Hey all,

I removed the timing case cover to check and tab the KDP. I have some observations/questions.

1. The dowel pin appers to be fine.

2. The pictures online are different from my timing case cover. They must be from a later truck? Mine has some extra metal between the bolt and the pin so the $1 dealer tab won't work without case modifcation?

3. A few inches above the bolt that usually holds the tab, is there supposed to be another bolt? I have a bit of stubble there that looks like it might have had a bolt head at one time. The case shows what looks like the washer indent from the wide bolt head.

4. To "kill" KDP should I modify the case to use the dealer part by removing that thin extra metal around the pin? Or should I use a coathanger or other piece of thick steel to fit the case? Or should I do nothing at all - it hasn't moved in 216Kmi it isn't likely to move anytime soon?

Thanks,
Brian

 

I recently killed the kdp in a 96 and as you have already noticed the 1st gen case has more material in that area. Look in my gallery at the one I did, the pin sits flush with the case, it was 3/16" out, my 1st gens sit sub flush.

I peened the mine with a hammer and a punch. Other guys on here have a piece of heavy wire or coat hanger bent to hold it in.

G1625S has some nice pictures of "tabbing" a 1st gen kdp.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...0&ppuser=27190

As for you mystery bolt, I'm out of ideas, I would think if it dropped you should see some damage somewhere.

 

I think the "mystery bolt" is still in place minus the bolt head.

I would like to know if there is supposed to be a bolt about 3" above the bolt that people use to help kill the KDP?

Thanks for the extra photo information.

 

You could remove the metal for the tab to fit or just peen the hole its the fastest way and will never let the pin out

 

I used a coathanger I got from my dry cleaning. Anybody see this method fail? Looks similar to G1625S's method but maybe my coathanger is a little thinner.

Thanks,
Brian

 

I tell ya, once it was done, I looked twice and thought it looked safer when I started, but with a little thread locker on the threads, I sleep well at night.
greg

 

Now that I am trying to put the pump gear back on, I am having some difficulties. It seems that the pump drive is under some tension and when the gear is removed, it moves a little. How is one supposed to rotate the gear/pump drive to correctly fit the cam gear correctly? Is engine rotation the way to do it, or is there a trick I am missing?

Thanks,
Brian