br><br>As soon as I get my gauges I'll start tinkering with the pump. Anything to be concerned about with a 10 year old pump?<br><br>I read a bunch about air filters but most of it was for the 94s and up. The stock filter seems to be sized adequately it just can't breath through that little hole in the box. I notice a number of members driving pre 94s are using K&amp;N filters. Is this in the stock filter box? <br><br>What about the exhaust? I haven't looked into this yet. <br><br>Jay

Alec

OkieBR was running a K&amp;N without the air-box -- and that is what I am doing now. (I just have the filter hanging from the fender and radiator support with some rope : ) It seems like I got almost 2psi by taking the box out and running the K&amp;N.<br><br>I am still worried that the K&amp;N doesn't filter enough, and am not looking forward to the oiling guesswork that will someday be necessary, but it was an easy solution.<br><br>I am also planning on putting the box back in with a larger duct through the radiator support. Scotty is right about lower intake air temps making a big difference in performance. Sucking outside air should help this, and sometimes the turbine noise bothers me.

Jbolt001

Size wise how does the K&amp;N compare to the stock filter. <br><br>I'm not sure I want to deal with oiling either.<br><br>I took a good look at the air box this morning. As soon as I get my gauges installed I'm going to tinker with getting some more air in there and see what I can come up with.

Monty

The replacement K&amp;N filter has the exact same dimensions as your stock paper filter. It will fit right in where the other came out. <br><br>As aslitch mentioned, we are running ours as an open element, with the exception of mine being a cone RE-0880, (without airbox), but, I think they changed the airbox on the 93's. So, this type of setup would not work. Another option you may want to look into is the BHAF filter (Big Honkin Air Filter) It does away with the stock box, and is a paper filter. This will mount right to your hose. Do a search on this forum for &quot;BHAF&quot; you will find more than enough info on this filter.<br><br>