1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Leaky rear main

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Old Oct 6, 2006 | 02:01 PM
  #16  
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From: WY
Originally Posted by G1625S
I speedie-sleeved mine, just to be safe. The silly sleeve was more than the seal
Ya it's crazy how much thay can get out of a thin piece of tin!!!!!!But what ether option do you have......rreplacing the crank?......and thay now it!

saved me on my front yok on my t-case rebuild......wondered if it would have been cheaper to have bought a new one........then i price one!!
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Old Oct 7, 2006 | 01:09 PM
  #17  
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Originally Posted by G1625S
I speedie-sleeved mine, just to be safe. The silly sleeve was more than the seal
Where do I get this sleeve?
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Old Oct 7, 2006 | 02:04 PM
  #18  
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From: port crane, NY
I get all my stuff from the local Fleet Pride. Any place with a book that lists the seal should also have the sleeve listed.
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Old Oct 7, 2006 | 02:21 PM
  #19  
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From: WY
For the t-case i got it from NAPA had to give them the dimension of the seal surfice, and thay had it in stock
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 06:35 PM
  #20  
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From: Harrison Arkansas
Flash :

I don't have a tranny jack or a lift so will have to have the tranny pulled. My question is when the tranny is out can the rear engine seal be replaced? Don't need one now but I thought while the tranny was out it would be a good time to change it.

Charliex25
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 06:46 PM
  #21  
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Originally Posted by G1625S
I speedie-sleeved mine, just to be safe. The silly sleeve was more than the seal
How do you get the sleeve on, does the rear crank flange unbolt?
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 06:46 PM
  #22  
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From: left & wet; coast, that is...
Charlie,

Yes, do it while the trans is out. Also, check your flexplate for cracks. You may want to replace that as well if it is the original even if it isn't cracked, since they are prone to failure.
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 06:50 PM
  #23  
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From: left & wet; coast, that is...
Mark,

You need to remove the seal housing to get to the crank snout. The sleeve then slides directly over the end of the crank and creates a new seal surface. You will also need to use loctite to secure it to the crank. It should come with an installation tool to drive it on, but I'm not positive if they all do. My truck has 245K and the crank looked like new, so I didn't need to sleeve mine.
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 06:57 PM
  #24  
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Originally Posted by Firstgenner
Mark,

You need to remove the seal housing to get to the crank snout. The sleeve then slides directly over the end of the crank and creates a new seal surface. You will also need to use loctite to secure it to the crank. It should come with an installation tool to drive it on, but I'm not positive if they all do. My truck has 245K and the crank looked like new, so I didn't need to sleeve mine.
I've never seen a crank with a removable rear flange. That's pretty cool....
I'm guessing mine will be good because it's had regular oil and filter changes since new, but I want to be prepared....
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 07:41 PM
  #25  
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From: Evans ,colorado
Well crap.. I did'nt know they made a sleave for the rear main. When i did mine last year it had a small pit in one spot. I took a little 320 sand paper to it and then drove the seal in a little further than I was supposed to. I have about 15k on it since and sofar no leaks, I would of done the sleave but the napa that had the main instock did not list one. If it starts to leak I should make that parts guy pull the trans back out for me
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 09:59 PM
  #26  
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From: WY
Originally Posted by charliex25
Flash :

I don't have a tranny jack or a lift so will have to have the tranny pulled. My question is when the tranny is out can the rear engine seal be replaced? Don't need one now but I thought while the tranny was out it would be a good time to change it.

Charliex25
when the tranny is out, take a good look at the seal, if there is any seepage i would replace it while your there......if it is still oil free then pass......they or pricey!!!

when i did my clutch i past, because mine was dry(with 200,000 miles on it!)

Originally Posted by mhuppertz
I've never seen a crank with a removable rear flange. That's pretty cool....
I'm guessing mine will be good because it's had regular oil and filter changes since new, but I want to be prepared....
It's actually a "seal housing" that is bolted to the back of the block, over the crank.
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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 09:32 AM
  #27  
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From: Cape Girardeau MO
NAPA doesnt carry the speedi sleeve, but CUmmins does. I think it is about $75 for the seal and sleeve. Not bad, considering the sleeve is almost $50.

I'd also HIGHLY suggest replacing the cam plug while you have it all out. I replaced a RMS one time, didnt even think to check the cam plug, but had to pull it all apart again and replace the cam plug after I started leaking a qt every 400mi.

Getting the tranny out is the hard part. if you dont have a tranny jack, try a floor jack with a ratchet strap to secure it. I actually prefer it that way -more wiggle room on install

Daniel
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 04:11 PM
  #28  
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From: Murritea CA
what are all the torque specs. iv gotta do mine real soon
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