Lock Ring On Fuel Screw
Lock Ring On Fuel Screw
Well today is the day pyro and boost gauges are installed . I took the caps off the idle and fuel screws and I was wondering how to get the lock ring off without destroying the screw. And how far should I turn the screw I do not want to go to crazy because I want to make all the final adjustments in the summer wen the outside temp is warmer since I will be driving the truck only in the summer thanx John.
loosen the lock nut and remove the screw try and measure it for a referance. with the screw out you can file or grind the lock ring off try not to bugger the threads when you put it back in if its not in far enough in the idle will be low or it wont start ,if its to far you will have runaway if that happens back the screw out you will need to lower your idle screw because of the higher fuel pressure if you think your close...with the engine running snap test the throtle with it idling if the rpms come right back to idle your good, if the rpms hang or are real slow to come back down, back the screw out 1/2 turn.... on my truck 2 turns was all i could go before runaway when it runs away mine stopped at governd speed but i would be safe and keep your hand on the mechanical kill lever to be safe then tighten the jamb nut and go play
If you do get a runaway motor. You may need to remove the air intake tube that goes to the air cleaner and place a board or something over the turbo to kill the air coming into the motor. I would STRONGLY suggest NOT using your hands to block the air, something larger then the turbo opening to block the air.
This is a worse case thing but you should at least be prepared in case it happens.
This is a worse case thing but you should at least be prepared in case it happens.
Monty's reply last night when I asked the same question:
''Mine will do the same thing you described. About 1/4 turn in from where I am at right now and when you are between shifts (manual) it takes alot longer for the RPMs to come down. However, I can hold mine at 2100 and it will go on up. It was explained to me as the flywheights in the pump counter acting to the governor spring. I have been running mine like this close to 75k with no problems.''
''Mine will do the same thing you described. About 1/4 turn in from where I am at right now and when you are between shifts (manual) it takes alot longer for the RPMs to come down. However, I can hold mine at 2100 and it will go on up. It was explained to me as the flywheights in the pump counter acting to the governor spring. I have been running mine like this close to 75k with no problems.''
I ran my fuel screw in almost 4 complete turns and it run ok but with a 12CM houseing and everything else turned to the max I onlt see 25PSI of boost. I'm beginning to think my pumr is a little different, because I had to lengthen the throttle rod 2 inches to get the sdle to come back down because the idle screw was backed all the way off and the idle would not come down anymore. Now all is good but I intend to turn the screw more unless I trade the truck off here in the next few months.
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Jun 22, 2013 07:36 AM



