KDP Questions
#1
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KDP Questions
Hey all,
I removed the timing case cover to check and tab the KDP. I have some observations/questions.
1. The dowel pin appers to be fine.
2. The pictures online are different from my timing case cover. They must be from a later truck? Mine has some extra metal between the bolt and the pin so the $1 dealer tab won't work without case modifcation?
3. A few inches above the bolt that usually holds the tab, is there supposed to be another bolt? I have a bit of stubble there that looks like it might have had a bolt head at one time. The case shows what looks like the washer indent from the wide bolt head.
4. To "kill" KDP should I modify the case to use the dealer part by removing that thin extra metal around the pin? Or should I use a coathanger or other piece of thick steel to fit the case? Or should I do nothing at all - it hasn't moved in 216Kmi it isn't likely to move anytime soon?
Thanks,
Brian
I removed the timing case cover to check and tab the KDP. I have some observations/questions.
1. The dowel pin appers to be fine.
2. The pictures online are different from my timing case cover. They must be from a later truck? Mine has some extra metal between the bolt and the pin so the $1 dealer tab won't work without case modifcation?
3. A few inches above the bolt that usually holds the tab, is there supposed to be another bolt? I have a bit of stubble there that looks like it might have had a bolt head at one time. The case shows what looks like the washer indent from the wide bolt head.
4. To "kill" KDP should I modify the case to use the dealer part by removing that thin extra metal around the pin? Or should I use a coathanger or other piece of thick steel to fit the case? Or should I do nothing at all - it hasn't moved in 216Kmi it isn't likely to move anytime soon?
Thanks,
Brian
#2
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I recently killed the kdp in a 96 and as you have already noticed the 1st gen case has more material in that area. Look in my gallery at the one I did, the pin sits flush with the case, it was 3/16" out, my 1st gens sit sub flush.
I peened the mine with a hammer and a punch. Other guys on here have a piece of heavy wire or coat hanger bent to hold it in.
G1625S has some nice pictures of "tabbing" a 1st gen kdp.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...0&ppuser=27190
As for you mystery bolt, I'm out of ideas, I would think if it dropped you should see some damage somewhere.
I peened the mine with a hammer and a punch. Other guys on here have a piece of heavy wire or coat hanger bent to hold it in.
G1625S has some nice pictures of "tabbing" a 1st gen kdp.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...0&ppuser=27190
As for you mystery bolt, I'm out of ideas, I would think if it dropped you should see some damage somewhere.
#3
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I think the "mystery bolt" is still in place minus the bolt head.
I would like to know if there is supposed to be a bolt about 3" above the bolt that people use to help kill the KDP?
Thanks for the extra photo information.
I would like to know if there is supposed to be a bolt about 3" above the bolt that people use to help kill the KDP?
Thanks for the extra photo information.
#5
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I used a coathanger I got from my dry cleaning. Anybody see this method fail? Looks similar to G1625S's method but maybe my coathanger is a little thinner.
Thanks,
Brian
Thanks,
Brian
#6
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I tell ya, once it was done, I looked twice and thought it looked safer when I started, but with a little thread locker on the threads, I sleep well at night.
greg
greg
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Now that I am trying to put the pump gear back on, I am having some difficulties. It seems that the pump drive is under some tension and when the gear is removed, it moves a little. How is one supposed to rotate the gear/pump drive to correctly fit the cam gear correctly? Is engine rotation the way to do it, or is there a trick I am missing?
Thanks,
Brian
Thanks,
Brian
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