Leaky rear main
saved me on my front yok on my t-case rebuild......wondered if it would have been cheaper to have bought a new one........then i price one!!
Flash :
I don't have a tranny jack or a lift so will have to have the tranny pulled. My question is when the tranny is out can the rear engine seal be replaced? Don't need one now but I thought while the tranny was out it would be a good time to change it.
Charliex25
I don't have a tranny jack or a lift so will have to have the tranny pulled. My question is when the tranny is out can the rear engine seal be replaced? Don't need one now but I thought while the tranny was out it would be a good time to change it.
Charliex25
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Charlie,
Yes, do it while the trans is out. Also, check your flexplate for cracks. You may want to replace that as well if it is the original even if it isn't cracked, since they are prone to failure.
Yes, do it while the trans is out. Also, check your flexplate for cracks. You may want to replace that as well if it is the original even if it isn't cracked, since they are prone to failure.
Mark,
You need to remove the seal housing to get to the crank snout. The sleeve then slides directly over the end of the crank and creates a new seal surface. You will also need to use loctite to secure it to the crank. It should come with an installation tool to drive it on, but I'm not positive if they all do. My truck has 245K and the crank looked like new, so I didn't need to sleeve mine.
You need to remove the seal housing to get to the crank snout. The sleeve then slides directly over the end of the crank and creates a new seal surface. You will also need to use loctite to secure it to the crank. It should come with an installation tool to drive it on, but I'm not positive if they all do. My truck has 245K and the crank looked like new, so I didn't need to sleeve mine.
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,053
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Mark,
You need to remove the seal housing to get to the crank snout. The sleeve then slides directly over the end of the crank and creates a new seal surface. You will also need to use loctite to secure it to the crank. It should come with an installation tool to drive it on, but I'm not positive if they all do. My truck has 245K and the crank looked like new, so I didn't need to sleeve mine.
You need to remove the seal housing to get to the crank snout. The sleeve then slides directly over the end of the crank and creates a new seal surface. You will also need to use loctite to secure it to the crank. It should come with an installation tool to drive it on, but I'm not positive if they all do. My truck has 245K and the crank looked like new, so I didn't need to sleeve mine.
I'm guessing mine will be good because it's had regular oil and filter changes since new, but I want to be prepared....
Well crap.. I did'nt know they made a sleave for the rear main. When i did mine last year it had a small pit in one spot. I took a little 320 sand paper to it and then drove the seal in a little further than I was supposed to. I have about 15k on it since and sofar no leaks, I would of done the sleave but the napa that had the main instock did not list one.
If it starts to leak I should make that parts guy pull the trans back out for me
If it starts to leak I should make that parts guy pull the trans back out for me
when i did my clutch i past, because mine was dry(with 200,000 miles on it!)
It's actually a "seal housing" that is bolted to the back of the block, over the crank.
NAPA doesnt carry the speedi sleeve, but CUmmins does. I think it is about $75 for the seal and sleeve. Not bad, considering the sleeve is almost $50.
I'd also HIGHLY suggest replacing the cam plug while you have it all out. I replaced a RMS one time, didnt even think to check the cam plug, but had to pull it all apart again and replace the cam plug after I started leaking a qt every 400mi.
Getting the tranny out is the hard part. if you dont have a tranny jack, try a floor jack with a ratchet strap to secure it. I actually prefer it that way -more wiggle room on install
Daniel
I'd also HIGHLY suggest replacing the cam plug while you have it all out. I replaced a RMS one time, didnt even think to check the cam plug, but had to pull it all apart again and replace the cam plug after I started leaking a qt every 400mi.
Getting the tranny out is the hard part. if you dont have a tranny jack, try a floor jack with a ratchet strap to secure it. I actually prefer it that way -more wiggle room on install
Daniel
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