I got a lot of leaks fixed, but now I have a new one, and I'm afraid it's the rear main.
Can I "sneaky pete" a new one in there?

 

Not sure what you mean by sneak one in there. If pulling the tranny can be done sneekly then yup you can sneek on in there.

 

Nope you need to pull the tranny. It's a one piece seal. I did mine took abour 8 hours.

Greg

 

Ahhh I feel your pain. My RMS is also leaking, infact it`s been leaking since I got the truck, and now I know why . I recently had the starter out to put in new contacts and when I pulled it down...LO and BEHOLD what looks like about 1/2 of the RMS lip was hanging off the starter nose...grrr. At least now I know with 95% certainty that it`s the RMS and not the cam plug leaking, altho I`ll re-seal that too when I do the job.

 

I'm just hoping that it's not going because the thrust surface is wearing away. Don't get me wrong, this is what I deserve for the way I sometimes drive the poor beast, but the thought of doing the mains makes me break out in a sweat! I haven't noticed any funky belt wear, so maybe I am OK still... praying!!!

If I have to pull the trans I might as well do the clutch, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing while I have her apart. I just heard my bank account make a big sucking sound!

 

I guess our trucks are just getting old, mine started leaking this spring also but I am waiting for cooler weather to fix it if we ever get cooler weather. I put about 10,000 miles on it this summer towing my trailer and it never got any worse so I figure it will wait a few more weeks for this heat to break.

 

I guess so. My truck was completely dry when I bought it, and stayed that way for quite a while. It's kind of a bummer to have it leak after I bragged about how tight the Cummins was to all the Ferd guys... course their trucks all cavitated a long time ago and had to be rebuilt!!!!

 

FYI - as I recall the rear main seal goes in *dry* (right?) - in case you do it yourself.

 

Dry installation is correct...I just did mine and cleaned the crank hub with acetone to remove any trace of oil, grease or dirt prior to installing the seal. The seal is Teflon and should not be installed with any type of lubricant, as opposed to your more common rubber seals.

 

Glad to know that, because I would have cleaned the area with lacquer thinner and glued the seal in with Ultra Copper.

 

Mark,

I was referring to the crank hub and not the seal housing, in case we have our wires crossed on what should be "dry". The sealing area on the crank itself must be dry as well as the lip of the seal that rides on the crank. Sorry if it sounds confusing.

 

To maybe clairify it better...........the seal need to be dry to create the sealing effect by burnising(actualy slightly melting the lip of the seal from the friction of the seal and crank.) this make a more perfect surfice to keep oil in,and being teflon, is kind of a lubicant(like the eggs that just slide right out of a non stick pan.....teflon pan)

I know this seam vary strange but it works!!!!

If you fill the need to add sealnt to the metal shell of the seal.....it wouldn't hurt!!!!!

 

Thanks Flash, that is exactly the kind of info I love (and need).

 

NO prob glad to be able to help!!

 

I speedie-sleeved mine, just to be safe. The silly sleeve was more than the seal