OK, I found a 1992 W-250 LE 5 speed manual with 164,111 miles on it, and I wanted to get a second opinion from you guys.

Problems I saw:

1. fairly major oil leak from right behind the oil pan, the guy at the garage said it is probably the rear main seal.
2. speedometer is broke
3. windshield is cracked
4. one reverse light is out.
5. there may be a minor power steering fluid leak (it was down a little, but had been sitting for a while)
6. There was some body rot under along the bottom edge of the cab, behind the doors (extended cab), but I didn't see any rust in any of the other places I've seen talk about on this forum.


Other than the above, is there anything else I should be lookng for? The clutch and transmission both feel good and solid. No wierd squeaks, or anything while driving.

It's got a few issues, and he's asking $5950, but I figure if I can get him to fix the first 4 (needed for CT registration), and sell it for closer to $5000, I will probably bite.

 

Talk him down a little. I just purchased a 1990 w350 with 120,000 miles, and a similar host of "issues" for $3500. Check the blue book value at www.kbb.com/, I have a feeling it will be less than the asking price. Good luck.
Mike

 

Yeah, he's definitly asking above what it's worth. KBB value for this truck if it was in good condition is around $5200.

In general, would you guys recommend having him do the work, and paying closer to what he's asking, or should I just get the work done myself, and talk him down more ($3500 - $4000 range)?

 

i tell you what i have found. You can throw the KBB out the window with a 1st gen Cummins, cause no one is gonna care. I have looked and tried to deal on more trucks than I can shake a stick at(see all my different posts), in 3 different states, and I hear the same things...

"its a cummins, itll sell," And so far everyone who I heard that from has already sold the truck when i follow up.

So you have to ask yourself, IF, and when the guy wont budge, is it still worth the money.

I bought my truck for 2 reasons, 1. Business and 2. Cause I liked it....but i paid over KBB for it, and had cash in hand, no check, nada. 7,000 in cash...guy still wouldnt budge. To me its worth it, no rust, perfect interior, no oil leaks(yet ) so I didnt care what KBB said.

It never hurts to ask for a lower price, but dont be upset if they wont budge, cause the guy behind you may say...I want it.

Sad...but True.

 

1. Rear Mail seal would probably need to have tranny removed or at least pulled out a few inches to get to the parts (not that bad really)

2. Speedo might just be the gearing in the tailshaft. Mine went because it was loose for a few years. Cost was about $ 75 for the parts from dealer.

3. Windshield. If they won't fix it (which they should), I have $50 deductable on mine insurance for glass so it only costs me $50 to get a new windshield. Something to think about as plenty of dirt roads around my world and always getting dings. Just about every other year, I replace windshields.

4. Rev light they should fix. Might just be a bulb else wiring.

5. PWR steering leak. Mine steering box would leak right where the shaft comes out. $8 for part, 1/2 hour job to fix.

6. Body rust. Good place to get parts is: http://www.cooltruckparts.com/ I replaced mine rocker panels instead of paying someone $1000 to have it fixed.

Hope that helps. Easy to bomb these trucks and well worth their $$.

 

Unfortunatly he's not willing to budge on the price at all, and will only fix the windshield, so I'm going to have to pass on this. On the other hand, I did find another truck (1993) with an automatic. My only question is, how reliable is the auto vs. the manual?

 

I always thought the auto (i had one) wasn't really bad. But I never really towed heavy with it and that is what I hear starts cooking them. That and bombing your truck. I went with a DTT tranny once I started bombing pretty good.

Mainly it is because of heat in the tranny. With a Trans Temp gauge, you would be able to keep an eye on it and possibly prevent it smoking.

 

A few things with an Auto. Keep heat to a minimum. Thats with any tranny. A buddy has an auto in his 92, its all stock and he hauls decent weight

1. Run a large external Cooler, in front of the Radiator, he decided not to even use the stock radiator cooler and just bypassed it.

2. Replace ALL trans fluid and filter

3. Check and reset the bands periodically

4.Run a Tranny Temp guage, and drive by it.

5. When towing, dont use O/D unless your Rpm calls for it, if your shifting in and out, take the o/d out

6. Upgrade parts would consist of new HD T/C, valve body kits, etc if you decide on that route.


The most important thing I have found, along with any auto tranny...if you have gotten her hot, get the fluid out. Burnt fluid will kill a tranny quicker than a fly on a terd.

 

Something that I've been repeatedly warned about is using the proper fluid, which, I gather, is really important in keeping your tranny running. Has anyone done a auto to manual conversion? I looked at a kit the other day, and it seemed too pricey. I do like a straight drive, though auto is what i got.
mike
"quicker than a fly on a terd" nice, very nice.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to go for the truck. I'll take some pics and put them in the gallery when I get it home in a few days hopfully (need the loan check to come in). And I'll definitly be changing all the fluids first thing, even though he seems to have taken good care of it, just to be safe.

 

Good info. here.

Dodge used to sell a trans cooler with a temp. sensor & a fan on it that fit underneath the bed just behind the drivers side of the cab. It had a thermocouple set at 180 deg's. It seems to work.

Joe F.(Buffalo)

 

Yeah, I just picked up the truck last night, and it has the external trans. cooler on it (right where described). The previous owner said that the guy who had it before him said it was factory installed.

It also has what he claims is a factory installed Banks Power Pack (it's got the badging on the side for it, right with the Ram badging). Is there such a thing, and what should I be looking for under the hood to verify it?

Once I get a chance to get some pics, I'll have to post them to my gallery.

 

I just wanted to throw out there that it sounds like the truck you were looking at wasn't worth the money. I bought a 1st gen last year after looking at 15 different trucks. It "was" a 1 owner vigin untampered with no gooseneck 201,000 miles. I bought it from a a local dealer, 1 hour after trade in, after a friend of mine who worked there saw it and spoke for it for his "Brother in law". I took it home for $3900 and it looks like it has been garaged all it's life, because it was.

Average retail where I am for a 1st gen where I am is $6500 with 160,000-200,000 miles. Although my truck booked at 3400 there were 2 local diesel truck buyers who put bids of $4000 on the phone (sight unseen) of course employees and thier family members git dibs on trades at a dealership if they call it. I even ran into a guy with a real nice 93 CTD W250 LE ext cab with 170,000 on it for $7800!!!!!1. It had a salvage title!!!! I don't know how but, dealers sell them all day long for these prices here.

If you are careful and patient the right truck will present itself at a fair price at the right time. Reasearch the local market in your area, hopefully prices aren't as steep as in mine!

Best Luck in the search!

 

Auber - Banks Power Pack from the factory? Never heard of that at all. Was Banks even around then?

Most of the Banks stuff now (power packs) are for the 2nd & 3rd gen trucks as they have mostly electronic module stuff that just bolts right on.

It would be interesting if it is true so please take some pictures of what those mods are from Banks.

Great buy, you will love the truck.

 

Banks was around way before then. Banks made kits for the 6.2 GM that didn't even have "sidewinder" written on them circa mid '80's. GM offered them as dealer installed options, I'll bet that is what his dodge has rather than "factory installed".