A few days ago, I noticed that the spring around the throttle shaft was wet with Diesel. Today, on the way home, the whole throttle assembly was soaked and dripping fuel. Nothing else was wet, so I'm guessing that it's pretty safe to assume that the O-ring on the throttle shaft is shot.(?)
I've pulled the pump and put it back on once before but never been inside of it.
I looked through the stickies and did some YouTube'n and to me it looks like I can get at it without removing the pump. Is that right? It even looks like I could pull the top off without even touching the AFC.
Any advice from you VE wizards out there would be much appreciated.
This didn't come up a the best time for me but I'm kind of looking forward to trying a little brain surgery and seeing how this part of my engine works.

-Niemand

 

Order a new seal AND new shaft bushing. The original bushings were some sort of brass or bronze, and wore out. The new replacements are steel. Bushing is pressed into the cover with your favorite fuel resistant locking sealant.

If you are clean and careful, you can r&r the pump top with the pump in the truck. I recall a post in the stickies covering this. The hard part is using a loop of wire to pull the pivot lever (whose position is adjusted by the fuel screw) forward to clear the fuel screw when you reinstall the cover. You should also note that there is a guide sleeve around one of the screws to align the cover.

If your pump is advanced hard against the head, I would take the time to pull it away from the head before starting the cover R&R to give yourself more room to work. (And then put it back to your desired timing mark when done.)

It isn't too hard a job.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm trying to locate a bushing right now. I wasn't aware that there even was a bushing there so thanks for the heads-up.
Is it a 100% no-brainer thing that you should change that bushing anytime you're that far into the pump, or are you just saying that I should take advantage of the opportunity to upgrade it?
This pump was a fresh reman when I bought the truck about 150,000 miles ago.
I will also take suggestions on fuel resistant locking sealants, if you have any.

-Niemand

 

For this, I would use loctite 641 or the equivalent.

In the few pumps I have worked on that had a leaking accelerator shaft, the bushing was an old-style soft bushing that had worn out. If the pump was rebuilt 150,000 miles ago, I wouldn't expect the shaft to be leaking, but, you never know, it could just be a bad o-ring, or it is possible that they did not replace the bushing as part of the rebuild, and it needs to be replaced now. It is remotely possible that you will need to replace the shaft also, I would definitely inspect it when you have things apart, but I wouldn't necessarily buy one just to have it on hand.

 

Thanks. That's exactly what I needed to know. I should have a day to tear into it this coming weekend.

-Niemand Besonderes

 

Got it back together with new throttle shaft bushing and O-ring. Everything went back right the first time! That's never happened. The top cover did have a steel shaft bushing in it from when it was re-manufactured but I could see obvious wear inside of it where the old O-ring sat so, I guess they're not a perfect upgrade from the brass bushings.
Removing the fuel screw before pulling the top, and screwing it back in after replacing the top, allowed me to avoid having to clear the pivot lever like you warned about.
Thanks for your help, Alec.

-Niemand