Ok well im trying to figure out wether i should buy a ladder link bar kit or buy the 4 Link kit. Which one would work best for a daily driven 2wd truck that tows, hits the drag strip and hooks to the sled every once in a while?

Ladder bars: 33" bars made out of 1"od .156" wall tubing with 3/4 forged ends. 219.99 for the kit. Comes with everything i need!!

4 Link: 1"ob .156" wall with seamless tubing and permantly mounted adjusting nuts. 212.99.

What do you all think i should do?

 

Got a link to the kit so we could look at it?

 

Ladder bars sound a little short but yeah post a link or pics.

 

x2. If you want them to be effective the rule is 48" minimum for ladder bars, 60" is ideal.

 

Yeah mine are 48" long right now, which is about the same length and angle as my driveshaft which they say to do. I think I'm gonna go with a different setup and make a longer single bar setup though

 

ive done quite a bit off off road link setups...

i would stay clear of any $200 kit

the last 3 link setup i did in my s10 cost $1200 in joints(rod ends)
plus 1.75 3/8 wall dom and coils etc.etc...
running just bushings is mickey mouse.
dont forget about your diff travel

i would do a triangulted 4 link you dont need a panhard and then run double conveluted airbags IF i did 4 link

but a single traction bar off the top of the diff with a shackle is the quickest set-up..

and the length of the tracktion bars helps with leverage and will help plant the rear tires.too much and your roll(front to back) axis is screwed up and you will unload the rear tires on acceleration ..

way more too this by the way..

 

^^thats pretty sweet even tho its a s-10... i likey!!

 

These are some of the cheapest out there that are still solid, well-made, and proven on the pulling circuits.

http://www.landlproducts.com/details...=0&ItemID=1147

 

I built some pretty much exactly like that except they are 48" long and mine have a shackle and a better mount to the axle that is welded for under $50.

 

the shackle is the key,allow diff travel

 

this works good and is cheap

 

Well i cant find the exact Ladder link bar kit im looking at in the Jegs Mag but i did find the 4 link and the anti roll stuff that seemed interesting too.
4 link: http://www.jegs.com/i/Competition+En.../2017/10002/-1
Anti Roll: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...hTerm=55040096

Cant really find the Ladder link set up tho. I can get the parts tho. What size tubing and heim joint ends does everybody suggest i use. Doing the susp build on a serious budget lol

 

Here is how I did mine, i built them about 2 years ago and they've done the job fine. If I remember right they are 48" long and the back piece is about 10" tall, and it is made out of .120" tubing, which was the thicker one of the two tubings I could have got, and its held up fine. I bought some heim ends from a tractor implement store (parts for a 3 pt. hitch) and found two nuts that fit them, so I welded one nut to the ladder bar and used the other one as a jam nut so I could adjust them a little. I made the shackle that mounts to the frame so they don't bind, pretty simple really. I got a 3.5 or 4" (can't exactly remember size) heavier walled pipe that fit over the axle snug, then cut it in half and welded tabs on the top and bottom and drilled two holes in them to put bolts through so they could bolt together. I then welded the back half to the axle then bolted the bar to that piece so they are solid to the axle but yet I can still remove them if i need. I figured using U-bolts to mount to the axle like the L&L product's ones, that the axle would still rotate inside the U-bolts unless you welded them to the axle but then they wouldn't be as strong as this.


The shackle

axle mount

These pics were taken when I first put them on, so the back piece is now welded to the axle.

I'm not saying these bars are better than whats out there, but you can definately build some that are better made for a lot less money. Like I said, I have less than $50 into this setup even though I got a pretty good discount on the metal through school. These have worked great for me even though I'm gonna be making a longer single bar set up for the rear this time and use about 1 1/2" solid bar and drill and tap the ends for heim joints and mount it to the bottom of the Lift block/U-bolt plate. Then I might try and use these ladder bars I got and figure out how to mount them on the front or come up with another design.